GeneralDisorder

The rack does mount differently, as the power rack is larger. There's extra holes, and hard lines running in and on the cross-member, and the skid plate mount is removable for installation of the rack as it would be impossible otherwise. On the non-power crossmembers the entire cross-member must be removed and the rack slid out from one side. This is both not possible due to the dimensions of the power rack, and not desireable from a service point of view. GD

Pretty typical. My Brat and my EA82 sedan (both Webered at one time) average 26 to 29 in a pretty religious way with a mix of about 2/3rds freeway/hiway and 1/3rd city. Less in the summer due to hot, expanded fuel. 4WD manuals are just geared like that. The 2WD manuals generally can get up around 32 or so. My wagon, when it was a 2WD 5 speed, once averaged over 34 on a mostly freeway trip of about 600 miles. GD

You make pipes?!?! As in tobacco pipes? How did you know I smoke pipe? Holy amazing coincidence batman! Well I surely won't refuse an offer like that... Are you by chance a member of pipes.org? I'll send you an email with my info. Good times, good times. GD

Just call up the people at 1stsubaruparts.com: https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/tollfree.html They ARE a dealer in washington state, and will gladly ship anything you require from the old-school friendly west coast. Being internet capable, and being a dealership here on the left coast they have uber experience with EA81's. GD

Doubtful. Clutch kits in my experience are best purchased from the dealer. Their quality is higher, and the price is generally only about 25% more than cheap aftermarket. My local dealer can do EA clutch kits for me for about $160 or less. GD

You can't drain the tank that way - the pump only runs when the engine is running, or when cranking. It is located on a triangular shelf directly behind the drivers seat under the bed area. To drain the tank, remove the 12mm bolt that serves as a drain plug on the bottom of the tank. Probably best if you have that much contamination to just drop the whole tank and treat it so it doesn't rust out. GD

The speed sensor produces a square wave. On all the EA's (no reason it should be different for the XT6 as far as I can see) it's a voltage signal that varies from 0 to 5 volts - the frequency of the square wave indicates the speed. Thus the more quickly it varies the faster you are going. The speed sensor for the EA's is inside the speedometer but the fact that the XT6 is a "reed switch" would tend to indicate it's probably the same or at least similar. Have someone hookup an occiliscope to a working unit for you..... This wave *can* be replicated, but you will need to build a small circuit to do it. Do a search for square wave generator circuits and you will probably find a ton of easy solutions. GD

Any EA81 with power steering actually. Just not the Turbo's. GD

"!=" is the symbol commonly used for "not equal" in the geek world.... GD

Some of the ones I've seen were metal. Perhaps a difference over the years. GD

Actually a automotive engineering major (IIRC), and respected member here flow tested those intake snorkels and they are not a restriction of significance to a stock EA82. The sound is deceiving - it has the psychological effect of making one think they are getting more power. The badge on the rubber snorkel is definately a good find though - I hadn't payed it much attention before you mentioned it. GD

Anytime I can - but of course that's never as much as I would like. GD

Here's my definitive work on the subject: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/clutch.html Not all that difficult really. OEM cables only - all others suck. GD

New is great, but the GCK's are not only new, but also redesigned using more modern manufacturing techniques. I'm sure Marshall does a great job, but he still has to work within the bounderies of the off-the-shelf parts he can use to build his axles. Also his prices are higher when you include shipping, and although I'm sure he's fast, he certainly isn't Autozone - he's not down the street from me, and open 9am to 9pm 7 days a week..... GD

That's how they are here too: EA81's have the "handbrake" style lever, and the EA82's have a curved lever that comes up higher and goes through the same console as the gear shift - take a look at the actual linkage UNDER the car and you will see what I mean. The EA81 lever should work fine if you add 1" to the rod that attaches to the tranny with a round pin. Regardless of RHD or LHD the tranny's are the same - only the linkage is different. The 4 speed and 5 speed have the same connection at the tranny for the the linkage, but the 4 speed is an overall longer transmission, thus the need to lengthen the 4WD rod to account for the shorter 5 speed D/R attachement. GD

Turbo Brat's (and turbo EA81's in general) are rare. As such it would be sad to see someone butcher one with an engine swap. Besides that, unlike the EA82T they are excelent engines. Installing a 5 speed is understandable however - the stock 3AT's were crap. GD

You can use the stock EA81 lever setup (at least here in the US). The D/R rod needs 1" added to it, and you use the standard 5 speed gear selector linkage. My Brat looks 100% stock inside with a 5 speed. Just added a 5 speed knob of my choice (80/81 2WD knobs are nice). GD

Then it really isn't the same problem then is it? You may have the same symptoms.... but how that is germain to this man's question (and indeed - why you didn't start your own thread?) escape me. GD

GCK all the way for me. I own 4 of them and nary a problem to be found. Lifetime warrantee through any Autozone or affiliates too. Once you see one in person you'll understand why they are more than just new axles - they are *NEW* axles - redesigned using modern components and they carry an "off road approved" rating. Beefy..... very beefy. GD

Weber makes no such beast, and you have not read this. You are mixing up carbs and fuel injection - they are two totally different, and incompatible animals. A Weber will no more work on your loyale's fuel injection than a ball point pen would work for cutting hair. GD

Yeah - I don't like those stock snorkel tubes. On my Brat with a cone filter on the end it seems alright - the way it's situated in the bay the tube is at a better angle to not collapse like that so I probably don't notice it much. When accelerating up to freeway speeds I generally shift around 5,000 - 6,000. The redline of the SPFI block is 6500, and for the short time it's near that durring shifts it's no problem for them. The EA81 aicraft guys run them at 7,000 or more for hours. GD

Actually that's not *quite* accurate. First, it has been done - but with an EA81 block. Rguyver had quite the interesting setup on his lifted hatchback. Among other things it was an SPFI EA81 with turbo and NOS. Of course few here remember that rig as it was quite a few years ago - when this place was still on EZBoard.... The problems (I have questioned him in person about that particular build) are numerous. The biggest drawback for *you* will be the SPFI's 9.5:1 compression - that alone will make it crack heads, blow head gaskets, and collapse ring lands, etc. The EA82 block and heads are simply not suitible for turboing. The EA81 did handle it - but it has a carbed compression of 8.7:1 and does not have the weak heads, and uses studs to mate the heads intstead of the inadequate bolts used in the EA82's. He told me the SPFI did actually handle the turbo fairly well, but when the manifold pressure went positive under full boost the computer would go a bit nuts. To offset this he installed a second injector above the TB. It wasn't the greatest setup in the world, but with Nitrous I'm sure it moved like a deamon under boost while sipping the bottle. I would imagine that possibly MegaSquirt could have improved the charactaristics of the setup immensly. The SPFI injector already flows a massive amount of fuel, and the second injector he used was really only because the computer didn't understand positive manifold pressure so the thing would lean out too far. It's important to note that this was not a street vehicle - it was primarily off road only. Also important to note that he now runs a WRX powered Brat. Sadly none of this really applies to the EA82 - it simply will not hold together using the SPFI block and heads. So really not worth the effort or time when a reliable, more powerfull EJ series engine is availible for relatively cheap. GD

Frankly, who knows what their parts lookup gave you since there actually wasn't an 85 model coupe of any kind. The last production year for the EA81 coupe was 84, and the EA82 "coupe" 3-Door didn't come out till 86. There was a gap of one year where only the Wagon, Sedan, Brat and Hatch were produced. GD

Ask for an 89 non-turbo. Just make sure it's not for a hatchback - wagon, sedan or coupe (3-door) only. GD

Since propane is a gas at atmospheric pressure, there is no reason to use FI with it. A propane "carb" is literally just an orifice protruding into a venturi with a throttle butterfly. They already run at any angle (even upside down). So there is nothing to be gained by using an FI system - on top of that it would be difficult to convert any conventional gasoline FI system to propane as there wouldn't be any way to lubricate the injectors, and they would freeze as the liquid propane cools rapidly when expanding from it's liquid state. GD