GeneralDisorder

There's actually 8 peices total - two rubber and two nylon for each bushing. But you should be able to remove the linkage rod and replace the bushings without removeing the pinned adaptor from the transmission. Unless you can't slide the bolt out due to the clearance. If that's the case drive out the roll pins. GD

Likely the head gaskets are blown and are pushing combustion gasses into the cooling system - causing it to overpressurize and force the coolant into the overflow bottle. Either that or the radaitor cap is bad. You can try replaceing it but they don't often fail. GD

You probably will have to drop the cross-member but it's only a few bolts. No big deal really. Driveline is similar - couple bolts and it comes down and slips out of the tranny. Once everything is out of the way just unbolt the sections where you need to replace the bushings and swap in new one's. You shouldn't have to remove the roll-pinned adaptor from the shift rod. Not as far as I can remember. GD

Pulling a Subaru engine is about the same no matter the year - EJ's are actually easier in a lot of ways. Clutch is virtually identical. Ask and see what you can work out. GD

Isn't there any Subaru guys (board members) in your area? Have you asked around for help/garage space? GD

Depends on how fast you spin it. Get it up to 50,000 RPM like a turbo and it could move some air at pressure - but the squirrel cage fan inside it would probably blow apart long before you got it going fast enough. And you would be severely limited by the fan design and size - it would approach mach 1 at the outer edges of the fan at fairly low RPM's and the forces would simply shred it like a soda can in a lawn-mower. Basically if you want low-RPM pressureized air in volume you need a positive displacement pump. Like a rotory lobe (roots style) blower. GD

Before you get nuts with adding extra's, check out the cooling system and replace EVERY SINGLE hose before you drive it much. The EA82 Turbo you have is very prone to overheating, blowing head gaskets, and cracking heads. The cooling system needs to be maintained meticulously and upgraded if feasible. Watch the temp guage like a Hawk. GD

NAPA can order them - last time I checked though the price was higher than the dealer. Call one of the online dealer's or actually go in-person to the dealer and ask them to order the thing for you. That's rediculous and if they won't help you call Subaru corporate and complain. If any dealer treated me that way I would be furious and would make a scene that would drive away customer's for weeks. That makes my blood boil just hearing about it. I'm going to have to retreat to my sanctuary and rebuild my calm with some wrenching GD

I would tend to agree with Gary. That car has a reputation for HG's, and it's now 13 years old. I would say the most the car is worth in excelent condition is $3000 for a quick sale. With bad clutch probably around $1500 or less. Clutch jobs are surprisingly expensive on Subaru's (though I only charge a couple hundred for labor typically). Why not just rent a cherry-picker and do it yourselves? $200 for a clutch kit - in an afternoon it's done. Then sell the car for $3000 as-is since the head gaskets are good right now. GD

Very common on the EJ 5 speed's. Means the rear input shaft bearing is shot. I've replaced a couple for that reason as have other members. It's either replace the tranny or rebuild it. This can happen at surprisingly low mileage. The last one I replaced only had 115k on it. I dissagree. Bad wheel bearing, bad axles, bad transmission. That's a $250 car. I bought a '91 AWD Automatic not long ago for $200. Installed a used injector (#3 had failed), replaced a wheel bearing and all the front axle boots, new timing belt/idler/seals/water pump, cleaned it up and repainted the hood and one fender (peeling clear-coat from previous minor body work). I sold it for $1400 - had about $800 into it. There's no way I would pay $800 for one with a bad tranny. Not a Gen 1. I paid $500 for a '96 not long ago with the same problem - replaced the tranny for $200, new clutch - complete 60k serivce, etc. Sold it for $2000. Those are just examples to give you an idea. Look around for a deal but don't spend your money on something that needs major repair like a tranny swap unless it's CHEAP and you can do the work yourself. GD

Your dealer can't order one? Mine can have them in a day or two. About $6 or $8 IIRC. GD

I prefer Rislone over MMO. Just a preference thing - it has worked better/more often for cleaning up gunked up engines for me. But I usually just start replacing a quart of the engine oil with ATF as it's cheaper and does about the same thing. Do that and change the oil every 1000 half a dozen times and it usually starts to clean things up pretty good. Sometimes I'll opt for the Rislone the first couple times as it seems a bit better at quieting lifters and such. GD

Definitely could have damaged it - they are designed to use a very special fluid which is no longer made. There have been some people using other (carefully selected) synthetic fluids without issue. Check the XT board for info on that. Lucas makes nothing that I would put in my vehicle. Definitely avoid their products in the future. And for the most part there is no such thing as "power steering fluid". It's hydraulic oil - typically ATF or silicone based. Subaru's (with the exception of the XT6) use ATF across the board. Don't ever put any kind of "stop leak" into a vehicle's fluids - always fix the leaks mechanically. There is no such thing as a repair in a bottle. GD

Two knob next to the ashtray - sounds like an EA81 to me. I'm guessing it's an EA81 Hatchback since you don't mention it being a Brat. If that's the case remember than you need to order parts for an '84 unless you go to the dealer. The EA81 hatch was a hold-over from the 80-84 body style. It's not a "true" '87 though they made them till '89. Check the connector between the ignition switch and the body harness - it's under the dash below the column. It's pink. Unplug it and look for burnt wireing and melted plastic. Pretty common on the EA81's. GD

EA82T's aren't worth much. Most undesireable Subaru engine. The inoperable air suspension is a common problem. The best solution is to just swap the struts for standard one's. With a bad rear bumper and needing struts all around..... 23 y/o car with an undesireable engine.... automatic (yuck)...... less than $1000. Run. GD

Yeah - the panel is pretty easy to remove. There's a few bulb holder's back there. Same with the ashtray - there's a light in there too and I think another in the cigarette lighter..... GD

By the book the torque spec is 47 ft/lbs. Most of us go to 55 to avoid having to retorque them after running the engine (and we use Fel-Pro head gaskets that don't require the retorque). Also important is the sequence they are torqued in. Get yourself a Haynes manual for a few bucks and it will give you the sequence and the torque specs. A simple search here on the board would probably reveal all this information. Give it a try. GD

It was doomed the moment it came to market. It was supposed to be the come-back of the Brat but they castrated all the cool parts. Made it a 4 door, etc. It should have been a 2 door, tall suspension, dual-range transmission, etc. As it turned out it was an Outback with no back roof . They were aiming for the 30-something crowd and what they got was the 50-something crowd. They didn't sell in the numbers needed to justify the production costs of the different body. That's not to say there is anything "wrong" with them from a mechanical or safety standpoint - very solid machine just like an Outback. Unfortunately for sales.... too much like an Outback :-\. GD

Yeah - if you didn't change the TO I would also suspect that. What is "hoon driving"?!? Should I not be calling someone a hoon? GD

It's a single cam on the EA81's. You do have to split open the block to get to it since it's mounted directly beneath the crank and is only accesible when you tear the engine completely down. It would be sensible to do a full rebuild at the same time since all that stuff is removed in the process anyway. GD

That's great! Glad it was a simple fix for you. That's a classic problem with the 3AT's and I bet more than one has been replaced when all it needed was a little governor maintenence. Hope it lasts till you get an EJ and 5 speed for it. You might want to give it a flush - change the fluid, drive it 10 miles, and then change it again. It helps them shift smoother and that can give them a bit longer life. GD

Is the part of the exhaust that is leaking something like this? http://www.amazon.com/Megan-Racing-Stainless-Steel-11112/dp/B000PVA608 If so you should be able to source the size and length he needs through the usual sources online - jegs, summitracing, etc. Stainless welds really nice too . Being an Audi - well anywhere you take it is going to see $$$$ floating over his head so you aren't likely to get any decent quotes for a repair on something like that. If it were a '76 Ford Pinto and your guy were wearing coveralls the price would drop by 80% The other option, and one that my friends with Audi's have used in the past when they needed genuine Audi parts on the cheap - start calling Audi wrecking yards. They will probably be out of state but such is the cost of ownership, etc. They can usually hook you up for a reasonable amount. Another option is to start researching "performance" exhaust systems for that car/engine combo. The A4's with the 6 are popular in the aftermarket and you might be able to get a "perfomance" header or whatever section it is he needs cheaper than a genuine replacement, etc. Troll some of the Audi forums - those nut jobs are always doing custom exhaust work and buying rediculously priced aftermarket junk to try and make 25 more HP with their track car. Cast-off stock exhaust peices probably don't command much price. Wrap the pokey-bits in cardboard and shrink wrap and UPS will ship them bare with no box . GD

They can be replaced - it takes a little work. You have to grind out the stakes to remove the old one's and then they make a retro-fit kit to replace the u-joints with a regular non-staked unit. Call up Rockford CV and talk to them. Also most driveline shops can do it. The yoke's are very soft so you have to be careful about how it's done. The joint is the same as some model of Toyota among other things. If you run some searches on the board here you should come up with lots of threads discussing this. By far the easiest solution is to just source a used driveline - they are cheap and rarely fail so it's pretty easy to find a good replacement. Shoot some grease into the joints with a needle and be on your way for less than $50 and almost no work. GD

I have a 3.9 diff that would match the 4 speed we have here. As I said we would make you a smokin deal on all the parts. I need them out of my garage and although this 4 speed is a good one, they aren't all that desireable since most folks go for the 5's and the 5's are more plentiful. I think we have every part you need besides the pedal assembly and I know where to get one locally for probably $20 - a friend of ours is parting an '82 wagon. We even have the good clutch from the Brat since he's going with the EJ22 and doesn't need any of that stuff. It's an easy bolt-in operation. I assure you it doesn't take any longer than messing with those automatic's and the 4 speed is lighter too! You can borrow my transmission jack and have it done in a day or a weekend if you are taking your time. GD

It could be done - but you would need a large leaf blower and you would want to keep the gas engine. The draw from a big enough electric motor would kill any benefits. As for blowing through the carb - there are a lot of things that must be considered - for one the fuel pressure has to rise right along with the boost pressure in order for the float to work. You have to seal the throttle shafts, and the stock emulsion tubes aren't well suited to forced induction. Tuning is a real pain due to the different sized primary and secondary barrels. You would be much better off with a single barrel or a racing 2-barrel that has identically sized venturi's that open simultaneously (like the 38/38 DGAS, but that is too large). A friend and I have done it with a 32/36 but he is currently looking at other carb options since the DGV isn't well suited to his plan of 15 psi (currently running at 7 psi). There are a lot more considerations than I listed above - that's just a start to the issues you will have. Better, as Qman mentioned, to just swap the cam and install a nice big Weber carb. You'll have all the torque you want with none of the problems associated with forced induction. GD