GeneralDisorder

Tons - just pull up a search for "EA82 Head Gasket" and you'll get a lot of reading material. GD

No - not unless it's leaking so bad that you have a puddle under the car. When they fail (there's only one moving part) the bearings go out and they leak like crazy. There is no failure mode for the water pump where it's "effectiveness" is reduced. It either works or does not. GD

Head Gaskets are generally about a 4 - 8 hour job depending on skill level and how many times you have done it (and how many problems you run into) - not including machine shop time if the heads need to be milled (likely they are warped if it's been that hot). I would definately make sure you are on the right track before you dive into those, but it's very common with the EA82 when it's been overheated. GD

What are you trying to do? Lower it? Raise it? Better handling? Tighter as in what? Stiffer springs for handling? Lower to the ground? There really isn't any web sites for this - you have to find something that fits your application and make it work. You may have to cut some springs down, or modify the spring perches on the strut tube, etc. If you convert to 5 lug suspension using XT6 parts, you'll have a lot more options for front struts - the rear is just a coil-over and there are some accord springs that are similarly sized. GD

Do a search for "Axle Replacement" this has been covered weekly on here for years.... GD

Losses oil pressure and dies?!?! That's not normal at all. If it got that hot, the engine has almost certainly blown a head gasket. Do a compression test, and check for oil/water mixing. And a pressure test would be a good idea as well to see where you are losing pressure. A bad radiator could have started this whole mess - they often do. GD

Any pump from an EA82 Turbo will work - see your local pull-a-part for details. Should be less than $20 for a used unit. Do a search on here for Ford Fuel Pump - there's some reasonably priced units that will do the job. GD

Coil is red to positive and yellow to negative from the distributor, and there should be another red wire from the car harness that goes to the positive on the coil to provide power, and another yellow wire on the car - your tach signal. Timing = 8 degrees. GD

The 90's Ford Ranger's had a pump that will work - do a search for it on here. Apparently you want the one that is mounted on the frame rail, not in the tank. Frankly tho, the pumps are pretty tough - junk yard pumps can be had cheaply. GD

They didn't change the name - the EA82 GL series was always known as the Loyale from day 1. In fact the rest of the world called them Loyale - it was just in the US that they didn't receive this badge. The name change was to facilitate the introduction of the Legacy in 1990. They didn't want any confusion of people thinking a Loyale was really a "Legacy GL" or something. EA81's were known as the Leone. GD

That's completely untrue. It's got nothing to do with the Weber. I've owned three stock subaru's with Weber's on them. 2WD I got 33 MPG, 4WD I got 28 MPG. Very consistent. As with anything you have to know what you are doing when you install and tune it. My lifted wagon with a Weber gets about 20 - 22 MPG. It has nothing to do with the carb - it's the same carb it had when it was 2WD and getting 33 MPG. The difference is in the tires, higher rolling resistance, and worse drag. Many people also forget that you have to compensate for the odometer being off (14% or so in my case) when you calculate miles traveled and use it for calculating MPG. GD

Heh - you wouldn't even be able to get those on your hatch without a lift. They may seem small to you, but those are about 29" tires. You would have to do a lot of beating and cutting to mount those WITH a lift. I have 5", and I'm running 28's with only minimal rubbing. Still had to cut and beat to get them on. AT's are useless - might as well be running street tires. The thread fills up with mud and turns them into a big slick mess. Good for desert racing - that's about it. GD

Tie rods simply can't change your camber - they can change the toe setting, but that is all. The camber will look weird if you have had it jacked up and haven't driven it yet.... or if the wheel is turned the bottom of the tire will tuck inward. Should be pretty straight up and down with the wheel pointing straight ahead. But again - tie rods can't change your camber. In fact, nothing can on a stock subaru - it's not technically adjustable. GD

Yeah - the turbo pistons are pretty burly. More so than the N/A ones it seems - people have blown the ring lands, and cracked pistons using N/A blocks (pistons too) with turbo parts. All the subaru rods I've ever seen were cast - but they are so short and stubby.... very tough units. GD

Check www.thepartsbin.com - rock auto often lists a lot of bogus parts that you have to sort through with half a mind on what the original looks like. XT's are the weird man out in the EA82 line, so anything that comes up "different" is often attributed to them. They even have a seperate section in my parts "quick reference"... alas it does not show tie rod ends. Sorry, I tried..... call the dealer and have them sort it out with their parts computers. Get an OEM part number and have it cross-referenced by your parts store. GD

No changes to the input shaft or throwout bearing are needed. I have an 82 trans in my lifted 84 actually. All you need is the flywheel, and an 84 4WD clutch disc and pressure plate. All the EA81 transmissions have the same input shaft - even the 2WD (and EA82 2WD's too - same trans). I actually pieced mine together using an 84 flywheel from the junk yard, and an 84 clutch setup I got from a friend.... Apparently, if you use the release bearing from a mid 80's or early 90's nissan pickup, you can also fit the EA82 flywheel and pressure plate (or XT6 ) and use the EA81 225mm disc... GD

Different sizes/wear on the tires will do this easily. Different brands of tires on any of the four will almost always do it due to differences in marked sizes versus actual manfactured diameter. Four brand new tires will almost certainly fix your problems. Even on hard surfaces if you are traveling is a straight line (with correct tires) you should be able to go in and out of 4WD with ease without touching the clutch at all. GD

Hhmmm - might be for an XT6 or something. That certainly doesn't sound right. Knuckles are the same on all GL's regardless of power or manual, so that wouldn't make any difference. GD

90 Loyale Turbo. They made a few with the RS badge. GD

Slipping would mean the cable is too tight (it's already too short in other words) - which is virtually impossible if no one has adjusted it...... time for a new clutch pack. GD

Probably was going for something like this. STi made a proper Forester.... we just didn't get them in the US. http://www.caranddriver.com/article.asp?section_id=41&article_id=8310 GD

My friend said a 30 gallon tank he figured was good for 600 miles or so. GD

US postal web site says about $70 to ship 40 lbs.... 4 to 6 weeks for delivery. Even at the going rate around here on the site of $100 that's still cheaper than you get them locally. And if you wanted a couple sets it probably would be more economical. GD

The mounts can really hurt the joints themselves, but not really be boots. Boots are usually a result of really thin rubber boots used by rebuilders. Or in the case of the passenger side the cat not having a heat shield. Get some GCK axles and be done with axles for a LONG time (Autozone sells em). http://www.gck.com/ Urethane boots are possible too - check into the VW aftermarket.... GD

Well - can't say about what was done to it by the tractor mechanic previous owner (no - really he was an honest-to-god tractor mechanic ), but it had excelent power the whole time I ran it. I could burn em in first and chirp em into second pretty easily. Top speed was well over 95. I personally adjusted the valves about 20,000 miles ago when I had .025" taken off the heads (there's a special adjustment for this situation), and I adjusted them again right before I pulled it on a sugestion that I may have not got them adjusted right that first time because of inflation issues due to the heads being off. Didn't change anything - the idle was still just as bad, and the knock never changed. Heads and valves look alright - no evidence of a problem there. Pushrods are all straight, etc. I pulled each plug wire with it running and it didn't make any difference in the knock. FSM points to the cam journals...... I don't know what I can do about that tho since they don't have bearings. I'm hoping it's not that or I'll have to swap blocks. Still gotta get some plastiguage so I can check the cam journals. GD