GeneralDisorder

They are not even close to the same. Move along. GD

Whole lotta nope. That's garbage unless you bore it oversized. Not likely worth the effort and custom pistons. Just huck that out behind the dumpster. GD

That's the body side hard line headed back to the trans. Can likely order a new hard line set from Subaru. Just runs down the frame rail for a short distance and transitions back into hose again. Or just run hose the whole way. GD

The dealer absolutely can get a reman short block for that vehicle. GD

Whole lotta nope. Rip it all off and install a Weber. Only hope of making that junk run again. Better yet - scrap that heap and buy a $500 Legacy with the money you would have spent on a Weber and associated frustration trying to make that lawn ornament anything but. GD

Gasket is not sufficient. The adapter's don't always cover the port since the port is not always in the same place. It's a casting and that port is cast so it moves around. Some will seal, but most will not. Best thing to do is epoxy that port closed. GD

Don't. It just causes abnormal tire wear. Get a lift kit. GD

Have to get Subaru OEM power steering pumps. Aftermarket are always complete trash. I won't install them even if the customer offers to buy them. I just flat out refuse. When they do work it's for a short time and then they take a dump. I have better luck just resealing them myself or getting used ones. About 80% of the aftermarket pumps we have tried just won't ever stop whining and you can never get the air out no matter what you do. Lost cause. Get a new Subaru pump while you still can or a reseal kit from Subaru and fix your original. It's not the rack. They can leak, but they don't just stop working. GD

The kit's are terrible. Include nothing that you actually need. All you need is the carb, adapter, and short filter. The kits include the tall filter which doesn't fit under the hood without a lift kit. GD

No that's just silly. Get some King springs for the rear from Primitive Racing. Will stiffen it up and allow more cargo and trailer weight, etc. GD

OEM is typically Diamond. Hitachi is one of many "OEM manufacturers" - means they make parts for Subaru. Alternators for one. Not sure about coil packs. The good one's are typically Diamond. Try eBay. Or yards where they pull the parts for you. Or - here's an idea - buy a new one from the Subaru parts department! GD

They are garbage. What more do you need than the experience of this board? We wouldn't confidently say these things if we didn't have the experience to back it up. Some of us do this for a living. GD

Doesn't work on anything newer than 2004. 2005+ have to have the ECU flashed with open source tools to disable the post-cat fuel trim and secondary O2 codes, etc. GD

Not in all cases. EGR is good for the engine and fuel economy. Keep it. GD

Replace the coil GD

If you want it to work and last and not f*ck up all the time, get it from Subaru. GD

Most radiators are about $80 to $90 wholesale. Used is a waste of time. Also this thread is from 2011. Why? GD

Wrong forum. That's a GL. And manual swaps have only been covered twice a week for 20 years on here so just use the search function. GD

The factory service manual has the pinout. GD

Exactly

Long discontinued. Have to make your own. GD

Send it to the smelter. If someone really wanted to, they could install an external pump. GD

Don't forget the compression height. That's the distance from the wrist pin to the piston face. That changed along with rod length. You generally want to keep pistons and rods together as a set since Subaru selected the rod length and compression height to match the chamber volume and HG thickness to achieve a specific compression ratio and quench. GD

The dome shape of the right piston in unfamiliar to me. Watch what you mix and match because the compression height, and connecting rod length is not the same on all EJ engines. You can really screw yourself if you don't take all factors into account. You need proper compression and proper quench or you will end up with something that has no power either due to low compression or compression so high it can't handle any timing on pump gas. Ideal compression on high octane pump gas is about 10 to 10.5 depending on cam profile, etc. 8.5 for turbo charging. Compare that to E85, where ideal NA compression is about 21:1 GD

The "high torque" CVT's seem better. Introduced on the H6 and turbo models. I want to say like 2015 or 2016. 16's with the 3.6 definitely have them. And the turbo cars. The rest were straight garbage and there's no fix. The junk yards are always tapped out of them due to demand. They are going the same way as the CVT Justy. In a few years they will be gone from the roads. We swapped in a "good" replacement from a reputable national yard in an 11 not long ago and it went 20 miles then just stopped. Had to be pushed into a parking lot. GD