GeneralDisorder

I've seen EJ22's blow head gaskets and given that the engine is going to be accesible (unbolted from the tranny), it's a trivial matter to throw in new head gaskets and gives an opportunity to inspect the cylinders, etc. In my opinion it would be silly not to include the head gaskets in a reseal. A compression check would show you nothing. A head gasket leak small enough to allow it to run would not show on the gauge. A leak-down *might* show it but it might equally not as the leak might only open at operating temp. The only sensible course is to remove the heads and inspect. Then go from there. GD

Absolutely - boot kits are about $25 per axle. Do them both and drive on. That's what he should do. Otherwise he should go to the dealer and get reman axles if they can get them. GD

Yes - it should be made clear to him that he's throwing away $200 axles in favor of $59 chinese garbage. While there is a time and a place for $59 chinese axles, it doesn't sound as if his blown inner boot that he only "noticed" after lifting the hood is the right choice. GD

1. I think 200 HP is too much for a slightly lowered hatch without a complete suspension change. With that much power they *are* "floaty" under full acceleration. The suspension just isn't stiff enough even with upgraded sway bars and being the rear is a torsion bar there is no easy way to stiffen it - especially in a lowered application as there just isn't much room to work with between the trailing arm and the shock tower. Even EA82 rear coil-over's effect about a 4" lift when added to the EA81 so that is not a viable option for you. 2. Traction is going to be an issue - you will have to go to AWD to get that much power to the ground in a sane, non-tire-eating way. 3. Making a reliable 200 HP on the stock EA81 would be a challenge and expensive. The 200 HP turbo/super charged EA81's that RAM has built for aircraft use are in the range of $10,000 and while doing some of the work yourself and bartering/trading for stuff can mitigate some of the costs I wouldn't at all be surprised if it cost me $5,000 to build something close to what they have done. 4. I think the only sane, and viable option here is to go EJ. And as renob123 (Jacob) and myself are quickly finding out - that basically means you have to redesign the entire car. Which brings me to my final point: 5. 200 HP is right around the point at which you no longer have an '80's hatch with a motor swap - to do it right what you have is a WRX with a hatch body transplanted in place of the WRX body. That's how you have to start thinking about this build. Jacob is able to make some trade-offs because his Brat is purpose-built for his Rally-X hobby and as such does not need to perform well on the street - it needs to perform at or below 40 MPH (probably less than that most of the time) in the dirt. But even he is finding out that much of the EA equipment is not up to that amount of power and torque. I love the hatch - mine is getting an EJ22 with Delta cams - but much over 150 HP is not in my game plan for it. 200 HP on an EA81 is SCARY without all the other stuff that needs to go with that much power. Suspension, brakes, etc. GD

What are you trying to accomplish that you don't think the OEM filter is adequate for? Personally I run OEM or WIX (NAPA and Carquest are also WIX OEM) on all my oil filters. I have yet to have a problem with any of these alternatives. It's been my experience that the Germans make good oil filters - but then so do the Japanese and I haven't had any problems with OEM or WIX which are both readily availible. The Bosch stuff tends to be more expensive (than NGK plugs, WIX/OEM filters, etc) and either no tangible differences in performance or in the case of the Bosch plugs they can cause running issues with some Subaru engines and the wisdom around here is that NGK is a better and cheaper option. GD

Don't need to drain the oil. Don't need to pull the water pump (though it makes access a bit easier). I always take the oppotunity to install the seal while the pump is off. But I do a lot of crank seals without removing the pump as well - EJ pump's rarely need to be removed except in the few cases where checking the screws on the back is warranted but that's only a few models. They don't generally require a "reseal" as the RTV doesn't ever fail in practice and the o-ring behind the pump is not usually a neccesary replacement either. EJ oil pumps are relatively trouble-free units that often last the life of the engine. GD

Not important - you won't find a torque for that specific fastener. Use a metric bolt torque chart: http://www.cncexpo.com/MetricBoltTorque.aspx GD

I wish . It's just an easy answer to the "what can I do to this NA engine" question. Because really - there's nothing else that is as cheap and brings about as large of a change as a cam regrind. And being that the intake and exhaust aren't restrictions to any real degree - getting it to breathe any differently than it does stock is going to involve the cams. GD

You should direct him here so he can ask these questions of the forum himself - he obviously fails to understand the quality differences between OEM and aftermarket axles and is making a really poor choice. GD

Intake and exhaust aren't really restrictions on that engine. They are virtually identical to EJ25 exhaust systems and those engines push in the 165 HP range. Best bang for your buck is a set of cams. They are easy to install and will dramatically change the performance. GD

Since there's no real differences between EJ18 and EJ22 heads - it should be virtually identical to what was covered in that thread. GD

It doesn't really matter - it takes all of 15 minutes to change the front crank seal on an EA81. Most of those methods are fine. The unromantic truth is that the outer edge of the seal doesn't really need anything if it fits properly and the inner edge only needs a little lubrication of some form to prevent it from running dry on the first start-up. Personally I use Loctite 248 (blue in glue-stick form) on the outer edge and I use Dow Corning 111 valve lubricant on the ID when I'm being really anal. On a Subaru engine seal I just coat the ID in oil with my finger and knock the seal in. Not a big deal. GD

You have an exaust leak in the y-pipe. Fix it. GD

What you describe is known as the "Frankenmotor" and is a pretty common upgrade. It's a high-compression build in the 180 to 200 HP range. You use the EJ25D head gaskets and the compression is aroun 10.8:1 to 11.5:1 or so. In conjunction with a cam regrind it's a real kick in the pants. GD

It's running lean on that cylinder - find out why. GD

Heads surfaced = $80 Gaskets, hoses (radiator), etc = ~$150 Thermostat (only buy from dealer) = $15 Timing belt/idler kit (ebay) = $130 So for about $400 and a bunch of labor you could have it going. For reference - I see used first gen Legacy's all the time for $750 to $1000 in good running order. If it was me I would probably take it but I have a lot of parts and have done this job many times. It would probably be a part-out car and I would use the engine for a swap, etc and sell the rest. Just depends on what you want out of the deal. I don't think it's a bad deal if the body and interior are nice. But it's not the best deal I've seen either. EJ22's rarely blow head gaskets and that begs the question - what else was abused? I have bought them for $200 and drove them home and I've got them for free, replaced something simple like an alternator and drove them home...... if I get one for cheap that runs and drives I can do just a normal 60k service (t-belt, water pump, idlers, and any seals and gaskets that are bad) and be into it for about 4 hours of labor and $150 over the purchase price. That's how I look at these anymore. Sounds like the time investment and the unknown quantities (short block condtion) are too risky to me. I would just part it out. GD

I've had good luck with lubing them. The few I've done (I removed them and worked them by hand till free) haven't required any furthre attention. Eventually they probably will - the rust and lubricant will form a grinding compound inside the joint and in a few years it will probably get sloppy. Yeah - mark the shafts with a paint pen. GD

The being stuck in 4th when you come to a stop thing - that's not related. I've had 4 speed's that do that but are otherwise fine and do not grind in any gear. It's not a big problem if you remember to shift to neutral before comming to a complete stop. Sounds like 3rd and 4th are gone as well as the getting stuck in 4th problem.... pretty typical at 250k+ with these. It's junk now . GD

Depends - are you heavy on the brakes? Some people (especially some Women I've noticed ) are heavy brake users - tailgating and braking constantly on the freeway and not using any compression braking at all.... this wears them very quickly. If you think you drive like a maniac then get the good one's and make sure the lug nuts are torqued properly - this may stave off the inevitable warped rotor problem. If you are a light brake user that never has problems with rotor warpage, and you properly torque the lug nuts, etc - the cheaper stuff usually works fine. Eventually they usually warp and the better quality stuff lasts longer before it does - but then again they are three times the price and probably don't last three times as long..... just depends on what you want. Personally I buy the cheap one's for my vehicles and if I have to go in and replace one, etc it's still cheaper than having them turned and they are brand new every time I do a major brake job. OEM will last longer with heavier use, will be worth turning down when they do eventually warp or wear, etc. But the pads won't last any longer and replacing the rotors is an extra 2 minutes to the brake job...... Judgment call. GD

Manual transmission's are not nearly as troublesome with regard to tire size. It's the automatic's that have to worry about torque bind typically. I would just rotate them and call it good. GD

Eventually 4th gear will just not be there. It will chew up the shift dogs to the point that they no longer hold and the gear just won't lock to the shaft anymore - you will be able to put it in the place where 4th was located - but it will just grind. 3rd is usually the one that fails so expect that to go next. There will be a lot of metal in the oil as well. I doubt it will stop moving - but you won't be able to go real fast without 4th. GD

It's shot. Not worth fixing. Tell him to upgrade to a 5 speed. GD

Fuel pump pickup/strainer has come dislodged from the pump or the pump is not attached to the bracket. Just fixed this exact same issue on a '97 Legacy. Someone had replaced the pump and discarded the pickup/strainer. I replaced the entire assembly with a good used one from the u-pull-it for $35. Only does it turning right because the pump is on the right side of the tank so when you turn right the fuel goes to the left and the pump sucks air. GD

If there is no metal in the bottom of the pan then it is unlikely to be a main or rod bearing. By the sounds of it - the noise and the smoking - I would guess a broken ring/worn cylinder and possibly a piston slap issue. That is just a guess though. I would say tear it down and have a look - or just replace it. Bad EJ22's aren't that common. GD

Get the Ford F150 pump - much cheaper. Napa part# 2P74028 GD