GeneralDisorder

MSD makes good high power coils, but as far as I can tell, a stock one should be all you need. Put it this way - if you're seeing a performance boost from a high power coil, then your old coil was probably weak, and you would have seen the same performance boost from a new stock coil. That, and just the act of properly gapping the plugs could account for what most people claim as "performance". If the spark lights the mixture then it worked, if it didn't you have a miss. It's one or the other. There is no "better" or "worse" for ignition in these cars. You either have a miss or you don't. The stock coil's last a LONG time, and I see no reason to upgrade. One should note that the resistance of the coil must match the distributor, and if it does not, damage to the coil WILL result. This may account for some of your "problems" you guys are seeing. GD

Search on this board for stuff about Peugot alloy's, and for information on the XT6 5 lug conversion. Then you could use any 5 lug wheel such as came on legacy's and impreza's.... GD

Yeah - I can see how that would help the angle of the cable a bit. For what it costs new, it should be part of the $350 "kit" that redline puts together for our cars. One more reason to not buy the "kit". I got two of the brackets from a local import shop that had em laying around loose. They charged me $5 for both since there was no part number associated with em. Hehe. GD

Been fighting with how to mount your throttle cable? Me too, till I found that the redline idiots didn't bother to include the relevant linkage bits that make the job easy, and simple: It's a redline part - availible (from what I can tell) only as part of a linkage "kit". Part number 99007.116. Jam engineering lists the kit at $20.... http://www.jameng.com/products/index.phtml?section=13 GD

The XT6 clutch can be fit with some modification I believe.... GD

Glad to hear that you have the correct fluids. Having never owned an auto myself, I mistakenly thought they didn't have sticks for the hydraulic fluid. Wonder where I got that from.... huh. Don't be scared of the hitachi. It's no worse than any other carb, and the bad reputation it has is not deserved. I could rebuild it for you, but I'm afraid it would cost more than the $20 your looking to spend. Probably more like $100 plus shipping. Swapping carbs might be a cheaper option, but finding one for your year could be tricky. All Hitachi's aren't the same, and you need the proper one in order for it to hook up right with your vacuum lines. Other years *may* work - with slight modifications to your vacuum routing, and possibly not so slight modifications, but it requires that you have an intimate knowledge of the vacuum system, and understand what each line is for and how it should be hooked up. Even tho I know the system quite well I find that I need to refer to the FSM for the year that I'm putting the carb on, and the year the carb came off in order to succesfully restore the carb to proper operating condition. Bad gas mileage (less than 20) is the least you can hope for if it's done incorrectly. I would say that improper routing, bad vacuum components, and bad choke adjustment is the cause of most people's problems with the Hitachi, which isn't a bad carb at all once you get past it's scary looks, and complex vacuum system. GD

Well - I say rebuild your carb yourself - probably fix a LOT of your problems in that respect. The 2000 RPM idle is probably your choke mechanism But.... sorry to say that your trans is probably shot. Sounds like the diff is going south. The EA series autmatics are not known for reliability over 200k miles. Somtimes much less than that. You should know that your trans has two types of fluid - the front differential uses plain old 90 weight gear oil.... also if your checking the fluid, how are you doing it? The only way to check the "red" fluid in an automatic is to pull the plug on the side of the trans - the dip stick goes to the diff, and if that's red........ well you get the idea. BAD TIMES. GD

Buy your T-stat from the dealer - same goes for your cap. Aftermarket can vary wildly. As for an overflow - you don't need one. A properly operating cooling system should not require an overflow tank. It's only there in case you DO overheat. GD

Probably be easier to do scissor doors for the reason Trog just mentioned.... still a ton of work tho. GD

Most important thing is to remove the jets (under the float bowl), and make sure there is nothing in the float bowl itself to mess up the spray pattern of the jets. As you have noticed, gunk likes to sit right in that spot. I'm really at a loss as to why Hitachi didn't put a screen of some sort down there to catch at least the big stuff. GD

Sure - but you have more "padding" than I do . The tranny isn't so heavy, but it has lots of sharp edges that dig into my ribs - not good. Having the back end supported by a rope helps to get it on your chest. And having someone up above to tell you what's going on with that input shaft is good too. As for tipping the engine backwards - on the EA81's you can just adjust the pitching stopper backwards.... and on the EA82's Subaru makes a special "adjustable" pitching stopper just for transmission installation.... GD

Under the alternator on the block - as accurate a description of the water pump as I have ever seen. You sure it wasn't jsut spraying from the overflow line.... try a new radiator cap if that's the case. GD

The EA81 hydro lifters do not have the ticking problems that are common to the EA82's.... and yes the hydro engines are rated higher on the HP scale - I believe the numbers were around 72 for the solid lifter engine, and 80 for the hydro lifter block. The whole valve train on the hydro engine is different - cam, lifters, push rods, rocker assembly... and the valves are physically bigger. Also the block itself is different in that you can remove the lifters from below on a hydro engine, but the casting on a solid block will not allow this - so while you can put the hydro lifter valve train into a solid block, you will render the lifters unserviceable by doing so. For comparison the Dual carb EA81 engine that came in the JDM RX was 110 HP. GD

Ditto - next time just rock the engine forward with the radiator removed - no need to remove either one actually. Put a rope around the output shaft, run that up through the shifter hole, and lift the rear end of the tranny up then slam the rope in the door to hold it up like that. Then get yourself under the tranny (feet towards the front of the car), and have a friend lift up the front of the tranny so you can get under it - then just bench it into place. Or get a tranny jack - they are only like $50 from Harbor Frieght. GD

Biggest performance mod you can do is dump the automatic. They rob somewhere around 75% of your power durring acceleration. It will feel like a new car with a 5 speed, and a tune-up. My Brat only has 80 HP and a 4 speed, but now that I have it in good tune it will smoke tires on demand, chirp em into 2nd, and do 90 on the freeway flat out (3.9 gears and the 4 speed suck for high end). Short of rebuilding your engine with different cams and decked heads, etc, I think your just SOL for much over 100 HP. Open up the intake, open the exhaust, make sure the SPFI is all in top form..... GD

Oil pump gasket kit is only $8 from the dealer, and takes 30 minutes if your being careful and cleaning things well as you go, so there's almost no reason not to. Give you a chance to inspect the pump mechanicals while your in there. GD

Most likely you need to buy new adjusters. They are often times welded beyond repair with brake dust and heat from the shoes. I've even removed them and used a vise and a pipe wrench - I have always failed to ressurect them after they are like that. Busted a couple off even. I don't even try now - I just find some that are working, or get new ones. GD

Or the engine was swapped out... I seem to recall clanteri doing that right moose? GD

Maybe new sending units are in order for a lot of us. They aren't real expensive.... GD

My Brat had the same symptoms - I think it was an exhaust leak. Changed the y-pipe and haven't heard it since. GD

No - I think you might get a little better low end torque, but you won't gain any HP from it to speak of. Opening up the exhuast, and the SPFI might get you close to 80 HP.... but a stock hydro lifter EA81 already has 80 HP. Your's is rated at 73. If you want more horses, you need to start with a hydro lifter engine, and build it up with a different cam, decked heads, and taller pistons. The 8.7:1 compression is just too low as it is. And yes - you need the ECU portion of the SPFI wireing harness. GD

Sounds like it has good oil pump seals. I've resealed engines with near 200k miles and got oil pressures like that. No big deal. The EA81's run high like that when the pumps are in top form. GD

A properly tuned EA81 is *nearly* impossible to overheat. If you have oil, OR coolant, you'll be fine regardless of what the guage reads. They are as much oil cooled as water cooled. Check your fan tho - sounds like the thermoswitch is either junk, or the connections are corroded. GD

(in my best cartman voice) "Ya shouldnta done that - he was just a boy - poor little feller" Anyone remeber redneck rampage? "Dat one blowed up REAL good!" GD

If your Brat has an 02, you should be able to wire that up fine. You do need the fuel pump because the SPFI runs at a MUCH higher pressure than a carb. I sugest mounting it in the engine bay, and supplying the SPFI pump using your stock pump. You do need the SPFI distributor because it has a crank angle sensor for the SPFI computor. You'll have to change the drive gear on the disty to the one off the EA81 disty, and cut one of the mounting tabs off the disty housing for it to fit on the EA81. Rguyver is the one person on the board that I know has done this - look him up and email him. GD