GeneralDisorder

Sure - but they are more expensive, and the GCK's are awesome quality too. I could care less about the color. I would rather pay less for no fancy blue crap. It's just going to get dirty and chipped anyway. GD

Vacuum line should be fine. Small is ok as long as it's connected. PCV is all-metal on these - just pull it and soak it in carb cleaner overnight. That will clean it up good as new. No need to replace it. It's not your problem anyway though. GD

Yeah - just be really, really careful of the heating and sensor elements - without the housing they will be exposed and easily broken. GD

Yeah - they are cheaper too. Ammeter's are a lot less expensive to produce. Also an excelent idea to have, but more useful for those who have lots of aftermarket accesories. For those with largely stock electrics it's more useful to have a voltmeter, and better for john public to just see a gauge in the "green mean ok" range than an ammeter than bounces all over and actually requires some knowledge to read. Basically they resulted in way too many complaints, so voltmeters took over as a simple pass/fail for the charging systems. GD

Wow - someone that's actually seen it and isn't senile yet. Special edition is out - been meaning to pick it up myself from amazon. Good times. GD

With a rod knock.... $100 or less simply because no one that knows how to fix it will be willing to pay any more, and no one else in all the land is going to give you anything at all for a non-running 20 year old econo-soob. Sorry, but if you want $$ for a car, it has to at least take someone on a test drive. I could actually do the work, and wouldn't pay more than $100 - after I trailer it home, find a motor, swap it out, etc, etc I'm into it more than than a decent running justy would have cost in the first place. Besides that I've bought running soobs with much, much simpler problems for $100. GD

Why don't you do some searches? This has all been covered, beat down, and discussed to death. By me, and lots of other folks that have already built hi-po EA81's and actually know what they are talking about :-\ 50% of the info given here is wrong, and half of the remaining 50% is incomplete at best. GD

All EA81's use the same axle - and this thread is NOT about EA81's, so that part number is useless to her. GCK's for the EA82's are apparently out of stock, so go with the MWE's. Since they are both using all new quality components I wouldn't imagine there would be a lot of difference. The GCK's are generally cheaper, but as they aren't availible at the moment.... GD

Ok - the CV issue definately sounds like you are on the right track. Nothing you could have dropped into the clutch area would do anything remotely like that, and likely wouldn't do anything at all but fall to the bottom of the housing and get stuck in the muck down there. Don't worry about that The CV is either (as you imagine) the CV itself, or it's the axle nut come loose. Happens a LOT. I sugest doing the axle yourself so you KNOW it's tight. Replace the cone washer under the axle nut with a new one from the dealer. Cheap insurance. GCK axles are by far the best, but I hear that GCK has run out of EA82 axles in the US and are awaiting import of more from the manufacturing plant. MWE enterprises is a good second choice - many swear by both. Rebuilt - even dealer rebuilt, are junk. Definately get a timing light. Harbor Frieght has them cheap. Set your timing to 7 or 8 degrees. And you idle speed needs to be around 700 to 800 or the dieseling won't stop. The rough idle could be a vacuum leak. Test the pot on the distributor by putting a length of vac hose on it, and sucking on the end. The pot should move the lever inside the distributor, and it should not return till you stop sucking. If it does or doesn't move at all, then the rubber diapham is shot. Check for other vacuum leaks by spraying around with carb cleaner or brake cleaner. Anywhere you spray that smoothes out the idle is a potential leak. Check thoroughly. Also are you adjusting the idle mixture? It's a balancing act - if you change the idle speed, then you have to change the mixture too. If you lowered the idle speed and the deiseling stopped, then you need to adjust the mixture till it runs smooth again. A slight lean stumble is ok for idle, but it shouldn't be a very noticeable thing. GD

Yep - add a $65 autometer 3 guage cluster of temp, voltage, and oil pressure. Those three are the ones you really, really need to be accurate. GD

Hhhmmm - I doubt that the cap would cause that. I've driven my Brat (SPFI) without the cap, or with it cracked open and it was fine... Some newer cars this will cause issue, but the SPFI shouldn't give a crap - as long as the pump has fuel flow and the tank doesn't build vacuum due to a clogged breather line..... it really shouldn't matter if there's a cap at all. GD

That ground doesn't go into the wireing harness - it's connected to the tranmission itself. It's just a grounding strap from the body to the tranny housing. You pick up a multi-meter yet? Those switches may not work like the push-button one's did..... I would have to look at it though. GD

SPFI auto's have a park switch only (which happens to connect to the same pin on the ECU as the neutral switch for the manual's). The so called "neutral safety switch" is simply a lockout that prevents the starter from running except in park and neutral. It's not connected to the ECU in any way. The circuit has to be defeated when doing a manual conversion, but it's simply a matter of jumpering two wires in the shifter plug. Beleive me - I've been through the SPFI harness and ECU pinout more times than I care to remember at this point. I've retro-fitted it into two cars, and I have most of the wire colors memorized at this point. I'm sick and twisted I know.... GD

And for anyone listening - this is exactly WHY I advocate hooking up all sensors and switches when doing the SPFI conversion. You could adversely affect your mileage. GD

So what's wrong with the first thread you posted on this? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69740 GD

Sounds like a typo to me. It's not unheard of. All the SPFI info I've seen puts them at 90. Plus it makes no sense that it would have the same torque rating. Information is conflicting - the stuff here in the board shows 90 HP, 101 torque. The turbo's are the 137 torque.... but who really knows. GD

Nope. On the SPFI, no throttle = no fuel if you are coasting. Always, 100% of the time. That's one of their big wins over carbs for enhanced mileage. Carbs still pull fuel through the idle circuit even under closed throttle coasting. There were various systems employed to try to prevent it - the Anti-Afterburn-Valve (AAV), but it's not 100% effective, and it's complex. On the SPFI, it shuts off fuel flow if the engine is turning more than idle speed (which it considers to be about 1200 RPM in closed loop near as I can tell), and thus you will use zero fuel coasting down a hill in gear. If you go to neutral you will actually use MORE fuel as the ECU then has to turn on the injector to maintain idle speed. Ever had the engine do it's strange surging, bouncy idle thing? Idle bounces between like 1500 and 1000 RPM? That's the idle fuel cut in action. Something is amis with the IAC adjustment or the MAF, and the engine wants to idle higher than the fuel cut, so it bounces back and forth - idle increases, fuel cuts out, idle decreases, fuel cuts back on, idle increases....ad infinitum. ECU can't even tell what gear you are in - only that you aren't in park. Auto's don't have the neutral switch, just the park switch. Crank inhibitor is part of the auto shifter mechanism - not controlled by the ECU at all. GD

There's no flywheel on an auto - it's a torque converter with a steel mounting plate (called the flex plate) on the engine crank. You will have to use the complete flywheel/clutch from the manual engine. Use loctite blue on the flywheel mounting bolts as they are open to the crankcase and could leak oil of they vibrate loose. GD

There are 4 different (all correct) plug wire oreintations depending on how you align the distributor rotor. Manuals (for obvious reasons) only show you one of the possible 4. There are only 2 possible distributors for an EA81. Nippon-Denso, and Hitachi. Here's the detail on the difference: Intermittant spark is usually a result of worn distributor bushings. Check for side to side play in the shaft. GD

IF you can find one, it will indeed allow the mating. But (and this is a big one), you still can't run huge tires as the EA71 is limited to the 200mm clutch due to the flywheel being a different bolt pattern. It might be possible to redrill an EA81 flywheel to get the 225mm clutch, but it's not a bolt up. And for that much work, it's easier to just put the EA81 in and get the added power as well. GD

I've blown the Fel-Pro's. Dealer only on the intake's. GD

Perhaps, but much like Dewalt tools (owned by black and decker.... don't get me started), I wouldn't buy the stuff to find out. I refuse to support companies that make crappy products by purchasing their other products that "aren't as high on the crap roster". GD

Agreed - they really are great little units. Very easy to work with. The whole point is so you DONT have to take it to the tard mechanic down the street. Want it done right? Do it yourself. Especially true with carbs as there are few mechanics around that can work on them. 20 degrees indeed GD

Ground wire should connect to the transmission housing. Look for a bolt somewhere to lock it down to. Your resistor block is blown. Do a thread search for "fan resistor block". It's under the passenger dash near the blower motor housing. They often burn out - it's quite common. If the light does not come on, first make sure the bulb checks ok when you first turn on the ignition. If it does, then likely the transmission isn't engaging 4WD. This a push-button 5 speed? Probably a broken vacuum line to the 4WD solenoid, but also could be the wireing to the 4WD light switch on the tranny if the 4WD is working. Clock circuit board needs to be resoldered. Almost a universal failure. Solder joints get old and shrink away from the circuit from the heat of the power supply capacitors. Pop it out of the dash, remelt the solder, and re-install. Almost always a bad sending unit. It hangs down in front of the pump. About $35 - $40 from the dealer. Sounds like you are on the right track. The ground wire should definately be connected, and the other wire..... would have to see it to tell you for sure. GD

No - they all have both screws, but one is idle speed, and one is idle mixture. BOTH are for idle adjustment only. Once the throttle is more than about 5 degrees open the idle circuit loses it's vacuum signal and goes passive. The main circuit and high speed circuit take over and their "mixture" is 100% jet controlled. There are NO service adjustments for anything but idle speed, idle mixture, choke pull-off, and choke spring rate. So really, either they did nothing at all or they just have no idea what they are doing. I've installed about a dozen Weber's at this point - 4 of which on personal vehicles. My first was over 4 years ago, and was a brand new redline as well. I've done one other brand new one for a friend, and all the others were rebuilt by me. They all run exactly the same, and get the same mileage if you set them up right. There's no magic to it, but for a supposed "mechanic" to tell you he adjusted the mixture, and set your timing to 20 degrees speaks volumes to someone like myself that knows a thing or two about carbs and specifically Weber's. At this point I have more Weber experience than I do with the stock Hitachi's. GD