GeneralDisorder

And what exactly would be leaking? Besides that, rubber plugs are not only possible, but rather cheap and easy for even citizens of relatively low intelligence to operate. GD

It MUST be a 5 watt or higher rated unit (ceramic, flame proof). Any less than 5 will result in a burnt resistor. The circuit needs to disipate over 4 watts. GD

Big enough EMP probably will destroy your clock circuit, and possibly the fuel pump control unit..... maybe other stuff like the power window controller, etc etc. Hard to say. All of them have IC's. Strictly speaking the ignition control should be fine though GD

If it caused a CEL, I wouldn't have sugested it. The whole point is to eliminate the CEL. Both solenoids are uneccesary but will throw a CEL if you don't fool the ECU. Depends on your 'shack. I have Fry's electronics out here. Two of em are about $1 or less. www.digikey.com is a good online source. GD

Check operation of the TPS. Clean your MAF, and replace your O2 sensor if it's old. You can search the board here for the SPFI code procedure. It's been discussed many times. GD

You don't need either of them. Replace with a 33 Ohm, 5 watt resistor. Plug the vac lines. GD

Make sure you got the crank t-belt sprockets on in the right order. The one with the groove goes next to the front main seal. Pull any stored codes from the ECU. Make sure there's no exhaust restrictions - clogged cat etc. GD

Have a set of lifters rebuilt for it. The more they tick, the more they wear - to a point where they won't hold pressure anymore. GD

You need a points distributor from an EA71 - the drive gear will need to be changed to the EA82 gear. I'm not certain that EMP would hurt the normal hall-effect distributor though. Might cause the engine to miss slightly due to dispruption of the sensors magnetic field, but there's no IC's inside it so it shouldn't cause permanent damage. It's only "electronic" in the strictest sense - the hall-effect itself is requires a semiconductor to operate. But it's basically just an on-off relay for the coil. EMP sensitive equipment generally needs to contain IC's that would be sensitive to large current flow.... the opto-electric CAS distributors from the FI cars would be fried, but plain carb "electronic" should be ok. GD

Too bad - you threw away what would have been about a $25 fix. GD

Valve gets stuck; rocker arm falls off; rocker is pinched between cam and valve stem; stem breaks off; valve spring and retainer come apart; valve is sucked into cylinder; piston slams valve against head repeatedly resulting in a valve shaped like this: "V" and a shattered piston and destroyed cylinder..... That's usually how it happens. GD

There is no need to tap anything. GD

If a rocker shot through the valve cover then there's a high likelyhood that the piston is shattered from hitting the valve. In which case - engine is toast And as far as Gen 3 heads, there's nothing different about their fitment, but they are almost impossible to find as they were only availible from the dealer after EA82T production had ceased. GD

Frankly you have an early EA82 turbo with a 3 speed auto.... use it for parts and get yourself a later 80's FT4WD 5 speed car if that's what you want. The early EA82T's weren't all that in reliability, and you'll just blow the thing up if you run it hard anyway. Gen 1 heads, old style interior, and 3AT automatic = parts car. Manual conversions aren't for the un-initiated. I've done several conversions of various difficulty levels, and it's not something you want to start with. It will cost more than the car is worth, and more than you can buy a later FT4WD car for in WA. Don't waste your time. GD

1. Verify your timing - both belts, and the distributor. Check for slipped or broken belts by removing the outer belt covers. 2. Clean you MAF - take special care to clean the air bypass port of all oil, dirt and contaminates. Use brake cleaner. 3. Verify that the fuel pump is running - connect the green test connectors and turn the ignition to run. The pump should cycle every few seconds. You need three things for the engine to run - air (both for the engine AND the airflow sensor), fuel, and ignition. Sounds to me like either you have timing issues (broken or slipped belts), or sensor issues to the point that it won't fire the injector. The fact that you get some fire at WOT indicates that when the ECU ignores the MAF things get *some* better. Your "clicking" and "whiring" sounds are normal. That's just relays and stuff. It's when things DONT make noise that you have to worry. GD

They are the same basic design, but there were changes to the block and head castings to accomidate larger coolant flow, and to incorporate the coolant by-pass that used to bolt on beneath the manifold on the EA71 block. The head studs do not line up from one to the other. EA81 heads necesarily have larger valves, but the intake and exhaust ports are about the same. The stock fuel and ignition systems are about the same - the electronic distributor from the EA81 will bolt up to the EA71 without modification. But the manifold for the EA81 is longer and actually matches the EA82. Making SPFI possible on the EA81, and not on the EA71. Also the transmission bell-housing changed such that the EA81 will not bolt to the older EA71 transmission. The starter was moved from the top 1200 posistion over to about the 1330/1400 position. GD

No, and the Sub4 heads are for the EA81. They will not fit the EA71. There were no performance variations of the EA71 - not in the US market anyway. And EA81 heads will not fit - besides that they are not dual port anyway. GD

Take a reading with a mechanical guage. Maybe you just don't have much pressure. Personally, for the cost of the sending units you can install a mechanical guage and be done with it. That's my preference. GD

I used 5 watt 33 Ohm ceramic flame-proof resistors. Seems to have worked fine for me. The package of two was a whopping 89 cents. GD

40 Ohms is too high. Needs to be about 33. GD

Even my local dealer (that stocks both parts) gave me that one at first - new guy behind the counter. When I made it clear that I needed the cam tower oil PASSAGE o-ring they figured it out. Yes, you *can* use a normal non-reinforced o-ring. Prior to like 87 that's what they had from the factory. It just doesn't last the proper 200,000 that it should. Should be no trouble for at least the next 50,000 though. Just match up what you pull out to a new high-temp o-ring. Dealer is wrong about it being "obsolete". They are still in the system. And yes - thepartsbin.com is the same OEM part as the dealer. Whatever you do, you MUST replace that o-ring. The old one will be unusable. The one they gave you.... yeah I don't personally ever replace those really. But that's because I don't generally take the front cam seal off unless I'm replacing it/them. GD

This has been covered - you bought a TURBO. Takes your lumps like a man. GD

The fact your coolant is pressurized the next day is enough to indicate a failure. One of the passages adjacent to the cylinder is leaking. Cylinder compression is entering the cooling system. I've seen it several times, and two of the ones I replaced I could actually see the failure and the damage it caused to the head surface. With the mileage your engine has, it's almost a guarantee. Water pump failure was the last straw for my 86 with 228,000 on it. New HG's was all I needed as I didn't drive it enough with the failure to cause the head surface to be badly pitted. But I did actually SEE the failure in the gasket when I removed it. It was small (1/8" wide), but it was there. ASE certification is good general education, but doesn't trump first hand experience with specific models, which is what this board represents. I have "military training" as a mechanic if you like - doesn't mean I know what's wrong with your mazda..... good example for you: Freind's wife has a 2000 Jaguar with a V8. One day it doesn't start. I figured electrical or electronic. Turns out that short drives on this model will wash the oil off the cylinders and the engine's compression drops so low it won't start. Solution was to squirt a fluid ounce into each cylinder. It cranked up after about 5 minutes, and blew a huge oil cloud for 20 minutes. Silly? Yes, but ASE doesn't prepare you for crap like that, or other model specific anomolous behavior. No amount of education does really. Rick

That stop leak stuff doesn't work on flat-4's due to not being able to effectively drain out the coolant from the heads. Plus there's no way it's going to fix the exhaust port crack if that's your problem. Just sell it as-is so at least someone has a chance of not causing more problems by thinking there's nothing wrong with it. Trying to patch it with that crap is underhanded and dishonest. Besides that it won't work - not even for long enough to sell it. It just won't work at all. I tried it for the hell of it on my sedan - I was rewarded with no heat, a mess in my driveway, a head gasket job the next weekend, and a VERY cold heater core replacement job the following month ...... hey - I like to do some "mythbusting" once in a while ya know? I pretty much knew it wouldn't work but I figured (wrongly) that it couldn't hurt. Well it can, and will, make a holy mess and it does seal things up but good - just not the right things. After I replaced the HG's like I should have done in the first place it's 100% again. I've put 6,000 on it since, and haven't added a drop of coolant. "Takes your lumps" like everyone else who is unwilling/unable to fix things properly. Don't crap in someone else's cherios. GD

On the other hand, my 86's AC system got a bit low and no longer cooled. I replaced all the o-rings at each fitting with new AC rated stuff, and charged it with some old R-12 I had around. Didn't replace anything, and didn't pull any vacuum on it, and it's working fine. If I have to charge it up again with R-134 in a year or a few years so be it - the stuff is cheap. These old AC systems are simple, and frankly the whole receiver/drier setup isn't that big of a deal. Older refrigeration and home AC systems don't even have them. Make sure you have it setup properly to come on with the defrost, and that the idle up solenoid works - this circulates the oil in the system durring the cold season, and prevents hoses, rings and seals from drying out, and the pump from eating itself. It also dries the air for better defrost action. GD