GeneralDisorder

Things to look for: An entirely different platform. Seriously? You can't be serious? You want to get stuck in the woods and starve to death? LoL GD

Yes it should fully seat. GD

Oil pressure wouldn't affect the main and cam seals. Subaru's run high oil pressure anyway. GD

We use NOK or Subaru OEM seals and have never had one pop out. One dirty trick I have used on seals is to coat the OD of the seal in loctite 248. You will completely F*uck the next guy though as the rubber on the seal will come apart before the loctite lets go. Real mess to clean up. GD

The T6 is fine. We don't recommend any less than a 40 weight. T6 will do. GD

Have a machine shop that knows Subaru engines assemble it. Assembly is where most of the mistakes get made. GD

No part of this is a "bolt in". It requires significant custom work. This isn't an LS swap - no one makes much of anything to help you. The EJ trans will require a completely custom transmission cradle and linkage. If you aren't good with electrical and welding I wouldn't attempt it. GD

Sounds like get another block. Don't attempt to split it and replace the bearings. Without a main-line hone (difficult to even find a machinist that's capable) that's a waste of time on a high mileage block and the potential to screw it up is extremely high. The first half a dozen you build are likely to fail or have extremely limited life spans. Subaru's are not forgiving about rod cap alignment, block half alignment, and oil clearances. If you are not familiar with reading measuring tools down to a couple tenths and have said tools on hand - it's not going to be worth the effort. GD

It's hard to make any suggestions without seeing it. If it's suspect then find another short block. GD

We fill the oil through the discharge port on the bottom of the oil pump right before startup. As in the engine is fully assembled and installed. GD

The oil pump isn't going to suck anything at hand crank speeds. And all the filters have anti-drain back valves so wouldn't work anyway. The system is only designed to flow in one direction. I don't get what the problem is with just using the right port? GD

That doesn't prime the filter. Have to go through the oil pump discharge port to do it right. GD

The OEM 770 or 642 gaskets. OE for the 251 engine was the 633 - that's the one that fails, not the 770/642 for the turbo engines. GD

We use a pressurized tank of oil and an adapter custom made for the oil pump discharge port to fill the engine with oil at 90 psi. We put all 5 quarts in them this way. We hand crank them while they are filling. You can try cranking it with the crankshaft sensor disconnected, but unless the oil pump is packed with assembly lube it probably wont prime. You would likely be fine to just start it and observe the oil pressure light. But we don't take that risk on the high dollar engines we build. GD

They are supposed to have a double roll pin. I generally knock them out together. GD

'17 in my shop right now with a rod knock. 69k miles. Just did a '16 Forester that had a broken valve spring at 120k. Nothing else wrong just a broken intake valve spring. GD

Here in the US it is illegal to deny warranty for not using the dealer service department or parts. Subaru oil and filters are garbage BTW. GD

Yes you can drive out the pin. They all leak from the shift shaft seal. They start leaking there as soon as you sign the papers. They are a pain to replace and will just leak again in about.... 3 miles. I've seen 2019 STI's with less than 5k miles and the shift shaft seal already leaking. It's pretty much a waste of effort. GD

There is absolutely nothing made for that application. People use all kinds of things - none of which are particularly a good idea from the standpoint of the MAF. Generally fine if it's a speed density setup though. GD

Likely a bad slave cylinder. You can try bleeding the air out. GD

If you want to use that WRX as a donor, you need at least a first gen (1990 - 1994) Legacy. The Loyale is not compatible and the EJ20T will tear it in half like Jesse Ventura with a phone book. GD

Haven't been impressed with the Aeromotive stuff of late. Radium Engineering is my choice. GD

Also no sales tax down here. That 6.5% would cover the gas. GD

We do the HG's, timing, and radiator/hoses for $2750 Axles - there's choices but I prefer to use new OEM axles - they tend to be around $400 each. I can get Chinese one's that aren't terrible for half the price but you don't get the longevity out of them. If we were doing a HG replacement I would only charge one hour for install of both. GD

The sensor is accessible. You'll have to check around at the dealer parts department, parts.subaru.com, and do some googling. I don't remember specifically which years. I know it's been covered on other threads in various forums. GD