GeneralDisorder

Yeah - the wires aren't new but the plugs are. I'll check it out but the idle is solid enough that I don't think ignition is my issue. I'll clean it on general principle. There's no oil in there - I've had all that apart recently. I do have MAF cleaner though so I might as well use it. Yeah - that I don't know about but I'll check for smooth operation with my MM. Yes - the EJ22T's were the 91 to 94 "sport sedan" (SS), and the 93/94 "Turbo Touring Wagon" (TTW). The wagons only came as automatics. Of the SS's the '91 is the monster - factory with the VLSD, oil cooler, etc. They cut some of the cool goodies after the first year. GD

*Fixed* - It was plugs and wires all along. See page 2 for details and pictures. This car sat for 4 years with a blown 22T, blown turbo, blown radiator, and blown heater core..... current engine is from a 93 or 94 touring wagon - should have around 110k on it. Bone stock - just getting the kinks worked out as I finally got it on the road last week. It's got a walbro fuel pump (don't know which model). Installed by the last owner while trying to troubleshoot a no start. Turned out to be the valve timing but his fuel pump install seems to be working. I had to fix the shoddy wiring job (wires twisted together and wrapped cheap e-tape) and replace some non-injection rated hose (almost killed me when it burst on the freeway )..... but otherwise it seems fine. Runs ok - idles decent at around 800. Good power for normal driving. I can feel the boost come on under 3/4 throttle or so. When I go full throttle I get some surging and fluttering - feels like it's going lean. It does this fairly consistently at full throttle. It feels like a rapid fluttering surge at lower speeds, and a power loss/slower surging at freeway speeds. I don't want to harm anything with a lean condition if it's got plugged up injectors so I've been easy on it... the gas smelled pretty nasty that was in it. It got a new fuel filter when the engine went in, and another new one after the first tank. Also threw in a bottle of techron. I have another complete manifold - I don't know if it's the original or the one from the replacement motor as I didn't do the initial engine install (it came to me half installed ). But I have a complete set of turbo injectors on the extra manifold... boxes of other duplicate parts as well. It's got no CEL after 75 miles of driving, and the CEL definitely works. I had to replace the knock sensor when I first got it running so if it was detecting a problem I'm confident it would tell me. Might be time to hookup my wideband huh? Thoughts? Things I can test? GD

My SPFI write up details how to convert an EA82 distributor to work on the EA81. It was designed for SPFI swaps, but the carbed disttributors are similar enough that the procedure should only be different in minor ways: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD

It's NLGI grade 2 "extreme pressure" grease with Moly. Basically that's a fancy way of saying it's GP moly grease. The FSM calls for "Molytex #2 or equivelent"... which is an old Texaco trade name (before they merged with Chevron). Here's a pic of what I get at my local NAPA: (the packets are a rip - buy a tube for the same price). GD

'95 and up EJ22's are OBDII and are a bigger pain in the wiring department. '97 and later EJ22's are a redesign and have solid lifters and different heads that are single-port exhaust... there were other changes as well. The 90 to 94 is the most desirable from a swap standpoint. You are still better fixing the EA81. Your compression is quite good at 170. You will be down for an extended period of time doing an EJ swap (to do it right)...... it's a bad idea for you. Ah well - over 10k posts and still people don't listen GD

5 is not a code - it's a model designation. You need to run a complete D-Check on it - maybe you'll get codes. The SPFI is not always capable of telling you every detail so you may have to help it out a bit and do all the little stuff. Just pickup a used thermosensor from a yard. You can test them with an ohmeter and some boiling water. GD

You crazy? SPFI is far and away a better system. You would have to do a lot of rewireing and changing of the fuel system to do it. Not worth it to backtrack like that. GD

We routinely use the EA81 and EA82 radiators for the EJ22's. Just because the engine *can* make more power doesn't mean it is going to most of the time. The differences in power are largely a product of larger displacement and better valve/head designs. The cooling systems are quite similar and shouldn't be a problem. GD

They are all computer conrolled MPFI, so yes you would need all the wireing and the ECU. I would sugest you consider using the EJ22 and doing the Weber carb conversion using the Ford Escort distributor. Look for threads concerning this in the modifications forum. GD

Test your coil just for giggles. GD

I didn't have to remove any spacers since I'm currently using the whole EA82 in my Brat. The original engine is slowly being rebuilt. GD

Mostly the heads. They are DOHC, larger valves, ect. They also have stronger pistons. Burly engines. The 22T has more potential in raw displacement of course, but requires more work to get there. For $2500 you can get the 20TT's and be running 275 to 300 HP without touching the long block. Both are closed deck (the early to mid 90's stuff anyway) so both are very strong. To make massive power, the 22T's need to be swapped over to different heads and pistons and ideally the piston skirt spray nozzles need to be removed (they have a tendancy to fall out and are entirely uneccesary). So to do them right you have to completely dissasemble them. So there's a lot of good reasons to prefer the EJ20TT's if you want a drop-in as they are cheap and have a lot of ponies. GD

There's no difference in the *engine*. No the exhaust won't fit but who cares? Run a (very) large single turbo using US market exhaust peices. The twin turbo block is a fine peice of machinery. GD

I have a factory 93 loyale y-pipe on my Brat as well as the EA82 from the same vehicle. I had to cut the heat sheild for the cat back on the passenger side to clear the radius rod plate on that side. Also the runners to the heads will be longer as the EA82's don't have spacers under the heads. So you would have to remove any spacers you still have in place for it to fit properly. The transmission bracket might work *if* you remove the spacers. Anyway - it wasn't a direct bolt in for me. It works though. GD

Discount is where I bought them as well. I do get a discount through my employer (one of the ancient technicians I work with owns 20 - 30 vintage VW's and setup an account there years ago ), but I didn't think it was that much. Perhaps they increased the price slightly *and* my discount accounts for the rest. Anyway - still cheap. I was paying $100 each for the GCK's and loving life. The EMPI's seem better if anything. They even come with axle nuts and cotter pins GD

A lot of work. Electrical, fuel, frame rail mods, etc. Not worth the trouble. GD

Yes - I'll be having one of those. Thanks for making them up. GD

Nope. You got took. EMPI axles (new) are $58. Bearings and seals are $25 per wheel, but are rarely done at the same time as the axle. They last a long time. 30 minutes to install the axle by a tech that knows what he's doing. $112 is still a bit lower than I would expect, but if you are doing simple jobs like this at a discount to engender good will towards potential return customers in this poor economy.... I could see it. GD

Both are metering ports for different puposes, but yeah - you can't T them together or connect them to each other. They will cause all sorts of weird (undriveable) behavior. GD

Yeah - the metering ports make things REALLY weird when there's leaks there. You can cap them off if you like - they don't do much. GD

Bumping this for an update. In frustration of trying to figure out the mileage issues I was having on the hatch (23 or so), I pulled off the metering port vacuum control valves and capped the metering ports. This made no difference at all so we can safely assume they are of little importance. At the end I was running all the mods in my first post as well as no metering ports or associated plumbing. I then couldn't handle the insanity any longer and installed my Weber (virtually brand new - bought from redline a few years ago for my wagon - less than 10k on it). Mileage actually got a little worse - dropped to about 21 or so. My mileage issue turned out to be a clogged catalytic converter housing. The honeycomb disintegrated and left behind some metal straps and some wire mesh that surrounded and held the honeycomb in place. This got all wadded up in the cat discharge pipe. I removed that and the mileage immediately increased to 25.5 on the next tank with the Weber. I have removed the muffler and mid-pipe and shook them but nothing dislodged. However I feel that there may still be pieces of the cat inside the muffler and once I fab a pipe to replace it it's going away as well. Straight pipe's on EA81's aren't all that loud anyway. I'll see if that helps. I know the Weber is capable of over 30 MPG in it's current jetting as I have achieved that with it on my wagon when it was 2WD. I expect around another 1.5 to 2 MPG increase by freeing up the exhaust. That should translate to very close to 30 MPG with the original Hitachi..... I haven't decided if I'll put it back on or not. SPFI is calling my name and my 91 SS will be on the road soon for daily driving duties. GD

Well - have you removed the top of the carb and inspected the top cover gasket and blown out the passages? You very well may need to replace the top cover gasket and you may as well rebuild the carb in the process as I haven't found a source for the gasket outside of an entire kit. GD

Probably not. Your problem is almost certainly manifold gaskets or carb base gaskets. Why? Do you suspect it's leaking? They rarely fail. Sure - those take 10 minutes. Coat them in RTV and let the dry - they will be more effective. Also easily done in 30 minutes. Same advice as valve cover gaskets. Get both from the dealer ONLY. Redline sells an adaptor plate. Install takes an hour or two. Tuning will take a few weeks. Unless it needs it I wouldn't bother. You can do it without pulling the engine - just remove the radiator and pull the engine up and forward. Yep - every 15,000 Atsugi (OEM). 30 minute job. Are you? Or is it vacuum leaks causing a lean idle? Straight pipe it. Sounds better and cheaper. Gut the cat too. Cut a door and dump the contents. Weld it up and bolt the heat sheilds back on. No one is the wiser. Word to the wise - EJ swaps are best left to those of us that have mechanical backgrounds. Fabrication skills are a requirement. Only the most basic components are availible from a select few vendors (like the adaptor plate). Welding and metal working skills and tools are almost a must. 150k is nothing for the EA81. Most last long past 300k if maintained. The engine internals are almost never a problem - the reason they get crushed is the fuel and ignition systems. People understand little about carbs these days and don't wish to pay more than the car is often worth for expert repair of these systems. The engine's are bulletproof. Not even close. The engine, adaptor plate, and exhaust mods are almost an afterthought to the *actual* work which is the electrical and fuel systems. You are MUCH better off with an entire donor car to pull the harness and fuel system components from. The Brat's fuel tank is not baffeled so a surge tank has to be fabricated. The entire harness removed from the car and merged with the injection/ignition systems from the EJ harness, ECM mounted, etc, etc. LOTS of people get the engine IN the car. Many, many fewer people get them wired and running (and the ones that do take months to do it). Much more realistic for you. 1/10th the cost too. You need the whole car. Prefereably running. For reasons previously mentioned. Your compression is likely fine. Buy a $10 gauge and test it yourself. If you can't do *that* yourself you won't get past speculation on an EJ swap. Being you mention salt it's possible the y-pipe was swapped from a 2WD. You are just as screwed for EJ swap cars then because they are the same years. 90 to 94 legacy for an EJ swap, or 90 to 94 Loyale for an SPFI swap. These are NOT basic wireing diagrams. The ECU has a LOT of pins. Doing the wiring *right* almost requires removing the cars existing harness and merging the parts you need from the legacy harness. More power leads will be needed, and the existing wireing splices and plugs need to be R&R'd to insure you don't have any problems. The EA's are notorious for bad electrical connections and I assure you - you don't want to deal with them AFTER you have hacked the piss out of the wireing. GD

What exactly have you "yarded" out? Emissions systems account for only a small percentage of all that stuff. You really need to understand the operation of the Hitachi before you start removing stuff. GD

1. Did you use OEM gaskets? Aftermarket are VERY different and inferior. 2. Did you chase the threads both in the heads and of the bolts (wire wheel, etc)? 3. Did you oil/anti-seize the bolts before torqueing them? 4. What is the range of your torque wrench? in/lbs or ft/lbs? 5. Did you tighten them in a star pattern, starting with hand tight, 7 ft/lbs, and then the full 15 ft/lbs? GD