GeneralDisorder

I've been there for plants and such! Neat place actually. But I'm no help on the owner of said EA82. I haven't seen it so I'll bet it's local to that area or from the south. GD

Interesting - can you tell *how* they are failing? A lot of the belt failure's I've seen that were not due to high mileage or age were from oil contamination. Has the front main, cam seals, and oil pump seal been replaced? Definitely inspect the pulley's carefully - if you need a second eye I'm close to you..... GD

Both are relatively poor ideas for a number of reasons. As mentioned the search function will tell you everything you need to know. Check the retro-fitting forum for EJ swap info. Find a Legacy. GD

Depends on what it's for. Non-interferance engines I feel a lot better about using an ebay kit. Also helps if it's going to be a 60k timing belt vs. a 105k belt - lifetime of the bearings and water pump don't matter so much with the 60k interval belts. On the 60k interval, non-interferance 2.2's (I do a lot of these), I get a full belt/bearing/seal/water pump kit from ebay for $117 shipped. I've used a number of them without any problems. GD

Sometimes the fork's get stress cracks in them - probably on cars that see a lot of inner-city driving I would guess. Fortunately the fork's aren't real expsensive - unfortunately the only way to replace them is to do a clutch job. GD

Go with the Legacy for $850 - that sounds like a good deal. Clutch kits are reasonable - I've done "budget" clutch repairs by buying only the disc, pilot bearing, and T/O bearing - usually runs about $100 for all three. Takes about half a day to lift the engine out, replace the clutch, and be back in business. Also gives you a chance to change hoses, belts, and seals while the engine is out. If I could only have one car, I would have to pick a '91 (like the body style) AWD 5 speed Legacy - it would be a tough choice to give up my EA81's, but the EJ22 is such a great engine and it's a tie for reliability between the two. Again - if I could only pick one I would go with the AWD and the 135 HP. Them being very common in the junk yards seals the deal - EA81's are getting somewhat scarce. If you aren't real mechanical - EA81's are a good choice as they are really, really simple machines. No timing belts - everything easily accesible. Reminiscent of the air-cooled VW's...... but better. Doesn't matter how cheap that EA82 is - by the time you do everything it *really* needs to be a reliable daily - you will have spent just as much as the Legacy. The Legacy will get you around in comfort and style by comparison - it can merge on the freeway, and gets the same or better mileage. It's a no-brainer really. Loyale = Fail. GD

If you liked your Legacy, don't downgrade to the EA82 - get another 90 to 94 Legacy. The Loyale was the low-end entry level model. 90 HP, push-button 4WD (not AWD), and the engine's are troublesome. I say don't - I don't reccomend EA82's to anyone anymore. Too old, too finicky, and no upside really. If you want an old 4WD with dual-range, etc - find an EA81 wagon (82 to 84). They aren't uncommon in the Reno area. GD

Disengaging close to the floor is an indication of problems with the cable or hydraulics that actually pull on the clutch fork. If it's a cable clutch it may need to be tightened. Hydraulic may need to be bled. In any case - the newer the clutch (from a clutch disc wear standpoint), the closer off the floor it will engage when the pedal is released - so it sounds (at least initially) as though the clutch may not actually be worn. Though that depends on how it feels once the actuateing mechanism is gone through to find out why it's requireing too much travel. GD

The rebuild kit will come with a basic breakdown of the parts in the kit. But it's best if you just label things and catagorize them as you go. The rebuild kit spec sheet should also have blank spaces next the part's breakdown to write in the jet sizes, etc as you remove them. Exploritory mechanicing. It's a good skill to have anyway. I can't count the number of things I've torn down that I've never seen the inside of before or even pictures in a manual - sometimes I'm not even entirely sure what those items are supposed to do...... GD

Don't - use the paper filters. They work better and no chance of fouling MAF's, etc. You won't gain anything by using the K&N style filter. GD

What do you mean by cover? Like drape a rag over them? Or are you talking about cylinder head gasket sealer's? The block is aluminium and is vertical when in the car - what good would covering them do? As for sealants - the gaskets are installed dry. Use nothing on them. GD

Cool - just PM me when you want to purchase. GD

Rear's are completely different. The bearings are like $5 to $10 each. And you aren't going to remove them without damageing them. You have to press on the inner race to remove them from the knuckle and that transmits the force through the balls - basically destroying the bearings. GD

The "hook" on the end of the EA82 choke springs wears through and falls off. At which point you have basically no choke. The other issue can be the fast idle cam mechanism isn't adjusted correctly or is sticking. It is best to remove the carb and give it a general cleaning and inspect the choke spring. Wouldn't be a bad idea to just throw a $35 rebuild kit at it and freshen it up as well - if you think you can manage a rebuild of one of these. They aren't too bad, but give some folks trouble that haven't got much experience with carbs. GD

The phase II's are good engines. The phase I's had *some* issues beyond the head gaskets - piston slap and rod failures are seen more often than in the 2.2's (unheard of). But yes - if you replace the head gaskets before dropping in the used engine they aren't bad engines. And the phase I 2.5 has an MLS gasket now due to the multiple redesign's they went through to get them to seal up. So if you get one that doesn't have piston slap or rod bearing failure issues then an upgrade to the newer head gaskets should insure a good long life. Personally I'm a fan of the 2.2 from 90 to 94. I have a lot of reasons for this, but cheifly it's before they started mucking up the design with "cost saving" changes. In '95 they started in with their modifications to save productions costs and from then on things just started to go south. Little things at first (plastic parts for belt tensioner's, etc) and moving right on up to serious design flaw's in the head gaskets because they didn't want to spend the extra money on using MLS gaskets for the non-turbo's. If they hadn't started counting the dollar-sign's in '95 they wouldn't have alienated a lot of their customer base from the dreaded "HG of doom" that's plauged them all the way through to the current models - though I hear for '10 models they have finally given in to the MLS gaskets for everything. GD

Was driving my '69 GMC pickup the other day and I guess there's an "old codger tuck wave" as well. Some guy in a '60's Ford truck waved at me . I guess after they are 40+ years old, the Ford/Chevy brand rivalry kinda diminishes. For Subaru's - only the Brat's get the wave typically. Or of course I've had some ladies (in the loosest sense of the term) hang out the window of their Jeep to "approve" of my lifted EA81 wagon. GD

You don't need a code reader for a '90. Just plug the green connectors together under the dash and the CEL will flash you the codes in morse. There is also a procedure for running a "D-Check" (Dealer test mode) that can be followed and the ECU will do a more refined check of it's systems. I don't know the procedure off the top of my head for a gen 1 EJ but someone probably will or can look it up. Are you sure the fuel lines are installed on the correct nipples? Maybe the supply and return got swapped around? Run a fuel pressure test. Just get an inexpensive 0 to 100 psi guage and T it into the fuel supply line with some FI rated hose and some brass barbs and such. Shouldn't cost much to build. If you have a Harbor Frieght around they sell a test set for reasonable. Check that the idle air control is working. Maybe it's stuck closed or something. GD

97 and up are interferance. 96 is not, but does have single exhaust-port heads. Take a look at the heads and see. If it has dual-port heads it's a 90 to 95 engine. Non-interferance. GD

The number of cylinders has nothing to do with the principles of operation of an ignition coil - upgrading the ignition coil WILL NOT help run more accesories. Period. End of discussion. Brand makes no difference. I have a '69 GMC with a 350 SB - the system is the same except it has 4 more cylinders. Subaru's use a standard GM 3-wire alternator configuration...... yes that's exactly the same system Chevy (GM) uses. Hate to say it - but you need to read up on your automotive electrical system theory. GD

Call carbsunlimited.com. You want a Weber 32/36 DGV with either electric or manual choke (if you prefer - get a cable as well if you go with manual), the adaptor plate for an EA81 (tell them it's an '84 model year, "Overhead Valve Engine"), and the SHORT air filter assembly (the tall one they normally include with the DGV won't fit under the hood). If they need to know what jetting you want, this is the recipe: Mains: 140/140 Air Bleeds: 170/160 Idle Jets: 50/50 It would be a good idea to also order a 60 primary idle jet in case you need it. Just depends on the engine - some will do fine with the 50, and some will have progression issues and will want a larger idle jet. There's plenty of threads on the install - it's pretty basic. Install the adaptor plate paying close attention to the base heat coolant passage so as to insure no coolant leakage. Mount the carb and hookup the linkage, distributor vacuum advance, and EGR vacuum if desired, and then mount the air cleaner and configure the PCV system to route to the breather nipple on the filter base. GD

I've done that before myself. Eventually you will get mostly comfortable with the car and it's quirks won't bother you as much. GD

Upgrading the igntion coil will do nothing for your extra electrical accesories and the simple fact that you think it would leads me to the conclusion that *you* should not touch your electrical system. Just put down the wire-strippers and walk slowely away from the engine bay :-\. And in any case, if you don't like being stranded on the side of the road, you should not touch your ignition coil. Aftermarket coil's are notorious for being junk. The stock coil will last forever. Don't touch it. If you want to run more stuff, you need to upgrade the alternator (Nissan Maxima 90A) and it needs to be done right - with an upgraded wire size from the output lug of the alt to the main junction and an additional fuse panel installed to run the additional accesories. You should probably have someone experienced with such things do it for you. I have a couple Maxima alts already built for sale - $100 plus shipping. They bolt straight in with no modifications. GD

Ticking lifters by themselves will not cause ANY damage to the engine - ever. You just aren't fully opening the valves when they are actuated. If your oil pressure stinks and the pump is shot you will eventually blow the #3 rod bearing. And yes - higher RPM will kill it faster. Won't hurt the valves any though Do yourself a favor and remove/inspect the oil pump, reseal it, replace the cam tower o-rings and then do what you like with the lifters. If they still tick after that it's because they are worn, dirty, or the banjo-bolt relief spring is out of spec. GD

Glad it was the simple fix - that's always a plus. GD

Right on - glad you got it fixed. GD