GeneralDisorder

If two different mechanic's have said the turbo is going out then there might indeed be something to it. Mostly you should check inside the intake piping from the turbo to the inlet. If there is lots of oil present here then that would indicate a possible turbo seal issue. A good used VF11 goes for about $100 or less. With some relatively simple modifications (inlet and outlet piping - no exhaust mods) a TD04 can be fitted in it's place and these are very common in the used market as they are often removed from WRX's to install something else. Again $100 or less will buy a good used unit. I'm sure you know some board members in the area that can change out a turbo for a couple hundred right? The seal replacement for $700 is also rediculous. That's a timing belt job with a cam seal replacement. Something that could again be accomplished by a board member in the area for well under $500 even if you replaced everything t-belt related. If she wants to drive to Portland I'll do the work GD

It fits the EA81 console without any ugly adaptors. That's why we use them. It sounds fine for my purposes. GD

Yeah - the head surface is typically flatter than the exhaust flange so that's how I install them as well. That's my logic anyway though I don't know the official policy on those..... I've never had an issue installing them that way. GD

If you like the styleing and don't mind an engine swap - they are ripe for installing an EJ22 (2.2 non turbo). With an adaptor plate and drilled flywheel they bolt righ up and give you a 20 HP increase with NO turbo. . Plus being that the RX's are already setup for fuel injection you don't even have to change the fuel pump or worry about the tank not being baffled, etc. It works out nicely as a swap platform. But otherwise - stear way clear of that engine. GD

Being it's aluminium you can just use a flat peice of glass (or wood if you choose carefully), wrap some 120 grit wet/dry paper over it and with WD40 as lubricant you can "resurface" that yourself. But I think the major problem is not the pitting - it's that your pipe isn't fitting right. You shouldn't have to force anything. That's probably the source of your sealing problem much more than the pitting. GD

They get passed around like a fat blunt.... The EA82T's are hideous engines. You don't want one. Do some searches here on the board of "EA82T", etc. You especially don't want an '85/'86 RX sedan. That will have the old flapper-MAF fuel/ignition system which is a pain to work on and parts are rare. Take it from the ad - the guy is selling that POS because it's cracked a head (not at all uncommon with that engine) and he's tired of the foolishness surrounding that engine. Do yourself a favor and buy a nice 90 to 94 Legacy. Trust me you will love it. If you want something older find an EA81 sedan - or even an EA82 sedan with the 5 speed D/R. Anything but the EA82 Turbo. You will just hate it if you buy it and you'll be the next guy with a posting like that on craigslist. GD

If it's not leaking then don't touch it. First you need to find a shop that's willing to replace it (lots won't touch it because it's a pop-in style) and then you will have to get a new gasket and probably new chrome as well. It's a messy, nasty job. But as I said if it's not a horrible crack and it's not leaking - don't touch it. The chances of having some kind of issue if you mess with it are high. GD

The booster could fail eventually from the brake fluid eating the diaphram, etc. Replacing them as a set would be wise since the best opportunity to get bolts loose is going to be the one's inside the car that attach the booster to the firewall and pedal assembly - this avoids that half of the "rust" equation and then you just have to deal with the brake lines. If there is a lot of rust there then there might be some cutting/flaring of brake line to accomidate the new MC but not too bad. The good news is that used boosters are a good option here since they almost never fail (extremely rare). If your specific case both the leakage into the booster and the rust on the MC bolts both are good reasons to replace it. Still - find a used one from a west coast car without the rust. Post in the wanted section or use www.car-part.com to get one from a yard without the rust. The MC's are cheap - get one from www.rockauto.com If her brother can do it - and I don't see why he shouldn't be able to - this should cost no more than $100 to $150 in parts if you buy a new MC and a used booster. GD

Exhaust leak would not be the head gasket - that would be the exhaust manifold gasket.... they are about $6 to $8 at the dealer. Surfaceing is not typically done here but you can hit the head and header flange with a wire wheel (not too stiff on the head side) to remove carbon and such. A new gasket should seal it up and that's a pretty simple fix - just drop the header down. GD

Seems to be just simple RPM related with the PS. Getting slightly louder as the revs increase. Starts at about 3800 and goes up from there. Something to check anyway.... GD

Glass 5MT transmission Great for us mechanic's that just need the shell . They wash and wax them, blow them up, then I get them . GD

I've also seen this exact same scenario with bad power steering pumps. I just replaced one on a '99 OBW that would whine at above 4 grand - sounded like a faint timing belt idler bearing noise or a "ghost turbo" like Gloyale mentioned. Now I just bought a '97 with the same thing going on. Both of these have leaking PS pumps (to varrying degree's) though I don't imagine that's a neccesity for the noise. In both cases the operation of the PS is unaffected - just noisy. GD

No problem - that thing totally deserves a Weber and I'm glad you got realistic and went with this DL. It's completely perfect for what you want/need at this stage of your life. Not too fast, not a cop magnet, and excelent mileage/reliability. If only other young people your age were gifted with that much foresight . The Weber makes a fabulous addition to the EA81/FWD 5 speed combo. It will be much quicker and fun to drive. But of course compared to everyone else on the road you will still be slow so you won't attract much attention from the constabulary. GD

It could, yes. But removing the quarter is easy enough when/if you need to go through DEQ and here they do an idle and 2500 RPM test with no dyno run so the backfireing wouldn't be an issue for the test. Then just replace the quarter and drive on for another two years..... Also - installing a new, $69, ebay 3-way catalytic converter would take care of the emissions and you could just remove the entire ASV system as the modern cats don't even need it. GD

When you have the money (give it $400 at least) PM me and I'll tell you EXACTLY what to buy for the Weber swap. Personally I like doing them with a manual choke but that's up to you..... Then you give me $100 and I'll install it (you can help) and it will be correct. GD

Gasket scraper or single-edge razor blade. Then finsh with a soft wire wheel in a die grinder, etc. GD

On the contrary - that's a common thing to see on american stuff - especially vans and trucks. And Subaru has done similar things before - on the EA81's there are access holes to remove the rocker assembly bolts. It's a solid and workable feature that I agree should have been included. GD

The ASV works at all times - it supplies fresh air from the air filter to the exhaust stream (via a reed valve that is opened by the exhaust pulses) in order to improve catalyst effeciency. Newer style catalysts no longer need this extra oxygen to work properly. The ASV is Subaru's equivelent to a smog pump. Same concept. GD

Follow the metal tube from under the head to the ASV valve. Unscrew it from the valve, slip a quarter in the valve and thread the pipe back on. All your backfireing will vanish for $0.50 (do both sides). GD

No - not everything is this expensive. Service parts for a lot of the older american stuff is dirt cheap. I'm always amazed how cheap parts for my '69 GMC truck are. $300 for a Legacy heater core. The '69 GMC is $39.95 I suppose it's just because they don't sell a lot of syncro's and bearings for Subaru transaxles. Not a lot of demand for them so the cost stays up there. That and everyone down the line has to make a profit - Jatco, Subaru, SOA, Dealership, etc, etc. If some company here in the states found a large enough market for these parts and marketed them through local suppliers the cost would be greatly reduced I would imagine. GD

How can you say it's not too bad when you yarded out the entire drivetrain for an SBC? Mitsu's are junk mechanically and electrically. Period. You should know this having been that deep in one. GD

The AAV does nothing to prevent backfireing. That's not it's job. What? No. The ASV's job is to supply fresh oxygen for the catalyst. In conjunction with exhaust leaks it is very often the CAUSE of backfiring. In no way does it prevent same. No. Again. Durring a shift the throttle slams closed and the engine (taching several K) pulls fuel from the carb primaries due to high manifold vacuum under the throttle plates - causing a RICH condition. This exra fuel is mixed with fresh oxygen from leaks/ASV supply and ignites downstream in or near the muffler. Often blowing holes in the muffler in the process. The ASV just supplies an extra quantity of fresh air and thus oxygen. Cutting off this supply is typically enough to stop backfiring on EA's. Stick a quarter in the pipe that runs from the head to the ASV valve. Even with a leaky exhaust this will generally fix the problem and it's cheaper than fixing all the exhaust leaks. GD

The Isuzu Pup/Chevy Luv are NOT the same as the Mitsu MM/Dodge D50. They do both use the 6x5.5" pattern though. Completely different trucks though - the Mitsu/Dodge is a huge POS while the Isuzu's were really decent trucks - especially the Diesel's. GD

The backfire is a result of exhaust leaks. Plugging the ASV system will help or you can fix the leaks. Actual HP increase from the weber is minimal. It feels faster because the off idle torque is improved and acceleration due to the progressive linkage instead of the vacuum secondary of the hitach. GD

I wouldn't blame you for replacing the radio. Just do a nice job and use something like the Dual XR4110 that I and a few other's have used. It's worth it to do that but do it RIGHT. No hack job crap. GD