GeneralDisorder

It's pretty much the same. Good luck finding a good one for an 11 though. The damn things are just garbage. GD

No. Nothing from a Justy will work..... except the steering wheel. GD

It's overkill. Run the 10mm. GD

The JDM engine suppliers always say something like "40 - 60k miles". What they don't tell you is that is an average and the older the vehicle the less likely that is to be true. They have no idea what the mileage of any specific engine is - they don't get that information and even if they did it isn't likely to be true because the scrap yards in Japan will just make up numbers and send pictures of whatever odometer they have laying around to appease the buyers. Also - JDM engines are a doubled edged sword. Yes they may have low mileage - but it's a cultural thing not a "law" as some believe and some people in Japan don't do any significant maintenance because they know they will get a new one in a few years. Also they tend to be short tripped a lot and that's really hard on the engines. Subaru's have exceptionally tight main bearing clearances due to their aluminium block design and so require careful warm up and maintenance. As with many things - you get good ones and bad ones. I have seen plenty of both. Usually heavier on the good side but I have sent engines back because they were UGLY inside and I didn't want to run them. GD

Even if all the valves (or just one) were bent, they wouldn't hit the piston once it's properly timed. They close they just don't seat. Also this would show as extremely excessive lash (like 1/4" of it). I've already explained what is most likely going on with your engine. It's dying. As the rod cap reaches bottom dead center it's hitting the block casting. Probably the #2 rod is hitting between the cylinder liners on #1/3 GD

No

Rocker arms will all have lash when on the back side of the cam lobe. You will have to put each cylinder in the correct position to check the valve lash. Lash should be about .008" on intake rockers, and .010" on exhaust rockers. And yes - it's likely that if the lash it good it will fire up no problem. But it's probably on it's way out. I bet it knocks when you first start it after an oil change doesn't it? Likely has severely worn rod bearings. GD

Don't worry about it. Just run ATF in the diff. It will be fine. GD

Heli-coil, properly installed, is stronger than the original part. We prefer to heli-coil the tensioner brackets and we do it often. Check valve lash. If the timing is right and the lash is good then very likely there's a very sloppy rod bearing that's about to start making noise. Turning it by hand gets the rod cap bolt hung up on part of the block. I've seen this a few times. They can often run a long time this way but in no way is it a good thing. GD

Most likely the rear input shaft bearing. GD

The 3AT's suffered from pump drive spline failure. Replacement parts don't exist. EJ22's will far outlast any of the EA's given the same maintenance, and make twice the power. There's no need to run around with 85 HP when you can have 137 and THE SAME reliability and economy. Especially when you can't get any hard parts for the EA engines anymore. GD

They don't exist. You have to find used ones. GD

Don't mix brands and models of tires. They can vary dramatically in diameter regardless of tread wear and size ratings. GD

We generally recommended pulling the intake and replacing everything including doing a silicone turbo inlet. We like the ones from Tomei. GD

That was originally soft tubing. It turns hard from the engine bay heat near the turbo. That is one of the hoses for the boost control solenoid. Replace it with generic silicone vacuum hose. GD

Yeah the TCU is probably on it's way out. Could be solder joint problems. You can try baking the TCU circuit board in the oven to reflow the solder. And if there's any bulging caps, replace them. But that may only be a temp solution. Unfortunately this is what happens with 30 year old electronics. The ECU in my 90 Legacy loaner had about 6 codes that would never go away - put a LINK ECU on it ($2,000 in standalone hardware.... but it's an R&D car for EJ swaps into Vanagons....) problem solved. The original ECU in my 86 Trans Am died from a solder joint or circuit board crack issue. Seen plenty of newer Legacy models (05 to 09) have dome light passenger airbag indicators fail from solder joint cracks as well as the entire HVAC/Stereo units in those cars. Aging electronics will be the death of most cars that have no support for new replacement modules and can't otherwise be repaired. The 4EAT.... unfortunately there's no standalone controllers so once all the original TCU's die or aren't obtainable, etc..... basically it's a manual swap or scrap it. Unless someone wants to build a controller with an Arduino.... GD

Almost certainly going to be a head gasket. GD

Yep that's the one. We use that pump on all our engine builds. GD

Negative. Those cheap black painted pumps (and and Orbit branded "ACL" pumps) have serious problems with the relief valves sticking open and producing zero pressure on startup. Use an 11mm oil pump for an STI. You don't need a 12mm. Those are for twin turbo applications and engines with AVCS, etc. GD

One of my loaners is a 1990 Legacy (first year) with 340k on the original engine and transmission. I got it for basically free from the original owner. For the price, availability, reliability, and ease of replacement parts, the Legacy wins in every category. The 3AT was absolute trash. The vast majority of the remaining EA chassis cars that still operate are manual transmissions. And regardless of what ANYONE says, the EA82 is a giant pile of unobtainable parts and is a nightmare to work on compared to the EJ22. And who doesn't want 60% more power and the same economy? The oil pump from a 2020 STI will fit a 1990 EJ22...... the EJ engine is Subaru's Small Block Chevy. Everything that came before is simply a museum artifact. GD

It does but the phase II 2.2 is hot garbage. GDh

Use a brass drift and knock it out with a hammer. It's not a seal retainer - the seal just pushes in from the outside. It's a bearing race pocket and front diff lash adjuster. The seals are $11 from the dealer. GD

It is not a "good" (read economically viable) idea to fix it at all. Those 3AT transmissions were THE DUNG. And finding enough parts to do a manual swap 30 years on is going to be a big challenge. The manuals were ok, but of course the EA82 engine is also THE DUNG so..... Yeah. Can't get parts for.... Any of it. No oil pumps, very hard to find major engine internals, and those engines were unbelievably underpowered. Option 4: Sell it. Buy at least a Legacy. They are DIRT cheap and are infinitely better in basically every conceivable way. GD

ECU is 30 year old "Japanese Electronics" (hot garbage). Could be a cracked solder joint (thank you lead free solder!), bad component, or cracked PCB. Doesn't really matter it's junk. Either replace it or wire up a LINK ECU and Dyno tune it. GD

Of course it has to be a 25D car. Presumably and auto..... Gross. But yeah with 20k..... I would swap it to 251 pistons, put STI head gaskets in it and I would definitely get $12k for that hot garbage. I most certainly wouldn't keep it. GD