GeneralDisorder

Check for vacuum supply to the module? If that checks out - just get a used one from a junk yard - they are easy to pull and almost never fail in the way your's apparently has. I too doubt the dealer's reccomendation to replace that control - I've seen what you describe but it's always due to lack of vacuum to the control system. GD

I was going off him saying that turning it off and back on numerous times will cure it..... I had a similar issue with my hatch where the ignition switch would hit a certain posistion that would allow the engine to run but not power the accesories - didn't have guages, wipers, radio, etc..... messing with the switch or turning it off and back on a couple times would usually help. I replaced the switch and haven't seen that behavior since. I've noticed with older EA's that have a ton of miles (240k+ in my case), the ignition switch usually wants replaced as well as new code-cut keys made and the lock serviced. Really helps with a lot of strange issues and I've seen too many burnt ignition switch harnesses where wires shorted out, etc. I don't mess around with them anymore for the $32 price of a new one. But as you say - it might be something else. Definitely check it with a MM before you replace it. I've also seen corrosion on the cluster PCB cause issues like this - since the individual gauges are bolted to the board and that mechanical connection can become a problem. GD

Yeah - check it with the engine running - hard to say what it is but maybe associated with the fan thermoswitch? IDK - there are too many radiator variations and most cars have had the radiator replaced at least once by that age... could be a lot of things. GD

No - you don't touch wheel bearings on EJ's unless they actually fail. Often they go the life of the car without failure. They are also a raging biotch to do and prohibitively expensive to want to do them without any need. They really just don't fail too often though (except those Forester rear's ). The CV part of the job is so easy that it's not even really getting you closer with respect to labor on the bearing job - the CV is changed without removeing any of the brake hardware or disturbing the hub, etc. It's just a single nut on the end of the axle, pop the ball joint out of the knuckle, and knock out the roll pin on the tranny end. I can probably have one out in 5 minutes most days - not including putting the car on jack stands . Depends though - somtimes you run into spline rust, or naughty pinch bolts on the knuckle.... etc. I just usually say 1 hour per wheel to be safe. And I don't do fractional hours when I bill. Setup and tear-down takes time too. GD

Center diff is REALLY easy to change on a manual - pull the extension housing cover, slip it out, and slip the new one in. Reseal the cover and drive on. GD

Sounds like a u-joint to me. That's exactly what they feel like when partially frozen - and you live right in RUST central so it makes sense. Yes - that's what allows the bend in the shaft. It's between the firewall and the rack. GD

Leave it bone stock except the engine - be like the Ninja - silent but deadly. Don't let your enemies know you are comming. GD

You can check for continuity but if it's in intermittant problem..... and continuity doesn't indicate amp carrying capacity. Yes they come with the wireing. No soldering is involved. GD

Soft wire wheel on a bench grinder - absolutely essential part of any shop. You do not want to run a die over the threads - you do not want ANY descrepencies between the die nut and the thread dimentions to cause removal of material. While they may be the same size and thread pitch, there are tollerances to the manufacture of threads that are not taken into account by those two measurements alone. Best that you don't use a die. A thread file would be a better choice (but not better than a wire wheel) as it can be better controled than a die. GD

Right on - Weber is the way to go if you can swing it. Drop by when you get it mounted and I'll help you tune it right. GD

The u-joint in the steering shaft is probably getting frozen up with rust, etc. Remove it and check that it moves freely. It could be a CV also - but those will typically make noises rather than jerking the wheel around. GD

Yeah - sounds like torque bind to me. Flush the tranny and see where it gets you. Also - turn the ignition on and off and on again within 5 seconds or so and it will flash any TCU codes you may have stored. GD

Jerry's board name is bratsrus1 - just send him a PM. GD

Check with some other banks and especially with a credit union or two. Just going to a single bank is not a representative sample. And credit unions are usually a better choice with better rates. T-belts kits run from $130 (early SOHC EJ22's, etc) to $250 (late model SOHC EJ25's) for the parts (complete - belt, tensioner, idlers, cam+crank seals, water pump, etc). Labor is $100. Usually less than $400 with fluids etc - worst case. I do a lot more than most "timing belt" jobs call for though. The whole front of the engine will basically be new. CV's will run 1 hour per side on EJ cars - so $35 plus the cost of the CV (typically $70 aftermarket for the EMPI's) unless it's a rust bucket and it takes extra labor. Usually it's very simple. GD

+1. Huge waste of money. It will not affect DEQ to put any kind of exhaust on as long as you retain the header with the y-pipe and cat. Anything beyond that will just change the sound. I'll just put this out there since you seem to be very concerned about being able to mod your new Legacy: There is basically NOTHING that is cheap or easy to upgrade on a first-gen EJ22 Legacy. It is what it is - the best bang for your buck is to buy cams from Delta for $160 and install them along with a new timing belt, water pump, and reseal. They are easy and the torque cams WILL make a big difference. Beyond that - you are looking at about $1000 minimum to get into a 2.5 block or get a start at turbo-charging it. Frankly that car isn't worth it. The body is trashed. It's a nice cheap commuter. You should just leave it be and let it be reliable and cheap for you. When you have money you should START by buying a different car that has actual performance potential and has decent looks to go with it. Something with a turbo would be a good start. GD

No - that's the gear selector and it also twists. If you play with it you will see there are 6 distinct locations it will notch into. It pulls in/out - it's just tighter than you think. It operates both the 4WD engagement system as well as the low range idler gear at the front of the transmission Trust me on this - I've had more than a few of these apart Ah I see - don't remember Vans - I must be too old for those. . GD

That's lame and smacks of pure laziness. Pushbuttons are alright if implemented correctly but arcing wires is dangerous and silly unless the bombs fell and I didn't notice? If you have the internet and running water - this is not ok. GD

The switch is not serviceable - you replace it with a new one. GD

It's a Dual XR4110: http://www.amazon.com/Dual-XR4110-3-5mm-Mechless-Receiver/dp/B002OMB7FE/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1283986640&sr=1-1 GD

Probably the same if they are both single-piston calipers on cars with 14" wheels - but measure the piston diameter with a caliper just to be sure. Remember it will be in Milimeters for the measurement to make the most sense. If that's the same and it bolts up - then they should work regardless if the part numbers are different. GD

Frankly it will only get mildly louder with a straight-through muffler on the stock exhaust - there are cat's and resonators that take out much of the high piched noises. I would pickup one of the ebay straight-through models that has a removeable baffle plate that can be added to make it quieter..... GD

STi muffler will sound like crap on the EJ22. From experience I can tell you it's bad..... makes people around your car feel like vommiting. If you want it to be louder - knock the muffler off and replace it with a straight-through. The EJ22 doesn't have the cams or the displacement for the STi muffler to sound right. It will sound horrible. Like a tiny engine with a gigantic exhaust (weak and tinny). You don't need to upgrade the exhaust at all until you are well into higher HP numbers. The stock exhaust is plenty for the EJ22 and frankly even a mildly built EJ22 or a stock EJ25 would be fine. GD

Might I sugest - if you are going to the trouble..... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.m748&item=160476762024&viewitem=&_trkparms=clkid%3D5820903939381906431 (instead of welding it). From what I understand pretty much all the Subaru front diff carriers are interchangeable on the 5 speed's.... not entirely sure about the EA's but it probably wouldn't be hard to make it work..... I will be putting one of these into a '95 STi transmission soon so I'll be able to comment on changing the stubs out for 23 spline (that's the goal right now). GD

Since you obviously have a nighmare stereo install on your hands - I'll throw up my Dual XR4110 install pic again - might help you out. It does everything I need it to do but it probably won't be as powerful as that Pioneer (but it will fit ). Yes - I built the aluminium backing plate behind it and reconfigured the whole console. Worked out really well. BTW - good job fixing the broken ignition switch. If you decide you need a new ignition switch they are $32 at the dealer. I contemplated what you did as well till I found it was cheaper to just replace it with a new switch and have some code-cut keys that work made for $30 ($20 for the first and $5 for each copy). GD

That would be a shift every 10 MPH - I don't think your arm and clutch foot can move that fast let alone have the syncro's mesh up GD