Ionstorm66

Put the middle of axle shaft in a vice. Twist both of the cvs and feel for wear. You should just barely feel any with a greased CV. One with a blow boot and low grease might have a degree or two. Any more than that, and it's suspect. Take the axle apart all the way, clean all the old grease and dirt out. Then put the axle shaft in a vice. Assemble the CV on it with no boot or grease, just a dry test fit. Give it a twist again and feel for slop. It should be like max 5 degrees in my opinion/exp. I have never had issues with pitted balls, cups or cages. The grease seems to even it out.

If the core is sloshing you have air, and if it wasn't sloshing before then you have a leak. A small leak to atmosphere won't cause overheating, I've had a slow leak for years in these cars and never had one overheat on the guages. Even when it was over a quart low. If the gauge is spiking then it is in air, then suddenly in coolant, so it's super low or bad HG. If its slowly rising then the car isn't keeping up with the engine, so it's either the fan, water pump, thermostat, or radiator. You need zero coolant pressure to keep it cool at idle, and if there is enough coolant to rear the sensor it isn't too low. Thus no way low coolant will cause that.

Its mounted to the coil bracket. Lot of times people loosen the bracket to remove/replace the coil, and leave it loose while testing. This will prevent the transistor from getting ground and working.

The nuts get rusted on, same with the washer and cone. Once you have them off once, clean and grease it all. Especially the spines! You should only be torquing to ~150 lbf-ft/200 nm, so a good 1/2 breaker bar will bust them off the second time. Also re-check the torque after a few miles, if they keep getting loose, it's likely the splines are dirty. I always remove them and re torque with torque wrench when I get home after a field repair.

21081 GA 170 is right rear for 1985-1990 XT Can't find a 21082, but 21081GA002 is Front right.

I keep the socket and my impact.

No spark I would check the distributor connector, and make sure the coil bracket has good ground and is tight to the body. The ignition transistor uses the bracket as ground.

Do you have power seatbelts? If so they backfeed power into the ignition circuit, atleast mine do. I kept getting my aftermarket radio turning on when I opened the doors. The door switch/seatbelt system was backfeeding power into the ignition power. I ended up adding a 10k pull down resistor to ground on the ignition circuit. Solved the issue. The ECU/radio requires a tiny amount of voltage to turn on, then uses power direct from the battery.

Check the voltage between the alternator output and the positive battery terminal. It should be 0. If there is any voltage you have an issue between the alternator and the battery. Likely the fusable links are old and corroded. Also while the engine is running, check voltage from the case of the alternator to the ground on the battery, this should be 0 too. If there is any voltage then you have a bad ground. Next check to see if the 2 pin connector at the alternator has 12v at the bigger wire with the engine running.

Check the voltage at the alternator and at the battery. Alternator could be going bad and have too much voltage, and dumping all that power into the battery.

So was driving the wagon the other day and lost my brake lights/dome lights, and the Brake Light, Brake Fluid and Charge warning lights came on dimly. The 15A fuse for brake/dome was blown. Replaced it, dome light worked, but blew as soon as I hit the brake pedal. Pulled all the bulbs, still blew. I unplugged the harness in the passenger rear that goes into the roof. Now I have working passenger and third/hatch brake lights with no fuse blow. Left with the 3 dim warning lights. Unplugged the 2 pin harness from the alternator, and the Brake/Brake Fluid lights went out and the Charge light was bright. Plugged it back in and all 3 are off. I'm out of 15A fuses so I haven't tried plugging in the brake harness to see if the other light will work without blowing fuse. Will get out the meter and test everything. Could the two be related? Is it possible the alternator harness was loose, and somehow power was back feeding from the brake light circuit? Or more likely I have a harness going bad somewhere?

I definitely just need more spring. I threw some used 4runner springs on. It had almost no travel, but no bottoming out! So I need something between the 4runner and Honda springs.

It's the opposite for the seals? The MT definitely has bearing reatainers that unscrew that hold the seals.

My front passenger carrier bearing is shot. There is a ton of slop with the stub shaft and cv axle. Drivers side is ok. I believe you it have to pull the trans apart to set the preload if I replace it right?

Do the rear bump stops just twist off on a ea82? I can feel a nut on the backside of the body mount, but don't want to go wrenching on them without knowing. I want to fab up mounts for some heavy duty ones.

Could be some gunk in front of the sensor, or the Mickey mouse seal on the oil pump. It dose have oil in it right?

It's amazing how much smoother going into 4wd is with the new bushings. I did my entire wagon with super pro bushes. Good stuff.

$1000 ECU is a long stretch from slapping on $100 worth of used ignition components.

Couple things to add. There are fusible links in the small black box next to the battery. These cna cause random electrical issues if the connections get dirty/loose. They are just thin bits of wire with spade connectors. You can replace them with modern sealed versions. Second electrical issue is the ground. Make sure the main ground from the battery to the starter is clean and tight. Next there is a main ground for the chassis on the intake, same thing clean and tight. Clean the idle air control valve and replace the PVC valve. PVC valve gets dirty/leaky and sucks oil into the intake. This will cause the IAC to stick and give you idle issues. A sticky IAC combined with a iffy coolant temp sensor is a hell of a thing to diagnose. Also plus one for rebooting stock axles. I've bought stock axles at junk yards with bad boots and bone dry rusty cvs. Clean them up and reboot/grease and they last thousands of miles.

Your struts should of come with the upper rubber bushings, washers, and a nut for each strut. One set of mine also came with a cover for the shaft, but they wouldn't work with the Loyale mounts.

The strut came with new bushings that i used. I drilled out the metal parts to fit the larger diameter strut rod. I also had the same issue with the spring compressor. After I did the first one I realized there was almost zero spring pressure because it was so worn out. So I just pointed the second one out into the grass, and zipped it off with the impact. It only slid like 6 inch's lol. I had had issues with the Toyota struts blowing out. The struts are longer and bottom out before the bump stop hits. I have tried stiffer springs, but haven't found anything that works perfect. I am running ProComp struts because they have the best warrenty.

I've got 60k miles on a no name $80 clutch kit from rockauto. Only installed it because I had a bad pilot bearing, and had it apart. That's more than I would say it owes me for $80.

I was told the metric belt thing by dealtech in Colorado a long time ago. Could have just been BS to say that they didn't fit from the get go. That car had ice cold AC until the day it was so rusted I was too scared to drive.

They had dealer fitted AC to keep the cars in a smaller tax bracket for import. It's very common on the base models. I've only seen it on DL FWDs.