GeneralDisorder

Exactly. The heat from the turbo and hot exhuast is boiling the cooling after shutdown. It's basically supposed to do that. The EA81T's when first produced didn't even have water cooled turbo's. But Subaru found that people who didn't idle the engine before shutdown or that lived in hot climates had excessive failure's of the turbo units. They were recalled and fitted with the EA82 style turbo and cooling hoses. The EA82 inherrited this "recall" design to prevent turbo failure. GD

Yeah - and the Fel-Pro's are definately the best. The OEM stuff is 20 year old gasket tech. Use the Fel-Pro's - and they don't require a re-torque. GD

They draw a good amount. You can watch the guage drop when they come on. Pretty normal for a motor designed to move that large of a fan. GD

Nope - too short. All the EA81 drivelines are shorter than EA82's - especially the Hatch - it's actually shorter than all the others. The 5 speed is a shorter transmission. GD

Actually - here's a recent thread where I sold a complete dealer fog setup - there's pics of the harness. It's 100% seperate from the factory harness, and splices into three wires under the dash. No drill is required - the wires run through the same holes in the firewall and fender that the factoy loom runs through. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=56335 GD

No - I can tell you from experience of removing said factory wireing (both for dealer installed fogs, and entire wireing harnesses) that no wireing exists for fog lights. The wireing/relay/switch came as part of the fog light kit, and was spliced into the existing power supply to the fuse panel, and to the headlight switch harness. GD

EA81 head gaskets are totally simple. And they cost about $15 each. No cams or timing belts to deal with. Just do the HG's. The sealant will collect in the heater core and clog that permanently. Trust me - the way the core is designed on the EA series both the inlet and outlet are on the same side. GD

It's got zilch to do with race. It's about poorly trained translators, and the written form we used above is about people with accents. A white guy from chicago sounds funny too. And if I grew up learning Japanese as my first language I would probably sound just as funny. It's called lexicography. It has everything to do with speech, and nothing to do with the color of you skin. I bet I sound like a fool to the spanish foks at work when I try to speak their language. Aint higher education wonderful? Oh, and my GF is half Japanese, and I drive a Japanese car (who would have guessed THAT?).... so I'm probably not the most racially motivated person you could find. Not trying to start a fight about it, just clarifiying in case anyone *did* get the wrong idea. GD

Yes, it can be done. There's a toyota part number that fits. Old U's have to be unstaked, and the yokes have to be made capable of accepting the toyota joints.... all in all too much work. It's not economically viable. A driveline shop will charge well over $100 for the job as it's a real PITA. It would be better to just grab an EA81 driveshaft and have it lengthened. At least those already have replaceable U's, and the shop only needs to replace the tube, and not all the yoke's. Or even better - find a good used one. I've used shafts with well over 200k with no problems. And I can routinely find them with much less than that. The last one I picked up with 130k on it. Very good condition. But here on the west coast we don't have the salt and rust issues. If you get a decent shaft and keep it slathered with some grease to keep the rust and salt at bay you should be fine for the life of the car. GD

Oh - yeah didn't see the oil pump part of your post. Use anereobic sealant for that if you need anything. RTV is a no-no on anything but the cooling system IMO. I don't really use it anywhere else on a soob except the cam cases/valve covers. GD

Oh - I agree. I Lrov my engrish manual! Seriously tho - I have a 1980 manual that's just impossible to wrap your head around in places. I guess it's that first-edition-new-model-year Engrish thing.... GD

I would *hope* they would be using it for reference in order to rephrase the badly translated fuji procedures into laymans terms. I'm sure they are not interested in being sued. GD

By whom exactly? GD

It's very similar to the VW's you have done. Just pull the engine out and you will see what I mean. The only difference is the way the block comes apart. Instead of the cylinders unbolting from the crank-case, you pull the wrist pins through access ports in the sides of the block, then the engine unbolts down the center. You will most likely need new main and rod bearings, and complete gasket set. Rings do not usually require replacement, but you can if you like. You should bottle-brush the cylinders at least so new rings will seat properly. Get the Fel-Pro gasket set, and use dealer gaskets for the intake manifold and oil pan gaskets as the aftermarket versions are inferior. Really it's pretty straightforward. You can always ask questions on here as you go. GD

I would recommend you REBUILD the one you have. Buying a used engine or a new one is a waste of money. The used engine could have problems, and a new CCR EA81 is over $1,000. You can rebuild the one you have for less than the cost of the used engine. And you could probably get by with just head gaskets. As for the EA82 - don't waste you time with it for an off-roader. It's a higher reving engine, with only a slight HP increase over the EA81. It's problematic for off-road repair. The timing belt makes it slow to work on. It also does not fit without modification to the frame rails, and moving the hill holder. Too wide for the EA81 body. The EA82 fuel injection is awesome. It runs at any angle, and has great torque. That would be a great conversion, but it takes a not-insignificant electrical knowledge, and the parts to do it run into the $300 to $400 range by the time you are done, and the conversion usually takes people a couple weeks the first time they do it. I've done it to my Brat, and I love it. Much more predictable than the carb options. GD

Probably just blown head gaskets. These engines are almost impossible to crack. It's been discussed, but no diesel conversions have ever been done. The EA81 is one of the best off-road engines you can build. I sugest you use this opportunity to tear it down and replace the bearings, and while you are at it add a Delta 252 torque cam for better low end. GD

You just replace the whole block. Building your own block, while *possible* requires a lot more electronics skill than just aquireing a replacement. They are small parts, and usually only a few $$ at the yards. GD

The factory fog light's (dealer option) used a switch that looked like the rear wiper switch - it goes into the blank under the left side of the column. I would put a rocker switch there. It should control a relay for the fogs. GD

Sounds like you have got the EA81 and EA82 axles mixed up. You have an EA82, and consequently you need the longer axles. Camber cannot be changed with different axles. So if your camber was off, then most likely you forget to tighten something or reconnect something. When you are ordering parts, it's best to ask for later model stuff. For axles ask for an axle for a '89 GL (non-turbo) Wagon. This should prevent any confusion. GD

I don't even use a gasket anymore. Just RTV and go. GD

Pressure in the crankcase is normal - the PCV system is designed to take care of it. I would check that first. If the diagnosis in the add is correct (not likely unless it's been subjected to high boost), then it's going to need an engine rebuild at the very least. GD

Just about any EA82T ECU should work - as long as it's for the right type of MAF (hot wire or flapper door). But if you are pulling codes, the ECU is probably ok. They don't usually fail unless someone connected the battery backwards (instant failure). GD

No. Check your fuel pump. GD

I like 15's myself. Larger tire selection. But if you aren't going too big, 14's are good too. Less rim, more tire is good off-road. Just make yourself a lift kit - it's really not that hard. SJR sells just the strut tower bits, and the rest are just simple blocks. GD

Horray! Gentleman - we have common sense! Can anyone tell which poster in this thread I'm talking about GD