GeneralDisorder

Yeah - I meant clutch pack, not viscous coupling. I was thinking of the 5MT's. As for the rest, I was mostly going off my experience with the EA82 4EAT's which were considerably less advanced. In the ariticle you linked to it mentioned that they have undergone "continuous development and improvment" which I should have realized but wasn't really thinking too hard about. The newer ones are much more "nannyfied". The endwrench articles deal almost exclusively with Legacy's and beyond - the 4EAT was quite a bit less advanced when it first arrived. I frankly despise auto's in the first place and wouldn't consider owning one except for some very narrow applications where they make sense.... and for people who never learned to clutch. GD

An excelent idea - putting the red LED on the top of the door cards wouldn't be too hard either. Google search for 12v LED flasher module in progress..... GD

Hhhhmmm - wonder exactly what's different about *those*?!? I'm sure the cam profile is totally wack for an N/A engine but that does always bring up the possibility of a low-psi turbo setup.... maybe with M/S Not sure how the open-deck block would handle that. I'm sure 5 psi would be alright and probably kick out another 10 or 15 HP though. Need to inspect the engine condition - she said the oil was changed every 3000 - 3500 and she's a little old lady so probably not lying about that. GD

That's just crimping the return right after the regulator on the SPFI TB. GD

The EJ fuel rail must use more fuel - if you crimp the return line on the EA82 SPFI the fuel pressure spikes to 50 psi (dead head capacity of the pump) instead of the correct 21 psi. This results in it running super rich. The return is there to bleed the pressure down to the correct rail pressure. Think of the SPFI as an Antelope drinking from a never-ending river of fuel. GD

Eh..... you can get aftermarket adjustable ones from summitracing or other places for pretty cheap. It wouldn't be worth the effort since both circuits run through the stock valve and the aftermarket ones are smaller and control only a single circuit so you don't have to run lines all over the place to get the job done. I was half considering using them for my Brat as it would simplify the plumbing and make it adjustable for rally-x. Being able to kick the a$$ end around on command isn't neccesarily undesireable for such events GD

Nope - just valve float, fuel pressure, and injector sizing. It's got a fuel cut for overboost, but that can be overcome if a variety of ways. GD

I thought the exhaust configuration accounted for most of the gain in performance.... is that not correct? 7 HP is actually a fairly large amount - more than a 5% increase - as big as the increase the EA82 gained when it went from carb to SPFI, and that took a number of changes to accomplish (cam, compression, intake, fuel system, etc). Perhaps I just don't get how the exhaust y-pipe fits the same on a single vs. dual port exhuast head? GD

So assuming I had an engine with some blown HG's.... what fitment issues would you have dropping the 95 dual port heads onto the 94 block? I would need heads and a y-pipe of course. Anything else? Would I need the 95 cams or are they roughly the same? Worth the 7 HP gain if I'm going to be in there anyway? Purely hypothetical since I doubt I need HG's, but I'm curious to know for posterity. GD

Didn't notice it till later, but I should add something about it. I haven't yet built one though. And yes - turbo tanks have the baffles already because they are EFI vehicles. I found an article by someone that used a plastic housing for a tap water filter from home depot - modified of course. but it's nice because they are plastic and there's no chance of corrosion. Also it's desireable to feed the EFI pump using a tube fed down from the top to *near* (1 inch or so) the bottom of the surge tank (like a drinking straw). This way crap won't get sucked into the pump - it will just settle on the bottom of the tank. And it allows the bottom to have a drain cock instead. GD

I've had all incarnations of EA81's and EA82's to valve float. Never damaged one from it. I had a rod through the block of an EA81 once but it wasn't RPM related. None of them can make it to rod burst speeds in stock form. A member here that was into engineering once postulated that the rod burst speed is somewhere north of 11,000 GD

Nice - I like the bolt head idea a lot. That's quite sneaky. Exactly what I was looking for. As for putting the stereo in the glove box - well that's probably possible, but the remote is IR so I don't think it will function :-\ Perhaps I'll try to put it in the center console under the armrest. GD

If the alt were pushing AC then it should light up all the warning indicators. This happens because AC voltage defeats the diode's in the ground circuits used by the warning indicators. At any rate it should be happening based on engine RPM and not vehicle speed as you describe. At least that's my take on it, and I've dealt with a number of failed alternators putting out AC. GD

You may be able to feel play in the shaft, yes. But it doesn't take much and there shouldn't be ANY play in it. The ND disty's tend to exhibit less tollerance for shaft play than the Hitachi units. GD

Ah yes - I was thinking of the EA series 4EAT I think. But I forget..... Ah well at any rate it's not as complex as he thinks. GD

Probably something to do with a wheel sensor not reading properly at that speed. That's just a guess though. But I don't know of any other way the ABS would know how fast you are going. GD

Put it on a scale and find out Contact patch test is the best way to figure out proper pressure for various applications. Black paint and white butcher paper. It starts as like 90/10, and has a MAX of 50/50 depending on conditions. Some were open, and some were LSD rear diff. Depends on year. But the Viscous Coupler acts like an LSD for the 4EAT. Temp expansion would be equal in all tires so isn't a concern. That's not clear at all - the larger pressure in the front is designed to offset the extra weight in the front of the vehicle. Maybe under hard braking - but that's what the VC is for - to allow different rotational speeds of the wheels. I doubt it - not neccesary to lockup anything unless there's a loss of traction. The wheel sensors are all that's needed to bias the torque. Why complicate it with throttle posistion. Besides I happen to know the 4EAT doesn't have a TPS signal. You aren't making any sense. Stop making it complicated - it's not. Pretty simple really - if a wheel sensor indicates a loss of traction it biases the torque to the opposite end of the car till they equalize in speed. GD

This sounds all kinds of wrong to me - if the belt was "loose" then it would have probably broken or jumped teeth. The 2.5 is an interferance engine and that would have been the end of it. Maybe you are just not familair with what timing belt tension normally looks like? All EJ engines use an automatic hydraulic tensioner pulley and I've never even heard of one failing. GD

I work graveyard in downtown Portland and my new DD is my first non-beater in quite some time. I would like to add two or three kill switches to prevent it from growing legs... 1. Best leads to tap into? I was considering the fuel pump ground as one of them.... 2. Best locations for the switches? On the same note - I'm a bit torn as to the stereo situation. The car has the factory premium 80w AM/FM CD unit, but I have a Sony bluetooth deck that I want to use as it allows me to wirelessly link to the car for both MP3 and headset action. It seems a pity to tear out the stock unit (if I do I'll keep it for reinstall later), but at the same time it really doesn't do what I want.... maybe a dual install? GD

Put your hand on the disty cap - you should be able to feel the shaft "bouncing" - it will feel like a vibration. The disty itself isn't really bad - just needs new bushings. There's places that will do this for you - philbin group here in Portland will do it for about $50 or so. GD

He speaketh the truth. It's on the "wall" that exists where the floor of the inside of the car rises to meet the bench that the rear seat foam sits on top of. If you follow the brake hard lines back to where they enter the cabin you can't miss it - it's right before that. Take all the hard lines you can get as well when you pull it - they can be easily bent to your needs in order to accomidate the Brat. I mounted the proportion valve on two of the same bolts that hold the fuel pump tray. Worked well for me. I decided I needed the valve when I took the Brat for a skid test immediately following the swap - it was wet and under a full lock-up I did a 180 and ended up half in the oncomming lane facing the opposite direction that I started. After adding the valve (and later the same day on the same bit of road) it skids 100% straight. The problem is that the Brat's rear end is so light that the added clamping force of the discs makes full pressure lock the rear wheels before the fronts and results in a situation where the rear end trys to pass the front because the coefficient of kinetic friction is less that that of static friction - thus the rear wheels speed up as soon as they start to skid (this is also the principle behind ABS brakes). GD

That's actually an XT6 on toyota solid axles. The green one is a Gen 1 (EA71) wagon with a standard 3" or 4" block lift. Not terribly common, but it's been done a few times. Mostly those are just rather rare in 4WD, underpowered (63 HP), and don't have a low range. GD

EA81's did not have proportion valves. GD

If you lockup all 4 tires on wet pavement it may lock the rears first and cause a loss of control without the proportion valve in place. That was my experience - adding the valve corrected it and mine stops perfectly straight and level now. GD

It's mentioned in this old thread of mine - I think you are looking for a 1/8" bspt fitting.... this thread may also give you other ideas on how to proceed. I thought I was pretty clever - and just for prosperity it's still working great. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55186 GD