Ionstorm66

Loyales are ea82s so it will fit :). You have to drill out the ea82 flywheel to bolt up to the EJ crank. You can get the measurements off the internet. I just took a junk EJ crank and cut the end off. Brought the end and the flywheel to a machine shop.

If you have a 5 speed d/r why even mess with the auto! All you have to do is get the flywheel drilled and get the adapter. Also helps with axles, with the auto you will need to make "custom" axles. NA EAs are 23 spline, and EJ is 25.

If you think the TPS is well made, take apart one of the door lock actuators. The are built like a swiss watch.

You can buy plunge shaft axles for EA82. They are $100 a pop, and don't take the same boots.

what boots did you use?

Check the wires on top of the injector, I had a bad one once, and it did the same thing. You only have to pull the top of the throttle body off to get to it, so get a gasket set.

Asking because I scored a set of 90k mile factory front axles with sealed boots! Look how nice they are inside.

Anyone tried the Toyota high angle cv boots on a EA82? I've used them on newer Subarus before, and you just cut the lip of the boot as a spacer to make them fit. Looking at the measurement it should work for EA82's as well. https://www.offroadsolutions.com/products/high-angle-inner-cv-boot/

They are ~26mm diameter, 32mm long, with flat faces that I can't measure because they are gone. 12mm bore. No luck finding them. I need to pull a spare frame and press out old bushings so I can get a better measurement.

That would require having the sub frame out long enough to let the window weld cure.

The factory ones have the mount for the strut lower. The rubber protrudes into the engine bay, but the actual mount point for the strut is lower. With the camber plates, the top of the strut bearing is above the top of the plate. With the rubber style it is below the plate.

They hold the rear subframe/crossmember to the car. Part #7 in the diagram. It's under the car, right at the start of the rear wheel arch, in front of where the trailing arm mounts.

Also I have had it hooning down dirt roads, in the sand, and in the mud. No issues with the front bouncing. There is still 2 inches of down travel from the standing ride height.

You can see in that picture the screws to set the camber are against the top of the tower. In order to get my camber set right, the screws would be under the top of the strut tower. Also these style tops lower the car over an inch.

Also I haven't noticed any issues with the heavier springs, the opposite. I don't have the winch on the front at the moment, but with all the spoob in the car it rides like a dream compared to before. It use to bottom out over every bump.

There is no lift kit in the car, just new struts and springs. Also the whiteline rubber camber plates have terrible reviews, so I went with the more race style aluminum ones. Issue is the adjustment bolts sit under the top of the strut tower, and I'm not going to chop the body to make them fit. I may have found a xt6 to swap to 5 lug if I can bring my self to trash all the parts and work I just threw at the car!

I mean I own 2 300K+ mile original drivetrain ea82s. I have also driven almost that many miles on my ea82s total. I have never had a Subaru axle fail from wear, only boots. If you keep grease in and water out the axles last forever. Aftermarket axles are built like trash, you can usally order 3 and build one good one. I've had stripped threads, bad splines, missing circlips, no grease, and bad clamps. I only buy them when I'm road tripping and tear a boot. I normally bring spares, but not always. Same goes for factory wheel bearings, never had a bad one that didn't have water in it. I re-seal and repack every 50k now.

I bought Subaru camber plates but they don't fit in the strut tower. There is no camber bolt that works on these. The crossmember bolt is too small for any off the shelf eccentric bolt, and the strut slip fits into the knuckle.

I need to figure you the camber, or I'll have to swap the old stuff back in. It already burnt the corners off both front tires in a week! Granted they weren't new tires.

Both front and rear are perfect now. Not to harsh, but no swaying or bottoming out on the street. I just need to fix my front camber. Don't know why the new struts are that much taller, but they are lol.

So with the new struts and springs my camber is way off but it drives and rides like a dream compared to what it used to be. The front struts being taller is causing the rear to be about an inch lower than the front now, I will have to fab up a small lift for the rear. I need to figure something out for the camber, maybe some adjustable strut tops? Or redrill the subframe.

Damn, think it was all rust? I haven't managed to bend anything control arm related, just over extend some clapped out bushings.

What was breaking in the rear end? The control arms?

Yeah I did the same HID mod that i saw on here. Split the housings, sanded off the steps on the inside. Polished both sides of the lense. Mounted the projector inside the housing with a running light and sealed it back up. Any type of HID or LED will do poorly in the stock hosing.

I did my front struts with the second gen KIA springs. Fit like a glove. I did notice my new struts are longer. The old ones are the original Subaru 4WD, and new ones are 4WD Gabriel