GeneralDisorder

How do you know it was a spun bearing? Could be a wrist pin, or a rod bearing. Could be a lot of things really.... My bet would be on a broken rod that just didn't happen to fly through the block like they normally do. But to really know you would have to tear it down. GD

It would not be a "mistake". If it's not 4WD, then the vehicle has been modified, or the dash is not original. Look at the VIN on the title. That's the only one that matters. It sucks if that says it's a 4WD and it's not because insurance companies will insure it according to the VIN, and they charge more for 4WD's. My 2WD wagon that's been converted to 4WD is cheaper than a real 4WD to insure. I even tried to tell them it was 4WD now (I converted it)..... they just said "we go by the VIN" and wouldn't listen to me. Their loss I suppose. GD

That simply is not true. The fuel pressure regulator vac line cannot be removed and still have the SPFI run correctly. Besides - he shouldn't be attempting this till he understands what each of these devices does, and what he is potentially losing should he remove them. There are pro's and con's to each. Also you aren't going to get a single ounce of extra performance for your trouble. So unless you just like things to look clean, you shouldn't touch it. GD

The 85 will not have the neutral switch for the SPFI. This will result in a CEL if you don't rewire the switch to something like a cruise control "bolt" switch on the pedal. You could also swap to the 87 to 89 "black" ECU and then wire the neutral switch pin to the Loyale's existing clutch switch. All the light switches (backup, 4WD, etc) will need to be rewired as the connectors are wrong on the 85. Mechanically it will bolt up. Use an XT6 clutch if you want better performance. GD

The low on FT4WD's is only 1.2:1, and the diff is 3.7 unless you do a custom build. That makes them basically the same as the high range on a 3.9 D/R when they are in low. So in a sense they really don't have low at all, but rather a "higher" high. The low on a normal part-time 4WD is 1.59:1, and the diff is 3.9. Making them a completely different animal. Much more suited to slow speeds. The 3.7 (in high range) can give better fuel econemy, but it's really designed for the higher power output of the turbo's that it came on, and to be able to run in 4WD all the time without breaking stuff. GD

Dealership, if you don't value your first-born. Contact Jerry (Bratsrus1). He lives in your area and may be able to direct you to a place that has what you need or may have it himself. GD

That is definately a 4WD control arm. Refer to my previous post on how to fix it as it was correct. I'm fairly certain what you are seeing is the very tip of the DOJ joint, complete with dust sheild. It looks to have been cut - through the end of the joint, and through the splined spindle. Ostensibly because the axle was rust frozen to the splines. You can see the bearing ring nut beneath that trashed dust sheild.... GD

Leave it be unless you know what it does. SPFI (any FI) is not to be trifled with till you understand it. Once you understand it, you will no longer need to ask this question. GD

'89 STD Hatchback.... Replace EA71 with an EA81 and install the EA82 SPFI, and the EA82 5 speed D/R. Add a 3 gauge cluster with oil pressure, volts, and coolant temp. That would be THE most reliable combination possible. Done right and properly maintained I could easily see such a machine going well over 500k. If you absolutely must have "turn-key" then a 90 to 94 Legacy is the best bet. Not only easy to maintain, but parts availibility is excelent for at least the next 10 years or more. GD

The cone washer, and possibly it's seat in the wheel hub are worn out. Replace both. Replace the axle as the splines are shot from working around loose on the hub splines. Replace the nut (probably comes with the axle), sping washer and cotter pin for good measure. Been here a few times - got the t-shirt, etc. Trust me - I know it sucks, but it's the only way to stop the madness. Place the spring washer on a flat table surface and press on the edge with your finger tip. If the opposite edge rises off the table, the side you are touching goes IN. The edge of the spring washer should contact the edge of the cone washer, and the middle of the spring washer should contact the nut. GD

I would run it. As long as it doesn't touch the gasket it should be fine. This isn't a race engine so this "hot spot" theory is horse puckey. If it was turbo, or a high RPM engine..... maybe. But probably not even then. Lots of combustion chambers are not polished in regular street engines. Fixing it would cause more harm than good. Take a polishing stone and smooth out the high spots if there are any. GD

Could be an EA81 backing plate with manual adjuster too. It's really hard to tell from the pictures. Couldn't be a 2WD spindle in a 4WD arm as the spindles are WAY different and not interchangable. GD

Depends on the condition of the wheel bearings if you need more than the spindle or not. As for a source - junk yard, or a member on here. They just drive the spindle out of the bearings with a dead blow or brass/copper hammer. Should not be much more than $10 - $20 at the junk yard, or ~$50 if you want the whole control arm/hub complete with bearings (easier to install). New rear bearings run about $50 a side. So unless you plan to reuse the bearings - which I probably wouldn't, but have in the past due to monetary conditions..... probably about a $10 fix if you just replace the spindle, or about a $50 - $75 fix if you replace the control arm, or install new bearings. By far the best way would be to get a used spindle, clean it up, and install new bearings. GD

You just need to find a good supplier of metric fasteners. Bolts are what's known as "bulk shop supply" and are not generally ordered. Although they do have part numbers most of the time. Find one that fits and has enough thread engagement (generally 1.5x the width of the fastener). GD

EJ22 ECU's are not the same. But EJ22T ECU's are. MT and AT used the same ECU for the T's. GD

You need the spindle - looks like the splined portion has sheared away. Take it apart and you will see. GD

Junk yard, but most likely even if you find one that isn't cracked it still won't operate correctly. You will have to dissasemble it to see exactly how it works and come up with a suitable replacement that performs the same function. I would guess that it's designed to open the emulsion tube vents(?) to a filtered air supply when the engine reaches a specific operating temperature. You could do the same thing with a few regular vacuum valves by T'ing them together in the neccesary orientation. But really this is all acedeminc. You aren't going to notice a bit of difference doing all this work vs. just leaving the thing out, and leaving the emulsion tube vents open to the filtered air supply line. At least Skip's scan gives you an idea what to block and what to route to filtered air. You have to stop thinking like you are - you have a burning desire to replace this silly plastic peice because you have no faith in your own abilities to figure out what it's purpose is, decide if it's right for YOU, and then either eliminate it or find a suitable alternative. It's depressing to see such narrow-mindedness. Go forth and be inventive. Just because it came that way doesn't mean it has to be put back to "stock". Find you own "stock". GD

Possibly. Some EA81's didn't use the ASV spacers. Others had only one. Could be an engine from a car that only had a single spacer. Or could be a head from one. No way to tell at this point. Yep - such is often the case with 20 year old cars. Many cooks with their hand in the stew. My co-worker just found the timing off on his Samuri. Drove it for a year with the valve timing off a tooth. PO's (previous owners) suck. GD

There's mine... http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html At the bottom is a link to download Snowman's original write up which was geared to EA82's specifically. Mine is for EA81's. You'll need some info from both given the nature of your setup. GD

No - that's not factory. I've never seen shoddy assembly of an 80's Subaru. These were built entirely in Japan, and the Japanese people have an extremely strong work ethic. Their workers are very well paid, have many benefits, and strong profit sharing. Thus the reputation of Japanese cars. This was even more true in the 70's and 80's than it is today. This isn't China, Taiwan, or Korea we are talking about here - Japan is very much a first world nation, and they regard their employment as part of their "honor" and in many cases it's more important than their family. Be careful who's car's you insult around here. I'm not Japanese, but I know a few, and that kind of talk can be taken as an insult in some circles. Japanese auto workers are better paid than american auto workers if you take into acount their benefits and profit sharing. The gasket for the intermediate (ASV) plate is just a ring that fits into the groove on the top of the plate between it and the head. GD

Looks like some sort of valve to allow vacuum to draw in vapor from the charcoal canister - like a fresh air vent that only opens when the engine is running. Probably operates of a thermo-vac valve or the like. Junk it and cap the lines. You don't need it. P.S. not much of a shop if they can't figure out what it does. It's a simple matter of tracing the lines, putting some vacuum and pressure to it and seeing what happens. They could have at least figured out what it was for. Some people just shouldn't wrench at all GD

Big radiator cap means it's pre-'83. That tank style looks like a Gen 1 to me. So it's likely '79 or older. Post the pics in the Historic forum and you might get someone that know's exacly what it's for. GD

I ran into the same thing - very expensive gauges that only do one thing, but look flashy doing it. I don't need flashy, and I don't need the price of flashy either. I guess we are the only one's that see the value in it though!? Or perhaps were amongst a very small few that understand what it does and the value of it's programability.... Perhaps we'll never know. I think I'm going to get two of them and monitor each bank for EGT on my 91 SS. And perhaps a third as a boost monitor, and maybe a fourth for?? Any sugestions Skip? I like the red LED readout - reminds me of the panel from the Delorean in Back to the Future. Very 80's.... I'm thinking a panel of 4 of them together with a couple switches to switch inputs on some of them that either read similarly configured sensors, or just program them each time. I think it will look neat below the radio in my SS. GD

We have seen pictures before. Nice to know they weren't photo-shopped though. GD

If they heli-coiled them back to the stock size, you can oversize them to 7/16x14 or 7/16x20 without using a heli-coil, or if they are really far out of spec you can heli-coil them to 7/16 and you shouldn't have any trouble. Generally this doesn't even require enlarging the manifold holes. Make sure you buy/make a bottoming tap to get the last few threads as these holes are not real deep. I would also remove those remaining studs, wire wheel everything that's going back together and use plenty of anti-seize. While you have the studs out, use a sanding block and some 300 grit to clean up that mating surface and see what you really have there. The gaskets will handle quite a bit. The proper gasket for those plates is a thin 3/16" or so ring of cardboard coated metal....dealer obviously. GD