GeneralDisorder

No such thing You'll have to retrofit the drive gear for an EA82 to the EA71 points disty, and modify the mounting tab for it to bolt down and be properly adjustable. GD

Lots of us have them - you have to pull a rear axle on pavement or you will snap axle joints with big tires. Smaller tires you will just get a lot of chirping and binding around corners - still hard on the joints, and better to pull one. GD

We have a winner! That's exactly what mine did - only on wet pavement. I installed the valve and she brakes 100% straight. GD

If you are putting the discs on an EA81 then yes - you need the valve. EA81's have no proportioning control at all. I've said it before, but people on here refuse to listen. I did a skid test with my Brat (not lifted) and the difference is pretty scary without the valve. There's really a lot more differences than people here realize - for example there are two sizes of rear discs - wagon/coupe and sedan. For some reason the sedan got smaller rear calipers. This also means different proportioning control as hinted at above.... GD

That's what we are trying to determine - the pattern. Actually it seems that they may have "rolled over" - hit the 1,000,000 mark sometime in '82. Hence the 01/82 of 931272, and the 04/82 of 009899. GD

Outside edge tread wear is almost always due to bad ball joints. In a turn the looseness in the ball joint allows the force on the tire to tuck it under slightly on turns - causing the tire to ride up on it's edge. GD

Intake and all attached bits, disty, ECU, Complete forward wireing harness and the relays and fuse panel and junk that's attached to it under the dash (by FAR the hardest to pull), and the disty. Don't need the alt - EA81/82 are pretty much the same (50/55 amp). As for attaching the gear - Some have welded it - I lined it up very carefully and drilled a new pin hole with my $40 harbor frieght drill press. The bit I used was very slightly larger than the original hole which worked out good as the new hole in the disty and the gear (I drilled through both at the same time) were the same size. I took the original spring roll pin and used a large flat wood chisel with a sharp edge to drive the roll pin apart a little a make it big enough to fit snug in the new hole. Then you have to cut off one mounting tab (I used a band saw), and remove part of the metal plate covering the wiring on the bottom of the disty. That's as far as I've got so far - had a little issue with brake shoes on my sedan so had to unexpectedly drive my EA81 for a few days before I had time to fix the brakes. I'm actually planning to work on it more today. GD

Float needle and seat are sticking in the closed or partially closed position. I've had that on a couple of Hitachi's. Very annoying. Some rebuild kits are poor quality. Could be a short in the fuel pump circuit or a bad fuel pump control unit too. GD

Those numbers look pretty decent - and there is not enough difference between the low cylinder and high cylinder to cause any sort of noticeable vibration. Ideally you would want no more than 10% difference, but 15% is fine - it's probably a valve seat on that cylinder - the rings seem to be wearing in quite well. As long as your fluids are good, it sounds like you are a good to go on the engine itself. Your vibration is in the drivetrain - no doubt about it. It's most likely directly related to your "new" axles. Personally I use the ones made by GCK Industrial, but even though they are generally VERY good and strong, a friend of mine had the exact symtoms you are having after installing a pair. He reverted to his old axles and all was well again - he went with rebilt units for that car. I have had no problems..... other than a slight increase in vibration on my lifted wagon - same type - accelerating in first gear..... and I suspect he got one bad axle in the two he ordered. It only takes a small mis-calculation in machineing, or accidentally using the wrong joint parts off the shelf when assembling it.... GD

Your corning is of course somewhat dependant on the height, but it will corner like the turd it is unless you: 1. Add a rear sway bar from a Turbo EA82 2. Convert to front EA82/XT6 hybrid 5 lug suspension so you can make the front sway BIG. 3. Lower profile, wider tires - less sidewall flex. Add some more offset to your rim choice to widen the track too. 4. And the LAST thing you do is lower it (this is mostly for less drag really), and stiffen the springs. If you just cut the springs it has, you'll still get nearly the same amount of body roll as there is NO rear sway bar, a teensy tiny front sway bar, a suspension made of chewing gum bushings, and springs made like a slinky. The hatch is so increddibly light anyway, that lowering it's already low center of gravity (remember this is a boxer engine with a transaxle) probably won't be noticeable. But just adding a rear sway bar will make it corner like a slot car. GD

Ok - so by the numbers we have already, it would seem that your 81 has an 84/85 motor in it. Are there gold stickers to indicate hydro lifters? GD

It's not just the drilling - the Pug's don't always have the right offset for what some of us need. GD

I have one - Harbor Frieght - $39.99. GD

It's a 4WD hatch with 74 HP..... not to mention it's a $600, 80's car... AND the bottom of the line model. Step back for a moment and think this through - you're polishing a turd. I applaud you for wanting to be like Chip Foose, but that aint the ride to start with. Find something that will actually be worth your effort in the end. If you really want to do stuff like this, take some community college classes or something. Do some "book learnin" and some research..... and think things through. For example - you are totally hot to lower this car RIGHT NOW. Have you even thought that you will probably want some decent looking "riced" rims for that turd? And where are you going to get them? Converting to a different bolt pattern is probably the best bet, and probably you'll have to change the struts/springs as well. So..... it would be wise to work from the bottom up - the wheels are the last link in the chain, and they will dictate everything else that has to be done. Get your rims/tires and work from their size and bolt pattern to get the car to the height your need. Otherwise your just kicking yourself in the a_ss. GD *edit* I said :lol:"TURD":lol:

We have no build date on your JDM engine - so no. It's not helpful. That and I would wager that the JDM stuff had it's own serial numbers seperate from export. Hard to say for sure tho. Caboobaroo - we need build dates.... and there's something up with that engine in your 81 - clearly a replacement engine going by the serial. GD

+1. Can't hurt it much at this point. GD

4WD torsion bar is already adjustable. Cutting the springs is just fine - low-rider community has been doing it for years. Bandsaw with water jet is the prefered method, but a blue wrench will do it too. As mentioned - lots of water. Still.... I think it will look stupid, but whatever. GD

+1 Spanky - clearly you have not been off-road enough with your manual steering. It WILL rip the wheel out of your hands. And you need to try out the power steering sometime too in order to really appreciate it. GD

It's not terribly difficult to dremel off the mounts, and weld them to another control arm. It's been done. They are litterally just some bent peices of metal with a capture nut in them. Being that the EA81 never had rear sway's here in the states, in order to fit the EA82 rear bar we have to weld the mounts to the control arms. But if you already have an EA82 - swapping the control arm itself is just as much work, and no welding involved. GD

EA82's with manual steering are RARE. Just get a generic bellows kit - it will work fine. GD

I've used RTV many times - both with and without a gaskets. Never had one leak yet. Just don't use too much. 1/8" bead is more than enough. GD

Use a wider offset rim - like a Chevy 15x6. I have no rubbing issues with the rear coils (EA82 adjustable, 215/75r15) on my 84 wagon. GD

Total Fill - 4 or 5 quarts of it. GD

I think you are refering to the timing belt tensioner and idler on the drivers side? If so, you can replace both of those easily and cheaply.... timing belt covers should go in the trash can anyway - most people here don't replace them. GD

I've been pushing 28's (MT's) with my EA81 power steering for going on 3 years now. Never had any problems. I even tore the rack down a while back and cleaned/regreased the entire thing. Installed new boots, etc. I would not have a lifted subaru without the power steering - and several who have driven mine have had to convert... GD