GeneralDisorder

The cooler's dramatically reduce oil temps and that prolongs oil life. It's worth it (especially on the turbo's) and the whole system doesn't stick down below the exhaust. But it's up to you - just install a "normal" water pump and remove the cooler. Sell it on the forum if you don't want it because other's around here will. Being that both engines are SOHC, all the stuff should work unless the tensioner parts are for a pre-'97. Otherwise they are pretty much all the same. Many people prefer the '97 and older tensioner style (they seem to be quite a bit more reliable) and you can swap the newer engines over to the older style tensioner just by swapping the tensioner bracket. GD

You winched the front end up a tree didn't you? GD

Doesn't mean they aren't bad - in fact it makes it more suspect as it could be an inferior aftermarket part. Not only that but one wonders why it was replaced twice...... GD

The oil cooler system is self-contained - there's no reason *not* to use it if all the parts are there. Basically it's just the special water pump, the oil cooler "sandwitch" that goes above the filter, a few hard lines and some hoses. It's a nice feature so you should save it if you can. As far as the timing belt stuff - all the SOHC belts are the same (both engines are SOHC right?) and all the EJ's use the same three idlers (two smooth and one cogged). The last idler is the belt tensioner and unless the parts you have are for a '97 or older then it should all be pretty much the same. Even the DOHC engines used the same idlers and tensioners. The only difference is the length of the belt. GD

Non turbo heads are SINGLE INTAKE PORT. The turbo manifold will NOT bolt on. They are completely different and completely incompatible. Neither head will work. GD

The '99 model year 4EAT's have a problem with delayed engagement. There's a seal you can replace, or you can try the trans-x additive and see if that helps. At any rate it's not that big of a deal. GD

A used hub/spindle is probably your best bet. Check www.car-part.com I've found some great deals through there and usually you can find a local option if you want to avoid shipping, etc. Excelent resource. GD

The cost is relatively small if you have some wireing tools (stripper, crimper, etc). A relay is about $10 or less and the wire/fuse holder/terminals/etc will probably run about $20 give or take. Even if you have to buy the tools you can still get this job done for $50 or less. It's an inexpensive repair in the scheme of things. The instructions above in johnceggleston's post as well as the SVX write-up that Manarius linked to are both good - if you can't do this job yourself you can still find someone at a shop that can follow these excelent instructions. It's a simple wireing task that should take no more than 30 minutes. I wouldn't pay more than $100 to have this done so don't let someone tell you it's a nightmare and is going to cost a fortune. I don't know where you are located, but if you post up your location and ask for help there may be someone in your area that can assist. If you are near Portland, OR I would be glad to take care of the whole thing for you for $50. GD

Easy: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=202183868&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&ci_sku=202183868&ci_src=14110944&cm_mmc=shopping-_-googlebase-_-D25X-_-202183868&locStoreNum=4018&marketID=54 + http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944996000P?vName=Tool%20Catalog&cName=Mechanic'sTools&sName=Drive%20Tools%20&%20Ratchets&sid=IDx20070921x00003a&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=00944996000P + http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=22mm+impact+socket&cid=2140107396625314653&ei=8K2WTN7vLpi4iwTI672fCw&sa=title&ved=0CAcQ8wIwADgA#p Takes about half a dozen good solid blows generally. Pull radiator, slip socket and ratchet over the crank bolt, smack toward the end of the ratchet - reset the posistion of the ratchet and repeat till the bolt spins free. It's just like using an impact but no air supply and works with the engine in the car (or out). This is how it's done at the junk yard. Works every time. Incidentally, this method works for alternator pulley bolts, cam pulley bolts.... etc. Just about anything that spins and can't be easily held or stopped from rotating. GD

It's interesting to note - just about the only modern car I've worked on where it's easier to pull the engine for a clutch job (because pulling the engine is so easy) is a Subaru. Honda's, Toyota's, VW's, etc - generally easier to drop the transmission since there's so little clearance to try and get the engine free in a transverse application. Usually easier to do the transmission on American stuff too - since even the RWD's have heavy engines and most of those being trucks (or vans ) have the clearance underneath and are difficult to wrangle the engine out of. Is it any wonder that I swear a lot when working on anything but a Subaru? GD

It will accelerate faster and top out quicker. You will have to shift more quickly. Basically all the gears are shifted down to increase the RPM's in each gear. This puts the engine higher in the power band and means that the gear tops out faster. It means you'll need to shift more often. It's "sportier" for lack of a better word. But it does decrease the top speed that the car can reach (typically not an issue for american driver's as long as it can do 90 ). GD

No. GD

You cannot use non turbo heads - they are single port while the turbo's are dual port. The fuel/ignition system of the 86 and 87 are not compatible. They changed the entire system in 87 such that parts from 85/86 models are completely different and not compatible. The distributors are optical in '87 and up and mechanical/hall effect in 85/86. Basically nothing about those two years you have is compatible with regard to the FI/ignition systems. GD

You need to inspect all the data streams as you are trying to do in your other thread about cables/software, etc. It's obviously something that the ECU isn't detecting so you are going to have to check the data from the sensors yourself and determine the problem. GD

The only thing I've heard reccomended is the Trans-X that can sometimes help with torque bind. I wouldn't use anything but plain Dexron ATF myself. Some of the 4EAT's shift a little hard - just their nature I think. I've never seen that it's a sign of impending failure though. GD

Yes - the EJ automatic's (4EAT) are very reliable and with an occasional flush they will easily last the life of the car. They are more reliable than the 5 speed's. GD

Thanks for the experienced answer to that question. I may give this a chance on my wheeler - the big zip ties are now availible almost everywhere and they are super cheap. Good to know they last longer than I had thought they would and are strong enough to keep the boot on. GD

Straight back in the center of the firewall. It's the amplifier for the spark signal from the ECU. Definitely could be due for an O2 sensor at 95k. GD

I think the easiest way to use that chinese tester is to *assume* it's not very accurate but get some baseline readings from new batteries of similar size to what you typically test with it. That way you can get an idea of what the tester indicates for a good battery, and then from there decide if you can live with whatever percentage of "perfect" you read from subsequent battery tests. If you normally read 600 Amps and this one is 200..... I would probably consider a replacement...... We are talking about something that costs about as much as a cheap axle but can cause enormous amounts of frustration. Personally I have one of those rechargeable jump start boxes - the Harbor Frieght one that's $50. It has saved the day on many, many occasions and was well worth the price. Frankly one of the better products I've bought from there - it would be nice if it were more powerful but it pretty much does the job asked of it in the mild climate of the PNW. Probably wouldn't handle midwest and east coast winter jumps though..... I have a set of 4 AWG jumper cables my pop bought in the 70's for that type of work GD

Non turbo - pull engine. Turbo - pull tranny . GD

That's great - sounds like he's all set. You can file on the pins of the tool and make it fit into the snap ring hole's better. Just make sure you give it a profile that's slightly wider at the end than at the base of the pin so the tendacy is for the clip to slide farther up the pin rather than off the end. It's possible to get the snap-ring's off with a couple screwdriver's and some patience - which is probably what I would have done to avoid buying an ill-fitting tool. But it's not easy. GD

Drop in a used ignitor - they can and do go bad resulting in misfire. Basically it sounds like either you are running lean, or you have a weak spark. Clean the MAF, and check the output of the front O2 sensor - could be reading rich and leaning out the mixture - the fact that it only happens once warm is a good clue - the O2 only starts reporting after it reaches a specific exhaust temperature. Below that the ECU runs in "open loop" mode because it has no O2 sensor with which to indicate mixture. GD

+1 - the stock paper filters are much better at filtration. Plus you aren't figureing the cost of the filter detergent and oil into the equation. The gauze type filters like the K&N do not trap particulates as well as the paper elements - and the paper elements do not need to be changed every few months - they are large enough to last quite a while.... unless you are near a volcanic ash cloud GD

Yeah - not a powerhouse. But it's easier and cleaner to use this deck and a cheap seperate speaker amp than to try and fit a monster deck with a huge built-in amp into the console. GD

Threw me off that you said "diff" instead of transaxle or transmission - I figured you meant the rear. But yeah - that's a minor detail and most FWD cars are built like the later "innie" rear diffs and the late model Subaru transmissions with the innie front diff. GD