GeneralDisorder

The factory stereo wasn't cutting it on my hatch. Hasn't cut it since I installed it in fact. Got the car with the typical missing radio console/cut wires, etc. A few years ago I found a really nice bone stock radio console with OEM cassette deck, etc at a yard and kept it around - it was an obvious choice when I first got the hatch and started driving it. It gave me a radio - that's all I cared about for my 10 mile commute. The real-deal stereo is in my '91 SS anyway.... Well it finally became intollerable - either because I drive it more these days due to the SS needing a clutch or because the speakers were painfully blown with ripped up paper cone's, etc and it was hard to hear much of anything - let alone hear it while driving When I came across these shallow mechless decks in another USMB thread I realized that us EA81 owners had been handed the answer to our problem - all these years we have been without any suitible mounting kit for a full DIN deck and have been forced to either build something really ugly, or try and use the EA82 mounting kit and lose our ashtray, and pocket in the process. I didn't like this idea at all and so I had set out over a year ago to mount a DIN deck in the cassette/pocket location - only to find that it still needed about 1" of spacing to make it work. I had already made a nice aluminium backing plate for the deck but lost interest in finishing it when I realized it would have to be spaced out farther. $37 + free super saver shipping brought me this little gem: I also needed to do something about the troublesome dash speakers - I know that putting speakers in the doors would sound better but I prefer to leave them in the dash where they are high and dry. Someday this will be a wheeler and with that in mind I wish to keep the doors free of electrical and leave all the seals into the jam, etc intact and unbroken. A 3.5" coaxial actually fits very well into the odd driver's side dash speaker: More to come. I'll take pics of the other dash speaker (not nearly as tight as it's larger) and some of the rear's (which are not at all spectacular as they are just bolt-in 4" coaxials). I'm considering going with a slimline sub with built in amp mounted on the headliner above where the rear seat used to be (ripped that out too - never use it and it will be better as storage space). Anyone with experience with these? This is not a high-end stereo system install so don't tell me I need to spend a whole bunch of coin to just get something I can hear on the freeway..... that's not what this is about. I have less than $100 into the entire system as it sits right now - $37 for the head unit, $16 for the front speakers, and $39 for the rears (went with decent rears as they are hard to access). Any sugestions or reccomendations welcome. GD

I really like them for general dissasembly tasks. But they aren't impacts and have virtually no power for "breaking loose" stuff. Their utility lies in their ability to remove and install faster than you can without the potential damage durring installation that an impact could impart - and they fit down in tight areas. Basically they are a time saver and nothing more since you could do everything they do with a hand ratchet. GD

Ticking time bomb. Is that really what you want? The whole turbo thing is super overated on the EA's. It's not really neccesary if you do a performance engine build on the NA engines or an engine swap to an EJ......basically it's a whole lot of 20 year old hoses, lines, and out dated electronics that will nickle and dime you to death if it doesn't just straight blow up on you one day. If you just want a clean body that you can swap something else into.... the turbo's are a good start because they already have the FI pump and tank so beyond a little wiring and some mechanical work you can pretty much bolt in an EJ22. GD

That's a good deal assuming the body and interior aren't totally hammered. You can definitely fix that for cheap with a $125 kit off ebay and be good for another 60k. Do it. GD

+1. I had a very nice '91 Legacy a few months back - always dealer maintained with lots of documentation. They replaced the ignition switch and the starter shortly before I got it with dealer parts. It still would occasionally only give you the click. Even the dealer tech's haven't caught on apparently. Though I'm not sure if the relay install is an option for them..... maybe not. The lady got rid of the car partially due to this issue that Subaru seemingly couldn't fix even after hundreds of $$ thrown at it. I got it $200. I installed a relay and did a few other things - sold it for $1500 and it hasn't failed to start a single time since then. That was about 8 months ago. GD

RTV has limited applications but I do coat all my cork gaskets in in and LET IT DRY before installation. This saves the cork from it's otherwise sure fate of absorbing the oil and being cooked down to crispy shoe leather. One of the biggest problems with sealants in general is that people use WAY too much. Most of which is squeezed out when the parts are assembled. Anytime RTV is used the proper amount of "squeeze out" is about 1/32" to 1/16". With RTV this means you cover the surface with a smear from your finger - deep enough only to insure you can't see through it. A "bead" no matter how small is almost always too much. As for installing all gaskets dry - there is a time and place for that but there is also a time and place for improving upon the gasket tech that's in the older engines. RTV is, in almost all cases other than cork, best suited as a gasket *replacement* rather than a supplement. It works very well to eliminate the gaskets on things like the Subaru water pumps. Though the coated metal OEM gaskets on the EJ's are much cleaner and easier to use, I have replaced EA water pumps using only RTV and it works just fine. You have to be careful where you use it so that it doesn't clog oil passages and it is not suitable for gasoline, etc. There are better options in some cases like the Loctite 515/518 flange sealants, Subaru Three Bond, etc. One must consider the application carefully and weigh all the options. As for leaks - none of my Subaru's leak. You won't find a single drop under any of them. I only ever have to seal them up one time after I aquire them. That's how it seems to work out anyway. Surface prep is definitely of utmost importance. No matter what you choose to seal it with - the surfaces being sealed against need to be fully prepped. GD

I beleive the EA81T's were equipped with clutch fans, yes. Thus the reason they have the bolt-on pulley vs. the NA EA81 with the pressed on pulley. GD

I understand the confusion. It gets old after many years of telling people the why's and wherefore's of buying OEM parts. In defense of us that are brief about that sort of thing now - it's because we have covered it before (probably more than once) and a search of the forum would yeild most of that information. Sadly I find that I have to but a LOT of OEM parts. Mostly gaskets and seals but also a few other items like the EA series coils. I get them through a local import parts house that does a really good job of getting OEM parts through other supply chains. On the odd occasion that I actually buy a new one - mostly I just use junkyard coil's since the OEM (ND and Hitachi) coils last virtually forever. I've never had one fail on a car with a matched set, decent wires and properly gapped plugs. It just doesn't happen. GD

Let them total it then buy it for $100 and repair it. I would kill for that to happen to one of mine...... that's payday right there . Having plenty of other cars to drive really makes it hard for them to press you into a settlement. If they try to mess with you - retain a Lawyer for $500 and really stick it to them (damages, legal fees, time and loss of work, etc, etc). I know I would. Probably just the threat of getting a lawyer will raise their offer a whole bunch GD

This is known as "voodoo mechanicing" - basically you are hoping to have more amps availible for the damaged circuit. That is a good clue that it's amps and not voltage that's your problem. Your mechanic is guesing. Here on this board we have LOTS of experience with this problem. Find a mechanic (or do it yourself - it's really simple) to install a relay for the crank cicruit. This WILL fix your problem and it will be the last time/money you spend on this mess. I'm handing you the answer - serving it on the finest silver even - just do what we say and live happily ever after. GD

Sounds like those aftermarket coils burned up the distributor module. Wouldn't be the first time. There's a reason we said to use the correct coil for your distributor. The module's are sensitive to use with non-spec coils. GD

It's got to be more than 160. The stock EJ25 is 165 and with this high-compression setup it's definitely more than that. Conservative estimate I would put it around 180 at least - increase of compression from 9.5:1 to around 11:1 would account for at least 15 HP..... Maybe closer to 200 considering the header, cams, large exhaust, etc. With the torque ground cams it's hard to say what the HP is because the torque is so amazing that it's overpowering - you can't even really wrap the thing up much because it's just wheel-spin city. If we could figure out the idle hunting and tendancy to die after cruising it would be perfect. Something is screwball and I think the OBD-I EJ22 ECU is totally confused with this engine. Might be that it's requireing fueling outside the bounds of the idle maps. We may fix this with MegaSquirt. I know I want to - just depends on his funding level. GD

From what I have seen - none of the pressure sender's will fit under the alt. You might be able to convert to NPT then run a peice of 1/8" NPT pipe straight up out of the hole it's in and put the sender bulb on top. As long as it clears the hood you can do that. But a stainless steel braided hose to get the bulb out on the fenderwall or firewall is just as easy but maybe slightly more expensive. I think I paid about $40 with shipping for a 36" braided hose from summit when I did a similar thing with my lifted EA81 wagon. GD

You can put a T fitting in to run both is what he is saying. Not that leaving the idiot lamp switch out is a problem - if you have a guage then presumably you will actually read it GD

Yeah - that's about the size of it I would say. Plus gas for the two hours of driving GD

So it was the damper spring/PP interferance problem? That was my first thought since I've looked at that problem before and noted the intereferance between the two. Plus Jerry brought it to my attention when I was at his place and got my 5 speed and his kit. Then it came up on the board a while back and it was determined that 85/86 has the compatible damper springs. GD

Likely going to be around $150 plus fluid (two gallons of ATF). Figure about 4 hours and my rate is $35/Hr. Have to get the car up on stands, remove the exhaust, wrestle the tranny out and the new one in place..... etc. An excelent time to do axles or boots if needed since they have to come off the tranny anyway. GD

From experience I can say this would be a VERY bad situation and he would probably know about it. Without the SPFI's pressure regulator keeping them at 21 psi, the SPFI pump's actually put down about 50 psi. This would be thrice-over enough to blow the needle right off the seat and flood the whole engine bay with gasoline. Definitely a bad day. This occured on my truck actually when the mechanical fuel pump developed an issue with it's internal regulator - the carb was spraying fuel from the throttle shafts - all over the hot cast iron intake manifold and exhaust headers..... I would have to say that if he's driving it well enough to track the mileage then it's highly unlikely that he's got an SPFI pump. GD

You don't need a FPR. The stock pumps are great on the Weber. Definitely check the float level. Try the docs over on carbsunlimted.com - should have the spec you need. When did the mileage take the hit or has it always been poor? With my lifted wagon I've found I'm lucky to get over 20 MPG. Part of that is that it has to be driven like you stole it to not get run over. But I'm also running 27" tires. GD

Zombie Thread! .....It lives again! You have to kill the witch doctor that brought it back or it will just keep feeding on the minds of the living Everyone! Quick! Hide your Brains GD

You don't have to locate the sender on the block - you can run a hose or tubing from the block to the sender and locate the sender on the firewall, etc. The threads are either 1/8" NPT or BSPT. Probably NPT. GD

It's not the most fun job - basically a bunch of wallowing around on the ground if you don't have a lift. I highly reccomend investing in an $80 tranny jack from harbor frieght to do any of the Subaru automatic's - they are heavy suckers and awkward to try and lift into place without the right tool. I've done a number of transmission swaps before I got one and I will not willingly go back to bench-pressing Subaru transaxles off my chest and into cars . This is not your typical Honda FWD transverse transmission - these are BIG heavy things. Think RWD GM automatic - about 75% as large as a turbo hydro-matic. Or you can fold some green into my pocket and I'll gladly do the dirty work for you. GD

It's all good - just learn from it and do better with the next version. You are young yet - younger than I was when I first lifted a Subaru. Give this stuff a little more time - patience is key to making your splash in the gene pool. Too much desire for instant gratificiation can snuff you out like a candle. GD

Hhhhmmm - try putting some washers, etc under the nut for the clutch cable to get more adjustment. Could be that the cable needs replaced and has stretched? What about the cable sheath? Secured at both ends properly? If that doesn't do it - take it back apart cause something's wrong. The PP fingers going flat like that is normal when you tighten them down. I always tighten them through the starter hole though - makes fitting the engine up to the tranny easier and faster. GD

Voltage is only half the equation. You need amps too. Somewhere, something isn't happy about giving you enough amps to close the solenoid. Since it's been checked over by a lot of mechanics - I would check the inhibitor switches (clutch pedal on a manual, or the park/neutral switch on an automatic) just to be sure that's not the issue. And if not, install a relay run by the old solenoid wire that gives the solenoid full battery voltage. Here's a recent thread with the same issue on a '95: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=115119 GD