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GeneralDisorder

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Everything posted by GeneralDisorder

  1. He's had that scoop since before WCSS5. Nothing new there. GD
  2. I was going to do a sentance by sentance breakdown of his post, but thought better of it..... someone else should handle this one. Death and dismemberment at my hands might result in me regretting my words later..... GD
  3. I'll not rain fire and brimstone down upon this one, due to his low post count, and I already answered with accurate information above. It's still disturbing tho. Left me almost speechless, as I haven't seen that quantity of innacurate information in a single post in a quite some time! GD
  4. Frankly - depends on what you have them do, and what kind of mood they are in. The prices also vary acording to how much you look like you might have in your wallet. Pretty good guys tho. GD
  5. That's their price for just the advance unit. They open it up like a tin can, and replace the rubber inside. It's either $25 or $35 - it's on their site somewhere.... GD
  6. Any EA81 radiator will work (unless you have an automatic). GD
  7. Not your fault Flow - absolutely an incorrectly printed document. The picture you provided claims to work on 1980 models, but is not fully accurate for that year. No one blame's you, and it's good that we now know it's wrong. Thanks for shareing! GD
  8. Most likely you didn't hurt anything, but EA81 HG's do blow if overheated too long/too often, so you never know. Watch for water in the oil, or the other way around. GD
  9. Well, you will need to drop the transmission, and pull off the extension housing from the main transmission body. Once you do that, I think the seal should be easily accesible. I'm not actually sure there is a seal tho - I can't remember, but it may just be a hole without any seal.... likely in that case that the aluminium casting is worn down and needs to be bored out and a sleeve installed. GD
  10. Figured out where your gonna put the radiator yet? GD
  11. OMG - that last post is just plain SCARY it's so wrong. You sir, will be burned to death by the flames that will ensue GD
  12. 83 and 84 hydro engines came on automatics only, and ALL EA81's from 85 on were hydraulic. Sadly, 83 and 84 manual's (the most prevelant EA81's in existance), are solid. Now, previously I had thought that only the hydro engines had the larger intake valve, but it has recently come to my attention that ALL EA81's from 83 on had the larger intake valves. It's not a matter of hydro lifters or not, simply a change that took place in 83. That beign said, there is NO difference (according to the FSM's, and parts manuals I have) between the engine in a Brat and the engine in anything else. And that includes the distibutor advance. The advance curve is the same regardless of 2WD or 4WD. It just happens they used a different brand. This also goes for the cam - same part number there too. There ARE two cams listed - one for hydraulic, and one for solid. They are not interchangeable without changeing the rest of the valve train (rocker assembly, push rods, and lifters). The hydro lifters will fit into a solid caseing, but will not be removable like they were in the hydro caseing, as the block casting itself is different to allow removal. GD
  13. There have been several reports of NA MPFI GL's that were not XT's. I have not seen one, but others on here have. Some 82's had the quad headlight's - but only 2WD's as I recall. 83 was the year that the 4WD GL's got the quad setup. GD
  14. If you read it as if you are missing the first two digits, then you have a: 1980 EA81 Wagon The chart above is WRONG according to my 1980 FSM. That chart up there says the G in "f-a-g" is an indicator of the transmission, but it's actually an indicator of the plant of origin. There is also a G in the example in my FSM... Now - cross-refenceing that information with the models availible in 1980, the only EA81 based wagon that year was a GL Automatic, so now you have and engine from a: 1980 EA81 Wagon GL Automatic. Which, BTW, means you have the small valve heads. The intake valves got bigger on all EA81's from 83-89, yeilding a bit more HP. GD
  15. Not cheap - just take your old one to: www.philbingroup.com They will make it brand new again for $35 GD
  16. Yes - stReam - although a thin one for sure. No problem with you Scooby - it's Bill up thar ^ that thinks it would be really funny to provide a garden hose for me to play with. Apparently me steam cleaning my cylinders is highly amusing. Ha-Ha, very funny. GD
  17. I guess people think that I have over 3000 posts here because I routinely hydrolock all my engines with a garden hose. Beleive what you want - but why do you suppose that engines with blown HG's still run, and pour loads of smelly steam out the tail-pipe? Because a little water in the cylinder WILL NOT KILL your engine. Water injection is used often to cool the incomming air, and increase compression. It both cools the charge so it's denser, and it also fills part of the cylinder with unburnable water vapor - this increases compression. It also cleans the hell out of anything it touches. That's why people use steam cleaners to clean nasty engine parts..... GD
  18. Apparently you have never tried it then. It won't hydrolock because it isn't water - it's steam. Remember that the engine is running at 200+ degrees, and even higher inside the combustion chamber. A small stream of water (not enough to kill it) will vaporize instantly. Besides - ever heard of water injection? Beleive me - it works, and I've used this method for years. My auto shop teacher in high school actually showed us that..... GD
  19. A lot of the XT's have MPFI without turbo. Generally with the spider intake. GD
  20. Get a disty from the JY if you can, and either use the plate from it, or have it rebuilt. GD
  21. My guess is that this pic was shot right after the new wheels and tires were installed for the first time. Apparently you were present for this historic event Zap? GD
  22. You can backyard steam clean the cylinders by running a stream of water through the throttle body while the engine is held around 2500 RPM's. That will be a decent job of cleaning your cylinders, and it's cheap. GD
  23. It appears (although it's hard to tell), that he has gone to either a 6 inch lift, or done the transfer case swap...... the front cross-member is awful low . Am I close? It has almost certainly gone higher, because those are not the TSL's that Ken was running before. They are too big, and totally the wrong tread pattern...... besides that, you can see the stack of the swampers in the background GD
  24. You are missing the first two digits - at least from what I can tell. That was what I based my original analysis on. GD
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