RustyBrat

re-worked the exhaust today, i must say its pretty ghetto oh well, works just as well as anything! my welds... well we arent going to talk about my welds, they are strong, just... ugly. anywaayyy built myself a Y pipe, and now im running 2 glasspacks inline, one after the other. looks much better now too, not hanging low like the other system did. i forgot to take a picture, but i cut and welded a couple pieces of pipe onto the end forming a 90 degree angle, so the exhaust actually exits right behind the drivers door on the outside. lots of trial and error, LOTS of welding, lots of "vocabulary", but in the end, i think it turned out good. making exhaust hangers tomorrow. oh and yes, the piece of flat stock is welded to the pipes, after i cut it all apart again, i bolted up the "headers" and clamped that piece of flatstock onto them both, then welded it there so that the bolt holes would for sure line up.

perhaps but honestly, ive never seen or heard of a set in "good" condition before being restored. regardless, they did turn out fantastic

nice job! im glad somebody could get some use out of them!

now thats just askin for trouble

Sweet brat! i hear that "custom rust" look is really big in Europe right now, specifically Sweden.

just checkin of course!

just remember, you cant run that led light bar on the road legally

i wish i had your courage and recklessness! im always too scared of getting a ticket!

Well... Cascade has probably 1500 people... Bout an hour and a half rom boise... Not sure if thats what you wanted to know...

Thats some mad clearance! just needs some swampers now...

let me take a look at how mine is done, i will get back to you

well then just get rid of the egr, honestly it has no benefits at all

ive seen this thing all over the internet! i would kill or die to have this! so jealous, but excited to see where you take it!

or, swap her over to a weber you'll be glad you did!

started hack-hack-hackin on the fenders today, the front ones are easy, but the rear is another story. that triple wall takes a LONG time to cut through. but its getting there! i just need to get a heavy sledge with a long handle and smash in the wheel wells. oh and also, today i discovered that i'm a giant dumbass when i swapped front axles, i didnt realize that on the passenger one that i took out, one of the wheel bearings had stayed on the axle. so now, as soon as i get it home, i need to pry that bearing off and re-install it. duhhrrrr OH! and one more little phenomenon, on that same axle that i forgot the bearing, the outer CV boot has twisted, which honestly makes no sense to me, because the joint has no slack in it, so it shouldnt be able to spin inside itself. im just going to straighten the boot, re-install the bearing, and play it by ear. also, i think my rear drivers side wheel bearing is shot, i actually think it has been since i got the brat. the rear drivers tire has some negative camber, and in fact actually sits back further in the wheel well than the passenger side one does. when i take the tire off and look at the axle, its actually angled back from the differential instead of straight. so... after i get the brakes worked out... i will be tackling that! GAH! the list just gets longer

well just keep an eye out for idaho wheeling posts this summer, dont wanna get yelled at for cluttering

hahahaha! i would love to see this on a subaru!

4play, all us idaho guys should get together

If it doesnt work the first time, break it until it does

well im just hoping i didnt forget to include a step! but good luck and keep us posted! if you run into troubles, we'll be here to help! i apologize in advance for any advice i give that doesnt work out, i dont always know what im talking about but i try

greetings fellow subaruist!

looks like it will work, it may not be the best quality one though. here my step by step process. jack up the front end of the car and set it on a block under the crossmember, not the suspension. put the transmission in gear and yank the parking brake. take a wheel off, whichever side's axle you are replacing, lets say drivers side. pull the cotter key out of the axle nut if it has one, then take the axle nut off using the crescent wrench, you may have to slide the cheater pipe onto the wrench to get more leverage, or hit the crescent wrench with a hefty hammer. after you have the axle nut off, take off both washers underneath it, the regular one and the cone one, do NOT lose these. pop the hood, and on the side of the transmission you will see where the axle connects. look for the roll pin going through, you may have to release the parking brake and pull it out of gear in order to turn the axle to see the roll pin. use your tool of choice to force that roll pin out, i use a headless screw driver and smack it through with a hammer. now that you have the roll pin out, pull the axle off the transmission spline, and push it back towards the firewall. put just your axle nut, not the washers, back onto the end of the axle and gently hit it with a hammer, with a piece of wood between the hammer and nut, until the axle pushes through the bearings. there! your axle is out! now to install the new one, you do the opposite of all that. the only thing that is different is sometimes a new axle is difficult to force through the bearings, i just force it through far enough to get a big flat washer and the axle nut on it, then tighten that down, pulling the axle through a little more. then you back off the nut a little, and use a pair of crow bars tow pry on the washer and pull the axle through. hopefully this makes sense

wait... but you dont need to mess with the ball joint at all?

its not hard at all! you just need a big crescent wrench, maybe a cheater pipe, a hammer, and something to push out the roll pins, i personally use a screwdriver with the head ground off

welcome! super clean ride! thumping is probably a bad axle by the way