GeneralDisorder

The "AT temp" lamp flashes indicating stored codes for the TCU, not the CEL. And it only does it on some models if you turn the ign. on/off/on in rapid succession. The CEL will not indicate faults with the TCU - they are not hooked together. GD

Should all be the same - the EJ22's are 8 bolt at the crank.... which all Subaru engines are at least back to the EA71. In fact the only reason the EA's have a different bolt pattern is they made it asymetrical in order to insure there was only a single orientation for the flywheel-to-crank mating so the timing marks would line up. The EJ have no timing marks so they are a symetrical pattern but same number of bolts. I doubt you will have any problems with it. GD

I'm sure a Tribeca could do it as well as the H6 OBW. 1000 lbs of trailer isn't unreasonable for a Subaru but if it were going to be a regular occurance then I would want something with one of the H6's for the power. Transmission cooler and engine oil cooler (if not already equipped) would be an absolute must IMO - cheap insurance. GD

I've noticed that my mud tires are not a great choice for snow covered pavement. It's pretty squirrely. I tend not to drive my lifted wagon unless I'm taking it off-road. Lifted EA's with mud tires just don't make very good daily's - the tires are too expensive for one thing. GD

I agree - this would be the best solution. GD

Doesn't the OBD-II advanced code reader tell you when/if there is knock detected? Seems like a possible way to check the signal from it..... definitely sounds like a plausible cause of the idleing problem. This sounds very much like what's going on with the frankenmotor swap renob123 and myself did. It's hunting at idle something fierce and it definitely could be knock related since it's a high compression build and is running the relatively primitive OBD-I ECU. Once you get away from idle it runs perfect and there are no codes present so we have been unable thus far to figure out what it's issue is. Our next step is going to be to run a diagnostic using the Subaru Select monitor interface and a laptop but we haven't got a chance yet. GD

If you used big, strong ties it would probably work. The trouble is going to be in tightening them enough to ensure the boot won't pull free. It will be a fight between the tensile strength of the zip tie, the tools you have for tightening them, how flexible the tie material is, and how "squishy" the boot rubber is. Sounds like a real mess to me and I wouldn't go that route unless I had no other options. The metal boot clamps are REALLY TIGHT when done properly - they compress the rubber of the boot in a serious way. The boots will pull out from under the clamp or off the cup unless they are very tight. GD

The clutch is going to be the major issue as the T/O assembly and spline count of the 2WD 5 speed's is totally different than the 4WD 5 speed's. GD

You need to pull the codes per the instructions in wtdash's post above. We can't really help you till you do that. GD

It can and probably will under the usage patterns that it is likely to see. Filters don't filter very well out of the box - they actually filter better as they age - to a point of course. More capacity means it doesn't age as quickly and thus the particulate size trapped will be larger for a longer period of time. The stock Subaru filter is designed to be used for 15,000 miles. Part of the reason is that it filters better as it ages so that changing it continuously resets the filtration particulate size to the base media size and never filters out the small stuff. I can't see needing a larger capacity (thus a filter that lasts longer) in an application where 3,000 mile oil changes are the "conventional wisdom" and the Subaru filter is designed for 15,000. Frankly most people are changing them much too soon anyway.... GD

Pretty much you just remove the bolts on either end, shove the joint farther up the steering shaft till it clears the rack input, rotate that end out of the way and pull it off the steering shaft. Lubrication of the splines and sometimes a little gentle spreading of the ears on the ends of the joint with a screwdriver, etc is helpful. Depending on the design there might be a need to unbolt a rag joint, etc - it should be pretty obvious when you inspect it. GD

REMOVE the joint and inspect it. Clean/lubricate if needed. Or you may find it's not the culprit. Either way a proper inspection is needed. They are relatively easy to remove. GD

Capacity for what? "300% greater" than what? Why do you beleive you need this? More directly - why do you beleive that the OEM filter is inferior? Please elaborate - note that I am asking what you are trying to accomplish here - not for a quotation from some marketing materials about the superiority of their filtering media. Filtration is a tricky subject and the statement "300% greater capacity" means absolutely nothing. It sounds really great to most people but means very little without elaboration. GD

Stainless aircraft lock wire would be a better choice but both are inferior to a 1/4" or 6mm wide worm clamp as they are 100% reusable with only a screwdriver. GD

All the boot kits I use are the EMPI boot kits and I've not had a single problem with installation or complaint about them yet. I did get a set once that was too small for the cup it needed to go on but I went back and brought the axle and a match was found using a part number for a different model/year. All the boot kits are $12 at my retailer and come with new spring clips and grease packs, etc. You do need a boot clamp tool for the clamps included - about $15 IIRC. I used hose clamps on my rear axle boots in my lifted wagon. They will work. I did it for ease of field replacement. I just used stainless hardware store clamps but it would be really nice to get some of the 6mm wide VW axle boot worm clamps. I've seen them in kits but haven't tried real hard to source them individually. EMPI axles are pretty decent in my experience. I've had one boot failure on my hatch after about 4 years of daily driving. Another member just arranged to get a set from my source for $69 each and have another member (renob123/Jacob - I think you have met him) drop them off up in the Seattle area to him. You might contact Jacob and see if he can get you a set and bring them up on Friday at the same time..... or just the boot kits for $12 each if you want those. GD

I've seen EJ22's blow head gaskets and given that the engine is going to be accesible (unbolted from the tranny), it's a trivial matter to throw in new head gaskets and gives an opportunity to inspect the cylinders, etc. In my opinion it would be silly not to include the head gaskets in a reseal. A compression check would show you nothing. A head gasket leak small enough to allow it to run would not show on the gauge. A leak-down *might* show it but it might equally not as the leak might only open at operating temp. The only sensible course is to remove the heads and inspect. Then go from there. GD

Absolutely - boot kits are about $25 per axle. Do them both and drive on. That's what he should do. Otherwise he should go to the dealer and get reman axles if they can get them. GD

Yes - it should be made clear to him that he's throwing away $200 axles in favor of $59 chinese garbage. While there is a time and a place for $59 chinese axles, it doesn't sound as if his blown inner boot that he only "noticed" after lifting the hood is the right choice. GD

1. I think 200 HP is too much for a slightly lowered hatch without a complete suspension change. With that much power they *are* "floaty" under full acceleration. The suspension just isn't stiff enough even with upgraded sway bars and being the rear is a torsion bar there is no easy way to stiffen it - especially in a lowered application as there just isn't much room to work with between the trailing arm and the shock tower. Even EA82 rear coil-over's effect about a 4" lift when added to the EA81 so that is not a viable option for you. 2. Traction is going to be an issue - you will have to go to AWD to get that much power to the ground in a sane, non-tire-eating way. 3. Making a reliable 200 HP on the stock EA81 would be a challenge and expensive. The 200 HP turbo/super charged EA81's that RAM has built for aircraft use are in the range of $10,000 and while doing some of the work yourself and bartering/trading for stuff can mitigate some of the costs I wouldn't at all be surprised if it cost me $5,000 to build something close to what they have done. 4. I think the only sane, and viable option here is to go EJ. And as renob123 (Jacob) and myself are quickly finding out - that basically means you have to redesign the entire car. Which brings me to my final point: 5. 200 HP is right around the point at which you no longer have an '80's hatch with a motor swap - to do it right what you have is a WRX with a hatch body transplanted in place of the WRX body. That's how you have to start thinking about this build. Jacob is able to make some trade-offs because his Brat is purpose-built for his Rally-X hobby and as such does not need to perform well on the street - it needs to perform at or below 40 MPH (probably less than that most of the time) in the dirt. But even he is finding out that much of the EA equipment is not up to that amount of power and torque. I love the hatch - mine is getting an EJ22 with Delta cams - but much over 150 HP is not in my game plan for it. 200 HP on an EA81 is SCARY without all the other stuff that needs to go with that much power. Suspension, brakes, etc. GD

What are you trying to accomplish that you don't think the OEM filter is adequate for? Personally I run OEM or WIX (NAPA and Carquest are also WIX OEM) on all my oil filters. I have yet to have a problem with any of these alternatives. It's been my experience that the Germans make good oil filters - but then so do the Japanese and I haven't had any problems with OEM or WIX which are both readily availible. The Bosch stuff tends to be more expensive (than NGK plugs, WIX/OEM filters, etc) and either no tangible differences in performance or in the case of the Bosch plugs they can cause running issues with some Subaru engines and the wisdom around here is that NGK is a better and cheaper option. GD

Don't need to drain the oil. Don't need to pull the water pump (though it makes access a bit easier). I always take the oppotunity to install the seal while the pump is off. But I do a lot of crank seals without removing the pump as well - EJ pump's rarely need to be removed except in the few cases where checking the screws on the back is warranted but that's only a few models. They don't generally require a "reseal" as the RTV doesn't ever fail in practice and the o-ring behind the pump is not usually a neccesary replacement either. EJ oil pumps are relatively trouble-free units that often last the life of the engine. GD

Not important - you won't find a torque for that specific fastener. Use a metric bolt torque chart: http://www.cncexpo.com/MetricBoltTorque.aspx GD

I wish . It's just an easy answer to the "what can I do to this NA engine" question. Because really - there's nothing else that is as cheap and brings about as large of a change as a cam regrind. And being that the intake and exhaust aren't restrictions to any real degree - getting it to breathe any differently than it does stock is going to involve the cams. GD

You should direct him here so he can ask these questions of the forum himself - he obviously fails to understand the quality differences between OEM and aftermarket axles and is making a really poor choice. GD

Intake and exhaust aren't really restrictions on that engine. They are virtually identical to EJ25 exhaust systems and those engines push in the 165 HP range. Best bang for your buck is a set of cams. They are easy to install and will dramatically change the performance. GD