GeneralDisorder

Stock jetting is fine for an EA81. Stock carb also has an electric choke so you just have to use the applicable wire that's already there. Make sure you get the short filter. The tall one's don't clear the hood without a lift. GD

Is there any power coming into the rev sensor connector? GD

Someone probably has. And from what I've seen on show cars with tucked wiring..... 50/50 chance it even ran when they were done. Totally stupid. Cars like that don't get driven. They get rolled off a trailer and rolled back on. Because driving them with the fuse box in the wheel well wrapped in 3 rolls of duct tape and with the wipers, door handles, and that ugly firewall "shaved" they aren't practical and are unreliable $hit heaps. GD

That's the standard EA82 water pipe. Discontinued. Any pipe from 85 to 94 should work the same. Those rot out frequently. Thus why they are NLA - sold out long ago along with oil pumps and all the other bits needed to keep the EA82 running. GD

It's a system rich code. It's only going to trigger if the system is pulling like 25% fuel for a period of time. You need someone that's familiar with interpreting live data and has an in-depth understanding of closed loop fuel control. It's not that complicated to troubleshoot. And no - the ECU isn't "just too sensitive". That's a cop-out from a mechanic that doesn't know his business. GD

Something is entirely wrong about your measurement process or your timing marks, etc. The engine wouldn't run 40 degrees retarded. If you can't get an accurate reading on the marks and timing light then just set it to wherever it runs, dial it in to a 750 RPM idle and advance the distributor till you get some pinging on heavy load with premium then back it off a couple degrees and send it. First rule of tuning - give the engine what it wants. The actual number is unimportant. The engine wants what it wants and THE ENGINE doesn't care about the number. GD

Why? The EA filters are already huge compared to most modern engines. These engines aren't particularly hard on oil or overly powerful for their size and don't really benefit from synthetics. The oil control rings are wide and not prone to coking even with $hit oil from walmart. I don't see the advantage. GD

About 3" if you use struts and springs. Maybe half that if you only use the strut. GD

Probably would be best to just get a LINK stand alone and punt the factory computer into the dumpster. That's never going to run correctly because Subaru never wrote ECU microcode for an H6 with a manual trans. That will fix all your problems except the linkage issue...... otherwise there's really no "making it right" since that's not a combination that was ever made in the first place. So there is no "Right". Standalone, dyno tune, throw the factory garbage in the dumpster. Replace the linkage. Done. GD

Exhaust is virtually identical between the two. Same header on both cars. GD

Easy - sell the Outback and buy a Legacy non-Outback wagon. Standard legacy stuts and springs would lower it about 3" and all the suspension cradles and bits will be dragging near the ground without removing the body spacers. Coil over that you are likely considering will ride like complete garbage. You aren't going to get into a coil-over with decent ride quality without spending minimum $1200. Probably more than a 96 OBW is worth. Honestly just buy the car you really want - it's easier to pass the Outback on as-is because plenty of people want them and no one really wants the regular legacy models. They tend to be cheaper and in better shape as they haven't been "used" for camping and off-road, etc. GD

Which cylinder are you using as "number one"? GD

Why? The only benefit to multiple carbs is to use multiple, small diameter barrels. This effectively increases throttle response without the detrimental effects of single large barrels and their associated loss of vacuum signal. You can get basically the same effect from a progressive or a synchronous twin barrel carb like the 32/36 DGV, or the 38/38 DGS. The 38 DGES is essentially two 38mm singles if you use the synchronous linkage. And you can get them brand new. GD

Yep. They said it's because they couldn't get enough usable cores to supply the program. But yet they are still selling the back inventory of remans - now with no core charge because they no longer want the cores. The silly thing is they are ALSO revamping the pricing on new axles. We just ordered an axle for like a 2009 and they had some reman axles available for $199 with no core, or a new NTN axle was $239 as they have lowered the pricing to make remans and alternative aftermarket crap less desirable vs. new OEM. I don't expect the STI axle pricing to change though. Likely going to be $499 still on those. GD

Get factory new axle from Subaru. Aftermarket are junk and remans aren't appropriate for turbo models. Subaru discontinued their reman axle program. GD

You can dink around with all that garbage and scrounge around in scrap heaps for parts..... that's great if that's what gets you "rooted" as you fellas put it. Me - I want more. And frankly I want so much more that I have all but moved on from Subaru's in general. I hang out here to help folks and get a hearty laugh at the n00bs that think they are going to reinvent the world around some clapped out yard ornament and the clouds will part and rays from heaven will bless them for..... IDK where I'm going with that but you get the general idea. Subaru engines are good - for what they are. A small 4 cylinder that can hold up to reasonable abuse and make pretty reasonable power for their weight. But If you want REAL power and you want it to last more than a few passes or a race season..... these aren't it. And the EA stuff is dead - I charge a LOT of money for my time and expertise - it's not WORTH paying me or spending that time myself scrounging for parts that are difficult to find and are only going to get harder to find in the coming years. Some people get a real hard on for that type of thing because it's "old" and it's "rare"..... but the reality is - if it were so damn good, someone would still be making parts for it - like the Chevy Small Block and Big Block. Here in the US, we have a rich and beautiful history of making amazing machines from a golden era. That being the 1950's through the 1980's or so. Heck GM made the gen 1 SBC all the way through 2000. That's 45 years of production. And they still make later generations of the same engine as well as crate engines and parts for the gen 1 stuff. It's pretty amazing that in 2020 I can build a 400 HP small block with off the shelf brand new parts using a 1997 Vortec I picked up for $200 (fully dressed). I picked up my Jimmy with a blown engine for $2500 (hydro-locked due to a poor HG replacement, and threw a rod), dropped in a $1500 engine and trans combo from a friend (350 HP, built 700R) and was on the road for like $4500 with 350 HP in a 4" lifted Blazer with 35's. It's absolutely terrifying at WOT. GD

Best to get everything from a similar year Forester XS or XT and get the matching parking brake cables. That way when you go to buy parts you don't have a red headed bastard on your hands that requires a build sheet. GD

What do you mean by "stage 2"? You didn't post the pics. 88 to 94 are interchangeable. 86 and 87 require a repin of the distributor IIRC. Factory service manual will have this information in the form of wiring diagrams and pinouts. The idle control on these cars was primitive and horrible, and when you create a giant vac leak by pressing the brakes and actuating the vacuum booster, you will get an idle fluctuation. That's fairly normal. GD

LOL. Hot garbage. Avoid. GD

Not true anymore. That's old information. The new LED sealed beam replacements are DOT approved complete housings with integrated LED's that are designed specifically to have correct beam geometry. I have a set of the newest style in my Trans Am and they rock. Also really cheap now. About $65 for the set and they aren't glass so no more rock chip cracks or holes, and the elements last basically forever. GD

Yes you can flat tow the manual. One of the RV dealers near me uses a Baja XT 5 speed as their tow-behind RV transport between sales lots. Drive the RV to the other lot, drive the Baja back. GD

Use NTN or NSK. Anyone still selling the ball bearing version is to be immediately avoided. Those were superseded due to high failure rate. Get all the seals from Subaru. Subaru has specifically disallowed use of a press as it can deform the bearing pocket. The only authorized bearing replacement method is the on-car screw press. You have a better than average chance of the knuckle being damaged and unrepairable if you attempt to use a hydraulic shop press. DO NOT do that. GD

Why don't you check the plug and try installing it? Hella is based in Germany and are not common sealed beams here in the US. Not likely anyone on this forum has any clue. GD

You *could* just jumper it out. It already has incoming power for the pump. Basically look for the two biggest wires going into that module and make a wire with a couple male spades on it to jump across the connector. Pump should run that point. Probably won't be ignition switched.... not sure on that. You could also use an oil pressure switch from a GM in place of the rev sensor. Or you could mount the fuel tank on the roof and gravity feed the carb. There's as many creative solutions as there are stars in the sky. But I would just check the solder joints on the board or replace it with a new unit that does the same job if it were me. I don't see the point in fighting it that hard. GD

It's a revolution sensor. It stops the fuel pump if the engine isn't running. The blue version is also used to power the carb electric choke on the feedback models. How do you know it's "bad"? Check the solder joints on the board. This will do the same job: https://www.amazon.com/Revolution-Electronics-Electric-Controller-Primes/dp/B00BNZ05JM GD