GeneralDisorder

Ok - so by the numbers we have already, it would seem that your 81 has an 84/85 motor in it. Are there gold stickers to indicate hydro lifters? GD

It's not just the drilling - the Pug's don't always have the right offset for what some of us need. GD

I have one - Harbor Frieght - $39.99. GD

It's a 4WD hatch with 74 HP..... not to mention it's a $600, 80's car... AND the bottom of the line model. Step back for a moment and think this through - you're polishing a turd. I applaud you for wanting to be like Chip Foose, but that aint the ride to start with. Find something that will actually be worth your effort in the end. If you really want to do stuff like this, take some community college classes or something. Do some "book learnin" and some research..... and think things through. For example - you are totally hot to lower this car RIGHT NOW. Have you even thought that you will probably want some decent looking "riced" rims for that turd? And where are you going to get them? Converting to a different bolt pattern is probably the best bet, and probably you'll have to change the struts/springs as well. So..... it would be wise to work from the bottom up - the wheels are the last link in the chain, and they will dictate everything else that has to be done. Get your rims/tires and work from their size and bolt pattern to get the car to the height your need. Otherwise your just kicking yourself in the a_ss. GD *edit* I said :lol:"TURD":lol:

We have no build date on your JDM engine - so no. It's not helpful. That and I would wager that the JDM stuff had it's own serial numbers seperate from export. Hard to say for sure tho. Caboobaroo - we need build dates.... and there's something up with that engine in your 81 - clearly a replacement engine going by the serial. GD

+1. Can't hurt it much at this point. GD

4WD torsion bar is already adjustable. Cutting the springs is just fine - low-rider community has been doing it for years. Bandsaw with water jet is the prefered method, but a blue wrench will do it too. As mentioned - lots of water. Still.... I think it will look stupid, but whatever. GD

+1 Spanky - clearly you have not been off-road enough with your manual steering. It WILL rip the wheel out of your hands. And you need to try out the power steering sometime too in order to really appreciate it. GD

It's not terribly difficult to dremel off the mounts, and weld them to another control arm. It's been done. They are litterally just some bent peices of metal with a capture nut in them. Being that the EA81 never had rear sway's here in the states, in order to fit the EA82 rear bar we have to weld the mounts to the control arms. But if you already have an EA82 - swapping the control arm itself is just as much work, and no welding involved. GD

EA82's with manual steering are RARE. Just get a generic bellows kit - it will work fine. GD

I've used RTV many times - both with and without a gaskets. Never had one leak yet. Just don't use too much. 1/8" bead is more than enough. GD

Use a wider offset rim - like a Chevy 15x6. I have no rubbing issues with the rear coils (EA82 adjustable, 215/75r15) on my 84 wagon. GD

Total Fill - 4 or 5 quarts of it. GD

I think you are refering to the timing belt tensioner and idler on the drivers side? If so, you can replace both of those easily and cheaply.... timing belt covers should go in the trash can anyway - most people here don't replace them. GD

I've been pushing 28's (MT's) with my EA81 power steering for going on 3 years now. Never had any problems. I even tore the rack down a while back and cleaned/regreased the entire thing. Installed new boots, etc. I would not have a lifted subaru without the power steering - and several who have driven mine have had to convert... GD

Much better to just buy another wagon. They are plentiful, and the FWD Auto makes a nice economical commuter. They serisously get like 35 MPG freeway. A conversion requires a LOT of parts - even more for an Auto conversion. Take it from me - I've done it. And I had a whole donor car to work with. GD

Running straight ATF will clean the syncros off (ATF has a ton of detergents in it). The Redline is spendy, but will help too. Between them it should take care of most of the issue. GD

Run some ATF through the tranny, and refill with redline after a few hundred miles. The problem is not the syncro's wearing out, but a layer of varnish on them. I've heard that when torn down, they often just need to be deglazed - no replacement is needed. GD

Now you feel just like I do about oil pumps huh? :-\ GD

They are so increddibly plentiful in good used condition that it's pointless. Any of the PAP's in WA will sell you one for $100 plus tax. No way you could rebuild one for that kind of cost. GD

Yes - the mount you speak of for the diff should not be solid rubber - think of it as a "wheel" of rubber with spokes of rubber connecting the outer large ring with the inner bolt hole. Between the spokes the rubber is left out to make that bushing "softer" to dampen vibration better. Glad they located the really horrible noise. Good luck with the vibration. GD

Also - while hydraulics are a severe application, the cam case o-rings are subjected to more heat than a typical hydraulic system, and engine oil usually has trace amounts of fuel solvents dissolved in it as well. A regular o-ring will flatten out, harden, and possibly crack and get sucked into the oil passage - causeing all sorts of damage in the process. EA82 lifters already have a tendancy to tick loudly if you make a funny face at them - lets not make the problem worse with incorrect oil seals.... Lets see..... save ~$4.... or spend $5 and have the correct part.... your call. GD

Probably - but I would just find another set of heads. Otherwise you'll definately need a complete valve job - new guides and all. And if it got that hot, they are probably cracked and warped too. GD

I'm afraid it comes down to sloppy shifter bit's inside the tranny. This is caused primarily from people grinding the gears. The little notches that engage each other to hook the gears together are what get "ground" down and there really isn't a fix for it - time for a 5 speed. GD

Smack the valve's a couple times with a hammer - maybe they will break free. Probably smoke like a chimney tho. GD