GeneralDisorder

I love how - if it only lasts 225k, and you put another 25k on it while broken (but still getting you around), it's "junk" in the Subaru world . This would be amazing for most domestic cars and pretty spectacular for many imports as well. . Not to mention there's probably 100% more parts in a Subaru transaxle being they are AWD...... But yes - VC's on 5MT's can and do fail. In fact 5MT's are less reliable in general than the 4EAT's. GD

I was told second hand that head shops have to label the 1.8 heads to distinguish them since they are virtually identical to 2.2 heads. Also - lots of people have used both for the Frankenmotor build (EJ18 and EJ22 both being common Impreza engines), and there seems to be no difference in how they run. Everything I've read points to them being basically the same casting (as well as 22T heads). I wouldn't worry about it at all. GD

Cams - helps with the sound too and probably the quickest, easiest, cheapest way to get more power. For $160 and some seals you can increase your torque by a considerable amount. GD

I've seen a few and owned a '94 GT. Rare but not crazy rare. An interesting vehicle though and if possible it should go to someone that will appreciate it. Only '90 and '91 got the Panasonic stereo with the AUX jack. All '92 to '94 stereo's are Clarion's and do not have them (but otherwise look almost identical). GD

Yeah - should be fine with whatever you put on there. WD40 is only slighly better than urinating on it...... squirt it down with some ATF from an oil can if you can. ATF thinned with 50% acetone.... even better. GD

The smaller ID line is an "orifice" - otherwise they effectively ARE independant. More will flow through the larger diameter side and you will get positive flow. GD

To push more than 5 psi safely you will have to lower the compression. 8:1 would be a good start. You might end up having to o-ring the block to hold head gaskets. To do it right - this will not be a cheap build. But yes it can be done - RAM engines built a 200 HP supercharged EA81 for airplane use. GD

www.car-part.com is a neat resource. That's how I found this latest transmission for the OBW ('99 but the '97 tranny bolted right up) I'm selling. Works nice and came with a warantee and 110k on it for $375. Shifts like butter and drives like new. GD

All the OEM water pump gaskets are warped like that - it's from the punching/deforming process they use to create them. They are fine - just torque it down and it will be ok. No need for sealant - they are rubberized anyway. GD

I was told by my head shop that it wasn't worth it on the EJ22E heads. The cost is $100 per head for a port and polish and they would do it but he said the return on investment wasn't there for those heads - probably 5 HP or less. They were also like a week and a half out and we didn't have that much time so we opted to go with just rebuilt stock heads/valves. They do a lot of Subaru head work so I trust their judgement. But hey - if you have the time and money it's not likely to hurt performance and you might be surprised. But I think I would probably go with Phase-II heads if I were going to do it - for the roller rockers, solid lifters, etc. GD

Yep - just like a Hummer GD

I dissagree - the inner joints are much less of a concern than the outers and if the outer boots are good and the CV joints are OEM (green painted cups, NTN brand) then just do the boots and grease. Chances are good they will last a lot longer. Also swap the joints - left for right. This will change the load on the joint when the car is moving forward and give them a little longer life. If this were the outer joint boots, or they were making clicking noises, etc..... I would say replace them. But inner joint boot failure on an EJ axle is rarely a serious problem and the EJ axles are so easy to remove compared to the EA stuff that I don't mind doing it a second time if it turns out they do have a problem. But I've rebooted a lot of OEM inner's and never had a problem yet. GD

Yeah - some experience with mechanical systems is good to know things like that - bearing/cup fittment, shimming, etc. But it's really simple and you only need very basic hand tools to accomplish it. They also don't fail very often so a good used one would be an appropriate comprimise in terms of price. If this were a common failure I could see buying the new one - but frankly I've paid much less than $550 for entire cars and in fact I just bought a good used 110k tranny for a '97 OBW for $375 (and then sold the old tranny which had many good parts for $100) with a 90 day warantee from a dismantler yard..... so that seems cost prohibitive unless you pull the diff from a junk yard car for $25. If I can replace the entire tranny for ~$275 (or less - I've paid less before)...... well you see my point I'm sure. GD

ALL GASKETS INSTALLED DRY!!!!!!! YES - WATER PUMP TOO. Dealer gaskets do not require any sealant and you will just make a mess and comprimise the seal if you do that. Do not use the threadlocker either. You don't need it. That is for very specific applications. ESPECIALLY do not use threadlocker on the head bolts!!!!! I will personally come over there and kick you square in the nuts. GD

That bolt is reverse (left hand) thread IIRC (the one for the belt tensioner right?) - thus you can't just buy one from any hardware store. Best to get one from a board member, junk yard, or the dealer. Even a specialty fastener dealer would probably have a hard time with that one. I'll tell you right now that ACE hardware is going to be a fail. If I had to solve this without the actual Subaru part - my solution would be left-hand metric all-thread and two jam-nuts for the head . You won't like the price of left hand metric all-thread though - or how long it will take to order some GD

Check for vacuum supply to the module? If that checks out - just get a used one from a junk yard - they are easy to pull and almost never fail in the way your's apparently has. I too doubt the dealer's reccomendation to replace that control - I've seen what you describe but it's always due to lack of vacuum to the control system. GD

I was going off him saying that turning it off and back on numerous times will cure it..... I had a similar issue with my hatch where the ignition switch would hit a certain posistion that would allow the engine to run but not power the accesories - didn't have guages, wipers, radio, etc..... messing with the switch or turning it off and back on a couple times would usually help. I replaced the switch and haven't seen that behavior since. I've noticed with older EA's that have a ton of miles (240k+ in my case), the ignition switch usually wants replaced as well as new code-cut keys made and the lock serviced. Really helps with a lot of strange issues and I've seen too many burnt ignition switch harnesses where wires shorted out, etc. I don't mess around with them anymore for the $32 price of a new one. But as you say - it might be something else. Definitely check it with a MM before you replace it. I've also seen corrosion on the cluster PCB cause issues like this - since the individual gauges are bolted to the board and that mechanical connection can become a problem. GD

Yeah - check it with the engine running - hard to say what it is but maybe associated with the fan thermoswitch? IDK - there are too many radiator variations and most cars have had the radiator replaced at least once by that age... could be a lot of things. GD

No - you don't touch wheel bearings on EJ's unless they actually fail. Often they go the life of the car without failure. They are also a raging biotch to do and prohibitively expensive to want to do them without any need. They really just don't fail too often though (except those Forester rear's ). The CV part of the job is so easy that it's not even really getting you closer with respect to labor on the bearing job - the CV is changed without removeing any of the brake hardware or disturbing the hub, etc. It's just a single nut on the end of the axle, pop the ball joint out of the knuckle, and knock out the roll pin on the tranny end. I can probably have one out in 5 minutes most days - not including putting the car on jack stands . Depends though - somtimes you run into spline rust, or naughty pinch bolts on the knuckle.... etc. I just usually say 1 hour per wheel to be safe. And I don't do fractional hours when I bill. Setup and tear-down takes time too. GD

Center diff is REALLY easy to change on a manual - pull the extension housing cover, slip it out, and slip the new one in. Reseal the cover and drive on. GD

Sounds like a u-joint to me. That's exactly what they feel like when partially frozen - and you live right in RUST central so it makes sense. Yes - that's what allows the bend in the shaft. It's between the firewall and the rack. GD

Leave it bone stock except the engine - be like the Ninja - silent but deadly. Don't let your enemies know you are comming. GD

You can check for continuity but if it's in intermittant problem..... and continuity doesn't indicate amp carrying capacity. Yes they come with the wireing. No soldering is involved. GD

Soft wire wheel on a bench grinder - absolutely essential part of any shop. You do not want to run a die over the threads - you do not want ANY descrepencies between the die nut and the thread dimentions to cause removal of material. While they may be the same size and thread pitch, there are tollerances to the manufacture of threads that are not taken into account by those two measurements alone. Best that you don't use a die. A thread file would be a better choice (but not better than a wire wheel) as it can be better controled than a die. GD

Right on - Weber is the way to go if you can swing it. Drop by when you get it mounted and I'll help you tune it right. GD