mcbrat

did you jump on the front bumper a bit to settle the suspension after letting it down? mine always look a lot worse right after I let it down off the lift, but then it settles.

was a good time... it's so nice working on a rust free vehicle I think with any of the different strut extensions you still need to beat in the inner strut tower walls for clearance... the ones you have may even need less than the others... I think it would look best with the 215's on it but I do think you'll have to accept a little bit 'o trimming

from 1980 parts catalog DL style (not sure if what the DL radio box looks like) gray = 7660 84230 brown = 7660 84240 GL wagon slant styles blue = 7660 84640 brown = 7660 84620 gray = 766084630 flat styles from 84 parts catalog gray = 7660 80240 beige = 7660 80620 blue = 7660 80630

Carry a spare Disty. $25

Out.

I have the MSD-6A on my Red Brat. really made a difference for me.... I'm also running an Excel SuperCoil too, with a recurved disty...

I picked up a FW Minicars brochure. They were the makers of the Brat GoKarts. So not only did Subaru give them away as part of the prize drawings in '79 or so, but you could order them. New price in 1981 was $850 if buying 1. $725 for 2-5 units, and $625 if 6 or more ordered. top speed of 15 mph with 3 hp Briggs & Stratton engine.... available in the following colors: Orange Blue Red Yellow Silver Black White I've seen the Brats in Red, Blue, and Yellow so far. anybody have pics of any other color?

I'll take the goat in the background instead

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=hand&item_ID=14957&group_ID=2358&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog if you get my spare diff, you'll just need the diff cover gasket....

that's a 3.70 ratio. I have one with the same numbers on it sitting on my desk at work I've done new gaskets before when building the 3.90 LSD. But also have re-used when they came apart cleanly.

it's the ej20g IAC. it's been cleaned, and adjust a bit too... (much better idle after that...)

so, how would the cam differences between turbo and non affect engine run/performance.... more specifically I suppose, is how (if at all) would the cam angle sensor and it's signal be affected.... granted, it could just be the ECU, because the engine it's all "wrong" but I still have a "spot" where the engine gets a bit funky, and I either gotta give it more gas, or let off totally.... then I can go again. If I'm smoother on the throttle, it seems to do better than if I stomp it down... For reference, franken engine consists of: ej25 (NA) block ej25 DOHC heads ('96 with HLAs) ej25 flat top pistons ej22t crank/rods ej20g intake manifold, 440 injectors, vf8 turbo WRX tmic w/TurboXS bypass valve very short intake with cone filter. ej22t ECU

LIFT IT!

99 2.5RS

see my above post. that's the way to go. not stock, and minimal vac lines.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=22126646&postcount=9330

to get the most simplistic carb set-up, you'll want to get a carby intake manifold, and put on a weber 32/36 carb and adapter. many threads on here about putting on a Weber. you'll also need to get a carby: fuel pump distributor and be sure to remove the SPFI fuel pressure regulator you'll be bypassing the ecu totally, so there may be some wiring things to take care of.....

I've had my Red Brat (along with some other big lifted rigs) in a couple of the 4th of July parades in the past for my local 4WD club. This year I plan on wheeling over the 4th

he's in the process of putting a bigger lift and transfer case under it....... there's another guy in western Iowa that has a lifted ea81 wagon too... but he's not on this board.... and I think you meant this.....

I have a writeup somewhere using a dpdt relay and stock switch. it wasdone by another board member..... and yes the above diagram was one I did j/k

I updated my first post with final ratio (all 3.700) and what vehicles they ere found in for 1982. I could not find any Redline info in the FSM....

sign-up forms and details are up now for Sept. Event. http://www.ci4wi.org/Portal/index.php If you do a search in this forum, you'll see several threads on Castana. this place is awesome for lifted soobies. better if LSD or welded rear, but not required. this place is only open to the public a couple of times a year.

from the '82 FSM 1600 4 speed - STD Hatch, DL sedan, hardtop (specs are identical to the 5 speed (exc 5 - 0.725) 1 - 3.66 2 - 2.157 3 - 1.266 (drive) 4 - 0.885 rev - 4.1 1800 4 speed - DL wagon 1 - 3.307 2 - 1.950 3 - 1.344 (drive) 4 - 0.942 rev - 3.583 1800 5 speed (non-wagon) 1 - 3.307 2 - 1.950 3 - 1.266 (drive) 4 - 0.885 5 - 0.725 rev - 3.583 1800 5 speed (wagon) 1 - 3.307 2 - 1.950 3 - 1.344 (drive) 4 - 0.942 5 - 0.725 rev - 3.583 final ratio on all is 3.700