GeneralDisorder

Worn shaft bushings. The air gap between the reluctor and pickup isn't steady. GD

The cables are not greased. They are filled with a dry white lithium lubricant. It's not serviceable, and isn't worth messing with as the cable's cost about $18. A properly routed cable from the dealer should last at least as long as the clutch. 100,000 on a cable is common. GD

You just can't beat old TM 9-8000. Army technical manual - 780 pages of goodness covering virtually everything to do with automotive mechanics. I have a paper copy myself, but it's availible here for $6 in PDF.... http://www.chqsoftware.net/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=497 Can't beat $6 for the valuable information in there. It covers EVERYTHING - tracked vehicles, hydraulics, turbine engines, etc, etc. GD

Speed sensor should not cause stalling. Don't even need it hooked up to run. GD

It would throw a CAS sensor code if the sensor was dirty, or the interrupter disc was mis-aligned. But generally the FI distributors don't have this problem as they have real bearings for the shaft instead of sleeve bushings. GD

That's indicative of carb distributors, not FI. GD

AC voltage from a bad alternator rectifier is the only way all those warning lamps will illuminate. Not saying there aren't other issues as well, but low voltage alone won't do it. Unless there is something very jinky with the ignition switch and it's passing voltage to the bulb check circuit while in the run position..... but that's a bit like saying UFO's took your dog to explain why he didn't come home :-\ GD

Idle switch is the only one that would cause a stall condition. *maybe* a really, really bad O2, but not likely. Neutral switch wouldn't do anything at all that you would be able to notice. Sounds like the TPS is either bad, or wants adjustment. GD

I doubt you need bushings. You probably need to mod the roll-pin hole in the shift rod. Do a search for "4 speed slop". That should get you some applicable threads. GD

I thought he meant putting the EA82 in the EA81.... that requires notching. GD

Only in conjunction with EJ transmission installations. It's an extremely involved process requireing the swapping of the complete legacy pedal set, hydraulic reservior, lines, etc. Plus the stock transmission isn't setup for hydrualic so you would need a custom clutch fork..... etc. WAY more work than it's worth unless you are also doing a full EJ22 and AWD 5 speed swap at the same time. Get a new cable from the DEALER. Aftermarket are not acceptable. GD

Notching the cross-member? Yes. GD

Most of the experienced lift builders, such as the PK lift, etc use blocks that are 1" shorter on the leading rod plates. Simply because you can without hurting anything, and keeping those plates as far up as possible is benneficial. GD

Being you have a Gen 2 - 5 speed D/R is the way to go. Contact Jerry (bratsrus1) - he has a kit for $100 plus shipping that will allow a direct bolt-in of the 5 speed. I used it, and I love the results. Plus the interior looks 100% stock. GD

Yeah - you need a side-starter EA71 bell-housing from a later 80's STD hatch. The EA81 bell-housing doesn't fit the EA71. Additionally, the EA71 flywheel is only capable of supporting the 200mm clutch, so you would either have to redrill the EA81 flyhweel, or just use the smaller 2WD clutch..... which really is like.........for lifted rigs. Jared (Rooinator) had this setup on his wagon for a while as well, but eventually moved to the EA81 for the greater power, and larger clutch. I should have said it *can* be done, but the difficulty with finding the side-starter EA71 bell-housing, and the smaller clutch make it less than desireable. Sorry I wasn't more clear. GD

I can do better than that - I made a write up on it. No one cared of course..... http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/4speed_mounts.html GD

Re-read the thread. For one thing your 82 tranny has a lower 3rd and 4th gear. So yes, 5th would lower your RPM's - to where it would be about 3400 at 80 MPH. But that's really ancillery to the goals of the 5 speed swap anyway. There's more important reasons to chuck the 4. Again - reread my earlier posts. GD

Hehehe. The EA82 feedback carb is a maddening peice of equipment ($hit). Underpowered, and rife with issues that aren't easily solved. The manifold vacuum sensor (which always fails BTW), is located on the passenger side strut tower. It's a black unit that's about 1.5"x2.5" with a 4 pin plug. It says "boost sensor" on it. They are always bad (I've never found a good one in the yards), they are dealer only parts, they are not repairable (I took one to peices to see), and they are right around $300 for a replacement. So not worth fixing. Best solution is to strip that crap off and replace it with a Weber, or SPFI. SPFI would be a good choice as you already have the oxygen sensor bung in your exhaust. There aren't any connectors for reading or clearing codes on the feedback carb models. They are cleared every time the ignition is turned off. But don't worry - they will come back I fought with one for a few thousand miles but gave up when I ran up against the boost sensor..... for the cost you can get a new Weber and be done with the whole mess. That's how I handled it, and I love having the extra power, and my mileage went up being there's no weird sensors causing the ECU to run in open loop. GD

Yep - or a D/R 4 speed. Unless it's a gen 1 - then you'll have to change the engine AND tranny. GD

Lefty Lucy. GD

They were 2WD 5 speeds with an extra 1(or was it 2?) ft of bed behind the rear wheels. Really silly looking actually. Isreal was the second largest subaru market in the 80's and early 90's and they were sold as delivery vehicles. GD

In the interest of not inciting yet another flame war on this subject - please consult the "similar threads" at the bottom of this page. GD

Hhhmmm - can you take a video of it? I'm not totally sure what you are describing. GD

Common EA81 Hatch. They came 4WD and 2WD, auto or manual with both EA81's and EA71's. Basically they are just shorter EA81 wagons without the rear doors, and coupe/Brat front doors to facilitiate entering the rear seat. If you are in Canada, they are called "Chaser's" GD

Actually it will hurt - you will prevent the graphite from bonding with the aluminium. If properly installed, dissasembly should result in the destruction of the gasket as it bonds to the aluminium sufaces like a head gasket would. This is why the surfaces must be COMPLETELY clean. All the failures I've seen were related to cheap gaskets or poorly prepared mating surfaces. GD