GeneralDisorder

Ohm out the CTS and compare to book specs. No reason to throw parts at the problem - just test it first. GD

An interesting narative - however there is no "air pump" on an EA81 so I'm not sure what you are talking about.... if you are talking about the Air Injection System then replacing the reed valve assembly and the silencer would cost a considerably larger amount than $12 unless you got the parts used.... So what is it you are talking about? GD

As mentioned you risk massive damage to a turbo engine if you try some kind of stop leak additive. The passages inside the turbo are small, as are the piston oil squirters, etc. That stuff might treat those like a leak and just stop them from working. Possible severe damage could result. She needs to find a turbo-charged friendly mechanic that knows this stuff. GD

No special tools required. You have compressed and pinned the tensioner right? Leave the bolts loose that hold it to it's bracket. Line up everything but leave OFF the cogged idler and the bottom smooth idler. Install the belt and hold tension on it where the cogged idler would be. Once you get it on and it's all lined up install the cogged idler and then the bottom smooth idler. Push the tensioner over to the right with a flat-blade screwdriver and tighten the bolts. Then pull the pin. Rotated the engine two revs by hand and check that the marks align again on the pulley's. Whole process takes about 45 seconds. GD

Yeah I would really like to figure out what's up with that..... You never replaced any injectors, etc? How long did you track these repairs afterwards - I'm curious to know if you are aware of the mileage on them since the repair..... Would you replace the injectors? Anyone else? I don't want to replace the injectors if I don't have to - I guess it comes down to checking the clearance and seeing if the lash has closed up and is holding them open. If that's the case then I can probably be safe to assume it's not the injectors.... GD

Are you sure it wasn't not hitting the throttle stop because the fast-idle cam on the choke is engaged? (was it still cold when you checked this?)..... Because it doesn't make sense for it to be completely closed, have the idle mixture screw run all the way in till it seats and still have it run at 800 RPM. It should die when it's setup like that unless there is SERIOUS problems with the throttle shaft/butterfly adjustment, etc. GD

You can removal all the Purge and EGR hardware and it will not affect engine operation even if you don't add the resistor to take care of the code. Your problem is associated with your idle air controller (IAC) and you should replace that with one from a junk yard car - should take care of the idling issues. 200k is really not that high for an EA82..... sadly with regular oil changes the long block on these engines is typically good for 300k or more. Other stuff may cause you problems and you might need a head gasket replaced along the way (typical) but they are stubbornly difficult to outright kill. Thus why so many are still on the road. GD

You should always include a fuse when you run anything off the positive battery terminal. It's just a fire-hazard precaution in case of a short. GD

You have serious tuning problems if the idle mixture screw was all the way in and it was still running. That means the idle circuit was completely shut off and the throttle stop has been turned up to compensate. You need to back off the throttle stop, get it running on the idle circuit, and adjust the timing and idle speed till you get it to about 700 RPM on the idle circuit. Fix any vacuum leaks, insure the EGR is working, go through the ignition system, etc..... Then you will likely have to replace the cat - it's probably not even there anymore. Pretty common for them to break up and end up as chunks or just dust. GD

First you need to verify your temp gauge is even accurate. They are notoriously not. You know nothing yet and jumping right to replacing the radiator is a huge mistake. GD

Yep - that's the first thing I would do. Check for vacuum leaks. GD

One of the last great "learner's" cars IMO. In many ways it's actually simpler than my '69 GMC Truck. Frankly I consider myself very lucky to have owned an EA81 as one of my first cars (that wasn't borrowed from the parents). I learned a lot out of neccesity and though I wasn't as accutely aware of it at the time as I am now - the EA81 saved me a lot of headache's through being a very simple and forgiving machine. GD

Generally I've seen differences in exhaust valve color on cylinders that were exposed to some quantity of coolant - this also will often "steam clean" the carbon from the chamber and piston top. Typically the change in color is not an indication that the valve is actually bad or in need of replacement. Just that there was something wrong with the chemistry in that cylinder. I would definitely lap the exhaust valves at the very least and reset the clearances. I've seen enough exhaust valve problems that this is just good sense IMO. The last set of heads I had redone the shop had to replace about 4 of the valves and he said they were all "significantly" worn on the face and seat. That engine had 200k on it. GD

I assumed it was because there is a possibility that the hole pointed out by the arrow is not blind and may be open to the crankcase or an oil gallery. The loctite is to keep engine oil from causing issues with, or leaking out of, the threads. GD

No problem - get back to us on what you find. EA81's are very simple so this shouldn't be hard to figure out. GD

Sounds like you have a rough idle with maybe some occasional missing going on? First we will need to know model, year, carbed/FI, etc. Otherwise the only thing I can think of that's common to all of them would be a vacuum leak. That will cause a rough idle and missing. GD

Check all your fuses to start with. Actually put your hand on the pump while someone cranks the engine over. It should be pretty obvious if it's running or not. First thing is to check for voltage at the pump connector while cranking. If that's good and the pump doesn't run then you have found an issue. If you have no voltage then start checking the fuel pump control unit located above the hood release handle bracket at your left knee. It needs ignition switched voltage, tach signal, ground, and then feeds power to the pump and some of them also run the choke. GD

I have seen it, but not a ton on the drum shoes. I HAVE seen pad material delaminating from the backing plate. I just did rear brakes on an '02 Honda Odyssey and one of the pads had nothing but the backing plate lett. All the others were 30% or better and the calipers were fine. My analysis was that the pad material just came loose from the backing. GD

If the turbo had actually failed it would be belching blue smoke out the exhaust - is that the case? They do not leak externally...... GD

As I said - learning experience it's fine. But don't expect it to be a great deal from a price standpoint - syncros and bearings are VERY expensive for these things. Typically only a few (the one's needed) are replaced and new seals fitted. Otherwise the cost is prohibitive. They are simple transmissions. Some shafts, gears, bearings, and syncro's. Nothing that anyone with a press and some hand tools couldn't tackle. You don't need a "lab" but it's nice to have lots of toys all the same. Though frankly I feel that having all that stuff just teaches people they need a bunch of special tools for each and every operation - when in reality they just need a little common sense. GD

What is it with you and three year old threads dude? Most of these people don't hang around here much anymore..... Why not just start a thread and ask your question? Bad form. GD

Perhaps they also have "instructionals" (VHS ) for how to avoid useless bumping of posts that have not been active for over three YEARS GD

Interesting. I see what you are saying. Most valve looseness is due to wear in the valve train - the adjustment's don't back off but the cam and it's follower do wear. That is minimal in a roller-rocker system though so it could be the case that the adjustment *doesn't change* appreciably and in doing so the tollerance is taken up by the valve seat wearing, the lash reaching a zero point and then further wear creates an actual gap between the valve and the seat. This is all speculation though. I'll actually take measurements when I get it apart and see what, if any, changes are present in the valve lash. GD

Yes it will be a 4.111 - all the 90 to 94's are 4.111. You could also use a newer Outback tranny - 97 to 99 - typically they are more expensive but if you happen opon one..... GD

Change nothing other than the muffler. The rest is not a significant restriction. Personally I like the low-buck method - cut the muffler off and bend a new section of pipe to replace it. Not actually that loud with no muffler. Or a cherry-bomb works too. GD