GeneralDisorder

The crankcase does end up with a tiny bit of pressure - but you aren't pulling IN any fresh air - there is no POSITIVE displacement present. Acidic blow-by simply displaces the "fresh" air present in the crankcase and soon becomes the only gasses present - it is absorbed into the oil and eats bearing surfaces - it will etch metal. Back before the days of PCV valves, positive displacement was accomplished with a road-draft tube but that isn't passe anymore. You need a way to pull in fresh air - the piston pumping action will not do that without a valve to stop it from sucking back on the upstroke the same amount it tried to displace on the downstroke. The PCV valve is the solution - it's clean and simple. It's important to note that there will be no PCV action durring boost - when the manifold pressure goes positive the valve slams shut and for the time that the engine is under boost it does not function. GD

It's a bit different when you wrench every day of the week for a living. I had a Craftsman box for a while - it was ok till I ran out of space in it. The problem is that if you want to go up into the 40"+ sizes with large, deep drawers, the Craftsman stuff is not any cheaper than the Snap-On box I bought used - but the quality isn't as good. Ball-Bearing slides are all the rage now and don't get me wrong - they are very nice, but you put my Snap-On greased slider box alongside a cheapy BB unit and you won't see much difference. For reference, if I were to buy a comparable (but brand new) Snap-On box to the one I got for $750, I would be looking at around $2500 - only real difference would be BB slides and shiny, new paint (and me a lot lighter in the wallet!). It was also a good way to befriend the Snap-On guy that is at my work every Thursday - It's a good relationship to have in my business - If I'm in a jam and need a tool I know I can call him and he'll be there. He's quite fair and routinely gives me discounts far in excess of the retail price from the Snap-On web site. Plus I don't have to pay all at once and there's no interest on my account with him. It's a good deal for me anyway. GD

Assuming you don't care about hurting the engine internals or are planning to change your oil every 500 miles it should be fine. The PCV is only indirectly related to emissions. It's primary function is to remove acidic blow-by gasses from your crankcase. Valve cover vents will not accomplish this as there is no positive flow. GD

My local Snap-On guy has a collection of used boxes that he makes available to his customers at considerable discount. I got one similar to Rob's above but it's an 8 drawer bottom and a 12 drawer top with a side cabinet for $750. Was a good deal for me as I am able to make payments to him (not Snap-On) of $25 a week and there's no interest, etc. When I decide to upgrade he will take it as trade also. Plus I can throw the occasional new tool on my "truck account" with him and it's the same deal - $25 a week. It's kinda neat to have some of the vintage stuff - my top box is a 1969 model and the front is covered in vintage stickers. It doesn't have BB slides but I don't have any issues with it. Works great, lifetime guarantee, and the price was right. GD

EA82's didn't come out till '85 so all of those part numbers will be wrong. The PDF is probably differentiating between top mount starter and side mount starter..... You need a parts breakdown for an '85 or newer (4WD). GD

That's because the 2WD EA82 tranny is a carry-over. It's the same as the EA81 tranny and thus uses the EA81 clutch fork - same as the EA81 4WD's used. GD

No - it will not. All the cyclops grills were for dual headlamp setups - a quad lamp vehicle will not accept the dual lamps and grill without a lot of cutting and modification. The best option is to modify the stock '86 grill and install a center lamp from an '82. '80/'81 are quite a bit different and don't lend themselves to this modification. GD

EJ22's have a second throttle cable for the cruise. I'm not sure how much different it is, but you would probably want to use the EJ CC. GD

I'm sure it's just plain steel. Weld it, then heat the entire piece to red-hot with a torch - let it air cool and you should be good. That will relieve any stresses cause by the welding. GD

Yes - the procedure for bleeding the air out is to turn the wheel lock to lock about 5 times. The air will escape as it passes from the high pressure side to the return line. GD

I don't believe they are the same as the EA81's. You should be able to get a good used one at the junk yard or from the wanted forum here on this board. They are common and rarely break. You could also weld your cracked one - it would likely never break again with a bit of reinforcement. GD

That is most likely a dealer-installed EA82 CC kit. The "factory" EA81 cruise is a total mess of a system. That's one thing they improved upon greatly after the EA81's. GD

You jumped into the middle of someone else's thread with a question that we cannot answer without more detailed information - we don't even know what car you are working on!?!? Please start your own thread with the appropriate information so we can accurately address your question. GD

Wet tests don't work well on boxer engines - the oil seals the valve seats just about as well as it seals the rings. Rings are rarely the problem with these engines - the valve seats are usually the biggest compression issue. Stem seals will cause oil burning - usually the EA's need one or two valve jobs in their lifetime to stay in top running order. GD

Junkyard is the best option. You can usually find half a dozen that are good (bring your DMM) and it will probably be under $10 including the entry fee to the yard. GD

You will get an answer if you post in the older generation forum - this is not the place for specific questions. GD

For the power steering rack you have to change the whole cross-member, but yes it will work - there are no differences between 2WD and 4WD steering racks. But the power rack's take a different engine cross-member to mount up. For the cruise - you don't want the EA81 cruise system - it's a terrible affair with a gigantic vacuum pot and a double throttle cable with a big box spliced into the middle, etc. Use the EA82 system and just install the EA82 pedal assembly - the whole mess is under the dash that way and out of the engine bay. GD

Maybe '86, but I don't think the 3 door body was available in '85. I thought they came out in '87 but maybe I'm a year off. GD

Heat is sometimes the only way in my profession - getting it hot first then dowsing it with yield often wicks the stuff into the threads or helps to bust up the rust/corrosion/tar, etc. We work on all kinds of stuff - asphalt pumps are notorious for not coming apart - we had a 24" pump a while back that never did come apart - they had friction welded the shaft to the cast iron housing - had to send it out and have the shaft line-bored out of the housing because the housing was worth $18,000 and the customer wanted it saved and rebuilt. Sometimes not even a good penetrant is enough . It gets scary when you have a 50 ton hydraulic press pushing on red-hot parts that you know you can't lift even when they are cold..... GD

It's just gear oil - 75w90 will work fine. Get a couple of the squirt-bottle style quarts and fill it through some 1/2" clear tubing - use about 4 or 5 feet of tubing to clear the bumper and have a friend hold the bottle and squirt it in. There's a drain hole and a fill hole - you fill it to the bottom of the fill plug hole - just till it starts to run out then plug it. GD

That's not an RX so it's most likely a tranny-swapped Turbo GL. Probably was a push-button car originally. GD

Pictures would be helpful. GD

That's an ER27 but the issue with the radiator is similar. GD

Could be low on fluid, but if so you probably should just replace the diff. They rarely fail though - pull the rear cover and inspect it. GD

Well - if it's better than Kroil (which I haven't used) as you sugest, then it should score rather well. One thing I don't see is how long they allowed them to penetrate before performing the test. And it would be interesting to see how they perform with heat applied first or durring the application of the product. Sometimes how you apply it is just as important as what you apply. GD