GeneralDisorder

I have to agree - if you have a hoist, pulling the engine is easier. If you don't have a hoist..... get one, or a big peice of lumber, a chain, and a couple big friends. GD

No - your starter will be fine. The difference is the auto's spin faster to overcome the drag of the TC. I actually like them better - doesn't sound like the battery is about to die. GD

Largely because it costs money to publish. Books are subject to review, and no one will pay to print them if they don't beleive they will sell. Strictly speaking, there's nothing stopping somoene from printing false information in any form of media. But if you want informed, largely (but never always) correct information, then you should consult printed books - especially textbooks, and scientific journals. You can't just read any old cult pamphlet and beleive it - you still have to be discriminating, and use common sense. But there are more checks and balances in the world of print, while virtually anyone can make a web site for a few pennies. GD

Ok - the carb is getting fuel. So we can rule out the fuel system. Apparently the carb needs some work. Lets start with.... have you ever had a weber to peices? FIRST thing - operate the throttle manually and see if your accelerator pump is working. You should see a strong stream of fuel squirt directly into the main barrel above the throttle plate from the accelerator pump nozzle. If you don't see fuel, either the accelerator pump isn't working, or more likely, considering your no-run condition, the float bowl is empty (stuck float) I think now is an excelent time to check the operation of the float, and to at least blow out the jets, and and air bleeds with some compressed air. Sounds to me like either the main jets are clogged, or the float is stuck. Pop the top off that sucker and have a look. Also pull out the idle jet on the front (either a big bolt-looking thing, or if you have the idle cut solenoid, unscrew that). Blow some compressed air in where the idle jet goes, and into the hole for the idle mixture screw. While you have the top off take off the accelerator pump nozzle and blow that out too. GD

What type of carb are you running? Does it have an idle cut solenoid and if so does it have power? Does fuel pump out of the hose with it disconnected from the carb (like into a fuel can)? GD

Then you haven't looked very hard. It's hard to see with your eyes closed. GD

I said sentence "structure" not spelling. So... I can't spell all that well - I grew up with spell-check. Didn't stop me from getting A's in every english and writing class I took in college, where I got my degree in computer science with a minor in math. GD

Noah - it's clear to me (and probably to you) that there isn't any. Engineer's have to go to "school". The sentance structure (or complete lack of same) indicates little in the way of formal schooling. Sadly, I have to liken bdg's skills and methods to that of a psychic or or a shaman.... he could write journal papers on how *his* subaru works, but no one else would be able to replicate his results. Much like religion, with bdg's science, you have to be a beleiver. I've never been much of a joiner - clearly you aren't either. BDG - I think you need to start your own forum, as you posts around here are impacting the accurate flow of information. I'm not flaming you, I'm just sugesting that you read some "books" on engine theory and design before you haphazardly criticize subaru's engineering team - I'm betting they have a few degree's on the subject, and quite possibly know a thing or two. And if you think you know more - send them your resume and show them what you can do. I bet they would appreciate your assistance. GD

You might want to re-read my post.... But thank you for proving my point! I saw that eppisode of mythbusters (I think I've seen them all actually). GD

This has come up a few times here on the board. The mileage on the EA81T's wasn't very good, and the automatic just made things that much worse. 18 MPG seems to be about the common average in the threads I've seen, although the Brat should get just slightly better. Brat's were generally rated 1 MPG more just for the lighter weight. All that extra power from the turbo requires more fuel. Staying out of the turbo and cruising at 55 MPH will get him back up to the 18 - 20 MPG range I'm sure. 70-75 is WAY over the optimal cruise speed of the EA81T. He drives with the tailgate up right? Tailgate down (or none at all) will lower his MPG considerably. GD

Once again - those of you with EA82's need to stay out of this thread. You know not what you speak. And ticking IS harmful - both to the lifters, and it indicates improper oil pressure. You may need to replace your sender or the oil pump mating surface may not be totally flat anymore. GD

1. They didn't make 4WD 5 speeds before 85, and they were never installed in the EA81 series cars. You need a 4WD D/R transmission from an 85-89 wagon or sedan only (the boxy, EA82 cars). The D/R 5 speed was discontinuted after 89. 2. You have two options for the clutch. Use the 225mm EA82 clutch disc (with the round spring section - the square spring version won't fit the EA81 flywheel), and release bearing (from the 5 speed donor), or use the complete EA82 clutch setup, and swap the EA82 flywheel for your's. I would recommend using the enitre setup, as being an '82 Brat you have the older 200mm clutch and will have to replace the flywheel anyway - might as well use the EA82 flywheel. You may need to add a single 3/8" washer under the starter bolts to clear the EA82 flywheel. 3. You will need to use the driveline from the EA82 vehicle. It's already the right length, but you will have to fabricate mounts for the center carrier bearing as it's a two peice affair. Alternatively you could have a driveline shop build you a new driveline, but that's always more expensive. Also, the two peice is less exposed under the car so less likely to get hit on some obsticle. Subaru went to the two-peice for this very reason. The longer you go, the more driveline you have sticking out under the car. It's an option if you can't weld, but the EA82 shaft works great if you can or have access to someone that can. 4. You will need to fabricate some on the transmission cross-member. You will see when you get the 4 speed out and set them side-by-side. If you do it right, you can get away without beating on the transmission tunnel, but you have to be VERY accurate with your new mounts, and the transmission will need to be angled backwards *very* slightly to accomplish this. Or you could just buy the excelent kit from Bratsrus1 (Jerry). His kit is AWESOME, and makes the install much easier. 5. You will use the 5 speed linkage, so grab that. You will need to weld in 1" of rod into the 4WD shifter rod from the 4 speed, and it will work great on the 5 speed. Just remember to shove the 5 speed linkage all the way over to the drivers side when you tighten it's rear mounting nut, or it will interfere with the 4WD rod. GD

As to the rest of your questions (about durability, etc), I know of at least three EA81's with cams and EA71 pistons that don't have any trouble at all. CCR has no qualms about installing them upon request, and if there were any known problems with the ring lands when used in Hi-Po EA81's I'm sure they wouldn't be willing to install them. I wouldn't worry about the ring lands unless you are planning to run forced induction or very high RPM. The EA71 pistons seem to do fine with 100+ HP. I'm running a torque cam so I don't anticipate high-rpm loads, and I already bought a set of chrom rings for mine. Otherwise I would use the EA82 pistons just because of the higher comp. If you want THE BEST pistons, I've heard amazing things about the RAM performance sets. But at $120 each, I think I'll pass.... That info that shawn posted..... not sure where he got that, but he may have done his calculations thinking the EA81 was 9:1, when it's actually 8.7:1 stock. If you take the numbers I listed, and factor in taking 25 - 30 thou off the heads as well, that's maybe a .040" difference in chamber volume... which IIRC worked out to less than 9.5:1, but more than 9:1.... FWIW. GD

A simple resistance check between the battery terminals with the battery out of the car will tell you immediately if the battery or the car is at fualt for the drain. If the see a drain, then check for continuity between the output lug of the alternator, and ground. There shouldn't be ANY reading. Just went through this exact problem with a GM alt that a friend had on his EA81. Brand new from Autozone, and the rectifier diode(s) failed and caused the same gradual battery drain you are describing. A simple check as I mentioned above will tell you immediately. A lot of times these rebuilt alts are cheaply done. There's no reason to beleive that new battery cables will solve it - even if they were bad it still wouldn't cause the battery to drain, you would just see problems with grounding, and with running the starter. If anything, bad cables would cause it NOT to drain. GD

I measured it, and from the wrist pin to the piston top, the EA71 piston is right around .008" - .010" taller. It's not much really at all. If you shave the heads the full .020" (or even .025", and enlarge the manifold holes) you can get it up to around 9.3:1 by my calculations.... I'm using them in the engine I'm building right now, but in the future I would use the SPFI pistons. The EA71 pistons have very thin ring lands, and the SPFI are much easier to get, and provide higher comp. GD

Yeah - that's what I was quoted - although he said "about $7 each" for the hydro lifters. Don't forget shipping, but that's not a lot. The EA cams are small. GD

Yeah - the copper tubing is a great idea. And you can probably get it in any length. For what it's worth, I've had the (quality) plastic tubing in place for quite a while without problems, but the cheap tubing that came with the cheap wally-world guage was REALLY cheap. The plastic was too thin, and the copper compression fittings would cut right through it if you tightened it enough to actually not leak. And it kinked really easily too. BAD stuff - and I think it wasn't even true nylon material - cheap Chinese plastic or something. There's a world of difference in tubing quality it seems. I got the 16 foot VDO tubing kit.... here's an web site that has the kit: http://www.egauges.com/vdo_acce.asp?Subgroup=Nylon_Tubing_10&Manf=All (anyone have a source for more than 6 feet of copper? http://www.egauges.com/vdo_acce.asp?Subgroup=Copper_Tubing&Manf=All ) And I used the compression fittings that came with the VDO tubing. No leaks, and the tubing is very tight. At about $12 (I beleive shucks/kragen carries the VDO stuff, and most VW discount parts houses), 16 feet will do two soobs worth of guages if you are careful about how you run it. Basically to do a cheap mechanical guage you are looking at: $10 for the guage (wall-mart, etc) $12 for the tubing $2 for the right angle 1/8" NPT fitting (home depot) (add another $12 or so for the metric adaptor if you don't make your own) That's about $25 - $35.... well worth the effort for a decent guage with real numbers on it. GD

Bad diodes in the voltage regulator rectifier circuit can cause the system to short and drain the battery. Check for continiuty between the positive and negative battery cables without the battery installed. You should have VERY high resistance as the only accesories that should be on are the clock and radio memory, and the ECU memory. Pull out fuses till you find the shorted circuit. Disconnect the alternator, etc till the reading goes to infinity. That's how I always track down battery drain issues. GD

Mixture is not adjustable on any of the stock carbs. Try pumping the gas while cranking to start it and then hold it at 2k rpms or so till it warms enough to run on it's own. Rebuild the carb - the choke and high idle cam aren't working. Spring could be broken, etc. Till you do, adjust the choke housing so it's just open all the time and follow the procedure I outlined above to start it. Or replace it with a Weber - much better all around. I have tossed all my Hitachi's in a dumpster. The Weber is awesome. GD

Could be a ground issue... But I second the aftermarket guage. Even a cheap one will be more accurate, and you don't want to risk the head gaskets on the EA82's. Yes you will have to replace the sender with the aftermarket version. You would be wise to install an oil pressure guage. Lack of an OP guage is what has done-in most of the digital cars. GD

You bought a 4WD clutch, so you need a 4WD flywheel. If your disc won't fit in the flywheel, then you need the 4WD one. Just take it apart and you will see. Anything in your '82 will be wrong for the 4WD clutch (assuming it's stock). If the 86 engine came with a flywheel it may or may not be right depending on if it's a 4WD engine or not. GD

Typically the t-belts last 50k - 60k. No special tools needed. There has been talk of "tensioning" the belts but all evidence points to that not really being needed. As long as they are tight they all seem to go about 60k and that's it. You are likely on the third set by now, and 180 is perfect for #4. GD

Installation isn't difficult - you can get longer tubes (and better quality) from any of the VW aftermarket (engine in the rear, so LONG tube is needed). The one I used I got at discount import and it was 16 feet long I think - enough to do two soobs. And you *could* buy the adaptor for the metric hole, or use the 1/8 NPT on the side of the pump.... I just couldn't get the plug out of the 1/8" hole, and didn't want to buy one so I cut the end off the soob sender and drilled/tapped it. Yeah - I've had them tick after doing head gaskets, but not for very long. I have run them down to where there's no oil on the dipstick and it's taken over 2 quarts to fill it back up.... that's as far down as I've ever let one get. ... I was mostly refering to the fact that the EA81 hydro's don't exhibit the typical "TOD" when they are full of oil like the EA82's often do. GD

This is EA81 land. They will NEVER tick (most don't have hydraulic lifters, and the ones that do don't tick either). The only ticking you hear will be the knock of the rod bearings on their way out. So no, they will not "let you know" Also, zero oil pressure, while common in EA82 land (because of the crappy stock guage) is NOT common in the EA81. Any EA81 that reads below 20 psi warm idle needs help. Period. Besides, it's the guages that cause the "zero oil pressure reading" on the EA82. I have a mechanical guage on my 86 sedan with 230,000 miles on the engine. Still reads over 25 psi hot idle. Take it from someone that has blown a rod through the crankcase because of low oil pressure - get a new pump. GD

I have done both, and for simplicity, I like the mechanical unit. The eletric stuff is more expensive, and especially if you want to be able to find spare parts later (new sending units, etc) then you have to stick with a name brand. I have an Autometer electric cluster, and I love it. But the cost is higher. Also it's much easier to eliminate the low-hanging sender with a right angle right off the pump (for the tube) than it is to run a pipe (or braided SS hose in my case) to another location and mount the sender. Mechanical is quicker, easier, and less expensive (under $20). Electric is fancier, less likely to leak or rupture (although this isn't likely with quality tubing) and less sensitive to vibration in the guage itself. It's all a trade off. Having done both, I like my electric for off-road, but at $70 for the cluster, and another ~$50 for hardware, and the SS braided line I used to remote locate the sender..... cheap mechanical FTW. GD