GeneralDisorder

How is Ken's tank any different from mine? Cause I'm pretty sure it is the same tank, and in the same location.... Ken? Want to confim this? In fact - mine *should* be about 1/2" higher, since I'm running 28's.... GD

Hey Ken - what do you do to protect the fuel tank? GD

OOOHHH! That's different. Put the joint back into the control arm and thread the nut on to hold it. REMOVE the clamp bolt from the knuckle - don't just loosen it. Then use a prybar to get the knuckle off. GD

The fork style should do the job - that's how I've removed the half a dozen that I've had the pleasure of doing. Pound the fork onto it with a hammer, and it will pop out. GD

Yeah - that could be. What was the cost BTW? Just curious... GD

Actually - the skid plate is attached to the stock skid plate locations - it's made from (I think) 3/16" plate, and some sqaure tubing. The plan is to run more sqaure tubing behind it. We really didn't expect to bend it, but now that we know, we'll be makeing a few changes to the design. The plan on the diff bar is to run a strip of 1/4" plate perpendicular to the bar it'self - make it like an I-bean that you cut in half lengthwise... if you understand what I'm saying. That will make it strong in both directions - both horizontally, and vertically. We just have to bend a 1" wide peice of plate to the shape of the bar, and weld it right onto the side. I think others on the board have theirs done this way... McBrat if I recall has his "improved" - ever bent one Mick? GD

Yes - you run it in 4WD all the time. Another way to do it is to use an automatic tranny, and tweak the innards of the tranny to get 100% power to the rear. Mudrat did that with the beast - it had an EJ engine and auto tranny... GD

You need to lift it and make it ugly. No one in their right mind would mess with a lifted roo. GD

Bugaru and myself went out to scapoose again, and found some new trails. The place is littered with really awesome 4x'ing action. We got a little crazy, and both of us came out with some nice damage. I bent my mustache bar, and subsequently broke a rear axle because of it (popped it out of the cup). I dented my gas tank and bent my new front skid plate too - looks like it did it's job. Bugaru bent his front drivers side lower control are like a toothpick, but drove out on it anyway.... I'm sure pictures of that will follow shortly. I forgot the battery for my camera (of course), but luckily they had theirs, so action shots will be comming shortly when they post them, or I get the pics from them... At the end of the day, we both drove out. I did 70 MPH all the way home. Bugaru said his was a bit "sketchy" with the bent control arm, but it dove out anyway just like a subaru should! Looks like our list of improvements will be: Stronger lower control arms (weld some plate to em I should think). Improved mustache bars. Gas tank skid plate. GD

Dang - they still make those? I thought they were out of production.... GD

The gauge's and the sending units are both of questionable reliability. Check your temp with an aftermarket gauge, and see what you find. You may find that it's within normal parameters, and it's just the gauge thats whacked. Does the fan kick on when it's supposed to? You could get another fan if you have the electric already - or switch to two electric fans if you have the mechanical.... GD

So is your parking brake not working? The dust boot's do compress pretty far from what I have seen.... if it's working then I say let it be. If not, then I would say your caliper is worn out internally - there's a part inside called the "spindle" which acts in a similar fashing to a cam lobe in the engine - when you pull on the lever, the lobe pushes on the piston.... As to the brake pad replacement - what I do is remove the bleeder screw, and then screw the piston OUT a quarter to a half a turn. This helps to release the mechanism inside, and makes turning them back in a breeze. Then you just turn them all the way in, and re-insall with new pads - then bleed the front calipers... GD

Inner joints (which are Double Offset Joints, not technically CV's) are often to blame for harsh vibration, or strange noises that aren't "clicking". I had an inner joint so bad one time I thought the car was going to fall apart. Replaced axle - problem solved.... till the axle blew again because it was a crappy rebuild. I'm only buying new axles from now on.... GD

That I don't know - but I would try to find a 4.11 LSD from a legacy.... GD

That's just wrong. What kind of person would jack someone's floor matt? Must have been high on smack. It's not like they could sell em.... GD

Aren't Gen 1 Brat's 4.11? As mentioned here by Qman in fact: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12985&highlight=Brat+4.11 GD

I can tell you there is no difference in the jetting between EA81 and EA71 - because the part numbers of the kit from redline are the same. GD

So where is Fuji keeping all the EA81 race cars? I know that can't be all of their collection, cause the 1988 bonneville justy isn't present.... GD

Thanks for the good info Ed - I'll certainly look into that place in Tigard. Would like to see what they are all about... GD

I would so be there if you were on the left coast.... I do wish you luck tho. GD

"strike it with a mallet"??!? jeez - I done that, and didn't get any result. Guess I'll have to try a bigger mallet. GD

Right there on the page you linked it says: That indicates they don't use new parts.... which seems silly to me on a soob, where even new axles don't last that long. Maybe this works on other brands, but doesn't NEW axle parts sound better to you? GD

Hhhhmmm - ok, so at least I know I can send em down to Adam and have him take em in to the local "zone" and get my money back after I grenade them all over a local ORV park..... :lol: GD

I've been doing my homework on axles, and I've found that Autozone carries a line of new (as in BRAND NEW - not remaned) axles made by these guys: http://www.gck.com/ For $90 (no core charge since it's not a reman) you get a whole new axle. Apparently with a lifetime warrantee (limited - not applicable for off-roading..... but I'm not telling if you don't...) Now - I would like to hear any stories about this brand, or about Autozone's warrantee - do they honor it if they get back an axle that's muddy, and in 26 peices? etc, etc All the other companies I have looked at that rebuild axles are very careful to say in their "product descriptions" that they replace worn parts "if neccesary" and I don't particularly like that. While this approach may be fine for some parts, or for other brands of cars, my experience has been that skimping on even the slightest detail with axles will result in bad juju sooner rather than later for the most part.... Some searching around found these guys: http://www.raxles.com/home.aspx Who do reman axles, but they claim they use ONLY new outer joints. This certainly seems appealing, but with prices starting at $69, and shipping from florida, I can't see how I'm going to come in at less than a $90 *new* axle from Autozone..... Anyone got thoughts on this place? GD

Apparently the outer joints aren't serviceable - at least according to every manual I have read. I would like to know how they come apart... but even if I could get it apart I don't know where you would buy the parts to do a rebuild.... also, I can't imagine the rebuild parts being cheaper than a whole axle with all new parts in it anyway.. Pressed in sounds right - I tried beating on one, but couldn't make it budge. They are on there with something stronger than I can remove with my neanderthal techniques. Maybe someone else on the board knows the magic words to open one up.... anyone? GD