GeneralDisorder

Yes - but there's no provision for mounting it to the EA81 pedal assembly. I've never tried it, but you could probably more or less bolt in an EA82 pedal assembly - this would have the added benefit of gaining the superior EA82 style clutch cable. All the tranny switches are the same - backup lights, 4WD indicator, and neutral switch. They are just threaded into the tranny case. No need to get THAT one as many more are availible. Plus it simply won't work on the 4 speed in your hatch. Yes - it's the gold bolt looking thing. That's the CC switch - they are probably the same for EA81 and EA82. There should be a "stop bolt" in your existing pedal assembly that you remove and install the "switch stop bolt" instead. I don't have one at present, and I'm not sure when I'll get to the junk yard next. Probably a couple weeks out as I'm swamped with all manner of things right now. Not the least of which is a half-torn-apart Ford Contour in my driveway that is being a serious thorn in my side right now. $25 should be about the going rate - they aren't rare. My yards will probably charge closer to $30 or $35 but if I had one from a parts car I would part with it for $25. Ask in the wanted forum - someone's got one. GD

Even with the heater core completely clogged, it shouldn't cause any overheating. Have you verified that your temp gauge is reading correctly? I like those laser thermometers..... I had a clogged EA82 core due to some "headgasket repair in a bottle" that didn't work at all. After I replaced the head gaskets, the engine ran perfect and the temp was great - just no heat at all till I replaced the core. GD

Confirm reverse is weak on the 4's - I blew one with a Weber'd EA81. Part of the problem is the linkage wears and will not fully engage gears. Half engagement is BAD. I would swap to the five for no other reason than to get the VASTLY superior linkage. Love all my 5's - especially in the Brat. GD

I've had EA81's to 7000 or so. They do just fine as long as the valves are properly adjusted (hydro prefered). GD

Unlikely, and purely hypothetical. No one has reported that occuring. The tiny current of the relay won't produce the arcing or the high temperature's of the original circuit. If you do a pushbutton, you are replacing the failed component with another of similar design which could ostensibly fail in the same manner as the original. A relay in either case would be best. If the original switch ceased to function then a momentary pushbutton could be added to the relay circuit. Low current, smaller wires, less potential for arcing and fires. That's what relays were created for. It's not always the switch either - it's sometimes the switch connector that has melted, or in rare cases the circuit itself. I've run across both. The exact method of repair is going to depend on the specifics of the vehicle. But in all cases I prefer to keep the original switch if possible. It doesn't give me great confidence when I see wireing like this on cars I'm considering purchasing - wire nuts, electrical tape, and kludged in push buttons are signs that someone doesn't own a MM. I've personally drug people from buring cars due to electrical fires, and I deal with high-voltages and current on a daily basis. GD

A relay is more professional and works like stock by using the existing switch. Personally I would never consider hacking in a push button - looks bad and smacks of a lack of electrical understanding. GD

Yes, but just ask around on the board for a late 80's black ECU. I can get them all day long around here. And someone probably has on laying around. The way the Loyale "Clutch Switch" works would pretty much require you swap the pedal assembly from the EA82 as the switch works opposite of the CC switch I've used for the neutral switch. And if you are going to do that, then you can just use the CC switch for the neutral, and the clutch switch as normal. Also it will run fine without either of them - so worry about it later. Just don't hookup the ECS lamp when you go in for testing. I know there's another member in CA that did this swap - you might search for his thread about how he registered it. GD

The EA81T is only 95 HP. You might as well just use a regular NA EA81. The EA81T parts are quite rare as the engine was only made for two years. Turbo engine's aren't generally suited to lifted rigs as the RPM range is higher where they make decent power, and their low compression (7.7:1) sucks for low-end torque. EJ22 would be a better bet, and they can be found with less than 200k - you just have to look harder. The EJ22T in my sedan came from a 94 wagon and only had 110k on it. And I recently bought an NA 94 wagon that needed a water pump with 132k on it ($750). GD

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but 96+ would be ODB-II so aren't they just going to plug it in? As long as it passes the ODB-II test I don't see why there should be any problem. GD

While that is true, there are specifications that Subaru requires. Besides that, Subaru might be making them directly, or as one of the subsidiaries of Fuji Heavy - the PCV valves didn't change from the 70's all the way to 2002 so it's very possible that they made them. There is no plastic used in the PCV so it's not difficult to manufacture. It's definately the case that the OEM PCV's are superior to most, if not all aftermarket. And they cost $10 or less. It's also the case that the Subaru PCV's can easily be cleaned by soaking in carb cleaner overnight. All metal construction makes this easy. For this reason I've bought VERY few PCV's. This applies to thermostat's as well - the OEM part cost's about $2 - $4 more than the aftermarket, and the construction quality is pretty obviously better. A long time ago I posted pictures comparing the differences to illustrate this point.... Take note of the VASTLY superior gasket as well - it's a neoprene coated metal type gasket vs. the ultra-cheap cardboard unit. The OEM thermostat comes with this gasket while many aftermarket unit's have the gasket sold seperately. This further decreases the cost differential. GD

All GL manual's had the HH - even 2WD's. It may not be functional if the cable has been removed. GD

Why don't you cross that bridge when you get there. Beleive me - you will have plenty of time to read up on oils. GD

Well - they aren't electronic - just switches. And most of them are identical. I'm not sure why you are pulling these? You will be using the switches (or lack of) from the transmission you put in the vehicle. If you are using the 4 speed then the switches aren't going to work with it (most likely) anyway. That's the reason for the replacement of the switch with a pedal activated neutral switch. So you don't have to use any transmission mounted switches. The other switches are for the backup lights, and the 4WD indicator on the dash. On the EA81's the switch activates the Low range light, and on the EA82's it activates the 4WD light and the Low is on the linkage. At least that's how I remember it. GD

Doesn't understand EA82 valve timing. Probably timed it off the ignition marks instead of the valve marks, or one of the cams is 180 out. Could be wires too - that he shows compression would somewhat point to that.... but there's no way to tell for sure. GD

First, you should make your own post instead of posting in other's threads. That's poor forum etiquette It's not a single lamp - there's about 10 or 12 bulbs in the back of the cluster. You probably have a fuse or other electrical issue at play. You have turned up the dimmer right? It's the shifter interlock release. It's for taking it out of gear in case the normal shift button ceases to function. It's a backup to allow free shifting of the transmission in case you need to roll the car in neutral, etc. GD

No, but it will bolt right in. I bought an 83 DL wagon a long time ago that had been converted to D/R. It's just what they could find when they needed a tranny for it (somewhere north of 300k). GD

Not all of them. It's a year dependant thing I think. GD

Because it's just a lot easier to start with a car that's already got a Dual Range, Tach, Oil Pressure, and Voltage gauges. Plus the EA82 isn't suited to off-road conditions like the EA81 is. The timing belts are small and weak, and they are more difficult and time consuming to work on for very little gain in power over the EA81. Some will argue, but that's my opinion. The rear hatch glass on the 3 door is heavy and difficult to find should you break it. Also a drawback IMO. GD

Almost all D/R's were 3.9 - which is made more likely by the 23 spline axles. The only D/R's that were 3.7 were on the turbo RX's. But they have 25 spline axles, so your's isn't one of those. Another way to tell is with the ratio of the low range gear. The RX's low range was only 1.2:1 instead of 1.5:1. There ARE part time and Full Time RX's tranny's out there - 86's had the part time, and 87+ had the full time. Best thing to do is to put the car up with two wheels on the same side off the ground. Put the car in 5th gear and turn the engine over by hand. See if the wheels rotate a different amount. GD

If it's a 5 speed, then yes it's an EA82 "3 Door Coupe"..... looks a bit like an old school 80's Integra Have you seen an RX? Same body but it would have the DL trim which means no body kit, quad sealed beam headlights, etc. Wouldn't be a real good choice for an lifted rig IMO. Not short like a hatch, wrong motor, and wrong transmission. Lack of guages in the DL trim, etc. Would need a lot of work to make it usable to my standards anyway. GD

It won't hurt anything other than annoy you with the CEL. The main purpose behind the switches is telling the ECU how to react when the vehicle is rolling vs. stopped. If the car is rolling and IN gear then the ECU can use this information along with the information from the TPS to determine fuel trim. In fact if the car is coasting down a hill with no throttle (but in gear) the ECU will actually shut off the injector. Closed throttle coasting uses NO fuel this way (unlike a carb). But it will not adversely effect your engine, mileage, or emissions. The point of hooking them up (which I covered in my write up) is that the ECU may not properly report diagnostic codes if other codes are present. Certain parts of the diagnostic tests run in D-Check and even possibly in U-Check may be skipped based on codes that are already stored. We don't know or have any way to look at the source code for these ECU's so to be SAFE I reccomend that all signals be properly hooked up. Besides - having a functional CEL that you aren't ignoreing because you *think* you know what code it's refering to is the smart, and responsible way to travel. GD

Absolutely zero difference as far as I can tell. They run virtually the same. Your's is not, but all 4WD GL non-turbo EA82's had them. DL's had the push button, and the turbo's had the push button, the 4WD D/R with the higher low (86 RX's), the FT4WD with diff lock, or the FT4WD D/R (again with higher low) and diff lock (87 to 89 RX's). Loyale's had the push button only. After 89 the D/R was discontinued in the US. If you want one, you need to look for an 88 or 89 as those are sure to have the neutral switch. 85 through 87 were mostly carbed and did not come with the switch - before you ask, no it's not possible to add it. (unless you do some weird fabrication with the linkages like I did). But the stock 88+ switch won't work without major modification to the tranny. The tranny's are the same with regard to their input to the ECU from 88 on. It's the clutch pedal switch that the GL's don't have that makes their ECU nicer for this swap. You have two switches that the Loyale needs - the neutral switch, and the clutch switch. If you have an EA81 tranny or an EA82 tranny that doesn't have the neutral switch then you can adapt the clutch switch from a cruise control equipped EA81 to work as the neutral switch - that's fine for the GL ECU, but the Loyale ECU is still looking for the clutch switch as well.... which you ostensibly used to fool the neutral switch circuit - so now what? See the problem? That's why I don't use those ECU's. You could if you fabbed a switch on the linkage like I did, but the clutch switch works opposite of the CC one, so you might need a whole pedal assembly from an EA82..... basically just dive in and worry about this later as none of this will prevent you from starting or driving the car. You just want to fix it eventually as it can make diagnostics a pain if it's throwing codes for this stuff. Actually the push button trannys are quite reliable all things considered. But they are single range. Pay attention now - here it comes...... ALL dual range tranny's are lever action. But the one you want will come from an 88 or 89 as it will be fully compatible with the neutral switch for the SPFI. GD

Call discount import parts in Beaverton. Their parts are OEM or equivelent, and last time I bought one it was a Paraut. I've bought EA82 oil pumps there for around $80 to $100. GD

Oh, and yes the Loyale parts you got are fine. Everything will work fine but you may want to eventually source a "black" ECU from a later 80's GL so you don't have to deal with the clutch pedal switch. You will still have to do something about the neutral switch. Which reminds me that I need to update my page with my "new" fix for that. Instead of using the pedal switch, I actually built a switch that works off the linkage. It's not something that's neccesary, but I was bored one day I guess. If my camera weren't broken, I would take pics of it GD