GeneralDisorder

*UPDATE - 2/25/04* *These mounts failed in testing due to melting from exhaust temperatures. Please go here for the latest on this topic* Well - I made another set of tranny mounts for my wagon, and installed them this morning - all I can say is WOW! It's like driving a whole different car - no more jerkiness when accelerating / decelerating - just pure smooth power. And also no vibration that I can find - they are working just as you would imagine brand new mounts should work. I would reccomend this mod to EVERYONE with an older soob, as every tranny mount I have seen has been shot. The driveability has improved dramatically. Link to my old post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/usmb/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10424&highlight=tranny+mounts I can make these if people want me to - but you can make some yourself just as easy, and pretty cheap. The tube of urethane is like $14. I'll charge $25 a pair + shipping if you guys want me to do some.... might seem expensive till you price new ones ($55 EACH), and it takes a couple hours of my time for each set - have to pull em from the JY, then clean, prep, and put the urethane in em... GD

Scooby - he's talking about EA81's - and yes, the cams are different. It does make sense in a way - the hydro lifters cushion the valve train, and thus the hydro lifter cam has to have a taller profile in order to get the same lift. You would also want the hydro lifter heads as they have bigger valves. And if your going to go to all the work of tearing the thing down to put in a cam, then the $80 that a custom delta cam costs is a better idea in my opinion than trying to locate a hydro lifter cam.... besides with a Delta cam you can USE the hydro lifters and avoid the pain of having to adjust your valves every 30k. GD

Actually - I didn't "challenge" anyone - I think he was just saying that I "took up the challenge" cause no one else would go out mudding with him around here.... lots of soobs, but not any that are lifted and want to go play..... sure - I'll be up for something come May. Don't think my goal will be to keep up with you tho.... hehe. If I can keep up with Ken, I'll have done OK in my book. Last time he led me straight into a lake.... speedbump - those rims are chevy 6-lug trailer rims that I re-drilled to 4 lug. If you do a search on the board for "6-lug" or "chevy rims" or "toyota rims" you should find several topics dealign with this mod. They are 15" trailer rims - US wheels 70 series. You can get em in white or black from Les Shwabb for about $25 to $28 each... GD

MUCH more difficult to fab in the hummer hubs. But yes - I know what you mean. The exra gear reduction would be sweet. Unfortunately, with that diff ratio, and the gear reduction hubs, the vehicle would become completely undriveable on the street if you managed to somehow get those in.... the front is the hard part - with the steering and all..... plus you would need the brakes too, since the outer hubs have no brakes. Gawd that really would be nasty. GD

There shouldn't be any play, no. Although I have heard of this from other board members, and some have run this way for quite some time.... to fix it involves dissasembly of the tranny - LOTS of work, and special tools are required for that. No one on this board to my knowledge has actaully dissasembled a 4 speed D/R and successfully fixed anything inside. I would love to try sometime, but after reading a few of the manuals I have here, I doubt I ever will unless I can aquire some special tools, and more Subaru literature on the matter. My sugestion to you is if you are worried about it, is to replace the transmission with another 4 speed, or put in a 5 speed, which are plentiful still..... GD

Hhhmmm - yeah - the input shaft thing..... ya know, I never noticed that. Are you talking about just the tip where it slides into the flywheel? Cause I swapped that 84 2WD tranny into the 84 DL wagon, which had an 82 D/R in it prior, and then put that 82 D/R in my 84 wagon with both a 2WD, and then now a 4WD clutch.... and everything has just fit together. Have I been way lucky or something? I did notice a bearing on a JY flywheel that had a larger opening that was too big for an 82 D/R shaft..... man I am totally confused now. GD

That is often indicative of the alternator voltage regulator going out.... high voltage can cause the dash lights to come on like that. I would have at it with a meter and check out you voltages. GD

Sounds like a bad alternator to me - the clue being all the idiot lights comming on - that is sometimes indicative of your voltage regulator inside the alternator going south. That's somewhere to start anyway - pull out a multimeter, and check your voltage when it acts up like this. GD

18" pipe wrench - *something* will give...... GD

I think it could be welded - no need to weld the liner up - just weld enough aluminium back onto the block to file it down flat and be able to seal. And if you cinch a used gasket down tight enough it will work fine. I've used many old head gaskets without incident. I've also had them blow - it just depends on what shape it's in. Same goes for any gasket - exhaust gaskets are a prime example - they need replacing if they are bad..... nothing bad can come from a used gasket that works - it's only bad if it doesn't work...... I'm just saying that *I* would TRY it. Not that it will work, or that it's something that everyone should consider. These engines are tough, and very rarely do my "backwoods" engineering attempts actually fail. I'm very often pleasently surprised in fact. GD

Yeah - go to a Pull-A-Part - there will be one around the yards, just keep checking. You are in the middle of Subaru land, and there's always 4 headlight EA81's around the yards. Talk to Qman - he probably knows where one in a yard might be found.... GD

JB is pretty strong - And that looks to be about your only option short of having someone who can weld aluminium put some metal on there, and having it milled flat.... that, or use this block as your new jack-stand..... I think personally I might actually try JB weld - what's the worst that could happen? Once it's fully cured it should withstand the heat - the pressure I don't know about. Might blow the gasket again. I would certainly use an old gasket if I tried this - would be a pitty to waste a new one on such an experiment. GD

The shorter gears make it more fun to drive - better acceleration in a stock roo. GD

Put the trans in gear, and put a socket on the front pulley so you can turn the crank as you install it. That should help you line up the shaft easier. Pulling the tranny is a pain unless you have a lift and a transmission jack. Figure on at least two people, and don't forget that you have to drain the tranny fluid or you will have a HUGE puddle when you remove the driveline. GD

Not as much work as you think actually - I will shorten the axles myself - not that hard, and I can do it so they won't break. Balancing is not an issue since axles are very close to the center of rotation, and thus the balance won't matter unless you are going VERY fast. I may get them balanced at a driveline shop anyway. The only change to the diff is to remove the inboard brake rotors - which I'll probably just plasma cut off so they aren't in my way. The rest is just fabbing a frame for the diff which already has to be done anyway even with Subaru diffs. I am quite aware of what's involved - remember, I'm a mechanic in the ARMY I'm not going to get pull-a-part stuff - I'll probably buy everything I need brand new. I'll check the military surplus channels that I know of but it will probably be ebay for the diffs and brand new axles.... GD

That is a GREAT price for a kit if you guys are putting them together! Should be MUCH more accurate, at least for EA81's. And being able to choose manual choke! WOW. I'll definately buy from you next time I need some parts. I'll help you out a bit right now - here's the official Weber installation instructions for people who need them. They are next to useless anyway..... http://www.ultimatevirgin.com/cropperr/ Click on "Weber Installation Instructions". I used my digital camera and took pictures of every page they gave me..... Oh - and the Redline adaptor for EA81's is FINE, but if you find another source for those too, please tell us, as the Redline one doesn't quite line up properly - although it doesn't leak coolant or anything like that. GD

Yep - 81/82 is what you want for off-road and big tires.... 83 and UP (to 89 here in the states) are all taller in 3rd and 4th GD

If / when I do a transfer case mod, I'm planning on getting ahold of some hummer differentials, and axles - shorten the axle, and weld the outer end of a subaru axle to it (just the hub interface part - not the CV joint). Mounting the diffs has to be fabbed in anyway, and the stock gear ratio of a hummer diff is 4.55:1, and you can get 4.88 gears if you want - also air lockers are redily availible. Nissan T-case, Hummer diffs and custom Hummer/Subaru axles.... should be wicked. No more broken diffs and the axles will be considerably more durable (they are faily durable on a Hummer, and with less wieght on a soob, they should be nearly indestructable). I'm sure the cost won't be cheap, but the lower gearing, and the durability should be outstanding. GD

Some questions: 1: will the kit come with either size of air filter depending on your application? (ie - 3" for lifted rigs, and 1-3/4" for non-lifted rigs...) 2: Is the adaptor plate the Redline weber one, or a different brand? 3: Is the linkage kit the one with the throttle cable holder that bolts onto the back two bolts of the carb? 4: Are you peiceing these together from individual packaged parts, or are these the official redline weber kit ?(K730, and K731 I think).... because it's actaully preferable if you peice them together since the kits come with no linkage stuff, and the wrong size air filter for non-lifted rigs..... 5: Can you get a decent price on the Redline snorkel adaptors? That is a GREAT price if you are building up these kits with the individual parts..... still good for the Redline kit, but I'll never buy one of those again.... Someone should sticky this..... GD

Yeah - and I learned that going off-roading when your missing an exhaust stud, and don't have any skid plate is just asking for problems Now I've got the backfires a bit cause I'm sucking air at the head. Looks like I'll be replacing those gaskets and maybe tapping a new stud in there..... GD

The hole is a different size, yes. I'm not sure how much or where you will need to cut - that also depends on if you are going to be using the stock D/R selector with something like Jerry's kit... When I swapped over to a 4 speed D/R from a 5 speed 2WD, I had to enlarge the hole towards the back to fit the D/R shifter shaft.... I also had to bolt in the D/R selector lever mount from a 4WD car, since that is not actually present in a non-D/R car.... GD

No issues with shifting here - 3" Mudrat lift. Wish I could make next weekend, but I went this weekend, and I'm going the weekend after next to Medford, so I can't swing that many in such a short period.... Lincoln locker for me soon too! GD

Brat, Hatch, and Coupe doors are all the same - glass is the only difference. GD

There is a sensor wire that tells the system when to stop the motor from running - it stops in the closed and in the open positions. I would check the connection at the plug, and if that doesn't do it, then maybe the soleniod that is responsible for turning the motor on and off with that signal.... if not there, then the motor itself might have bad contacts in the drive mechanism where the sensor contacts are located.... I've messed with a couple a little, but not in depth... I do have a wireing diagram around here somewhere of how the center lamp is supposed to be wired up from the factory. There's a bunch of wireing in there - mostly to handle that sensor signal, and some step-down resistors for the solenoids.... at least that's as much as I could make out of it from my cursory inspection of the system. GD

The ECVT has issues with the magnaized "dust" used inside it. What happens most of the time is the tranny gets overheated, and the "dust" loses it's magnetic properties - bit by bit, the tranny is rendered useless. An auxilery tranny cooler would be a good idea, but since the tranny uses no fluid, I'm not sure how you would accomplish that - maybe run some sort of coolant through a cooler attached to it.... Subaru still makes ECVT's - just not in any US models.... mostly for the japanese "mini" cars. GD