mcbrat

I made up a few. I really like the design this year I'm just about ready. new axle is in, welded rear in again, XT6 clutch set-up, replaced IGN lock cyl, remote oil sender, legacy drivers seat, bigger tires, MSD6A IGN, weber 155 mains, ... still have to install some fancy cupholders, and put the old skid plate back on.... and drill out my spare wheel....and maybe a battery isolator I bought 2 years ago

drove it around a few blocks and no leaks seen yet... but I have some other issue. I just put in a new GCK axle in the left front, and I've got a hard knock now there.....

actually, the notch/cutout is on the lower part of the bumper to allow for a place to mount the license plate. so if you just want a bumper, and aren't worrined about ground clearance in the rear, you could get a MY bumper from a 4wd wagon, and put the Brat Ends on it, and just mount the license plate to the lower section of bumper.... or mount the license plate to the tailgate if you have one....

yeah, the instructions for the swap were in the old TEch Articles section which no longer exists.... I did this on my old skiWagon.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21657

it needs to be a slim 1/4" drive style. most 3/8 drive socket won't fit inside the stub shaft

ahhh. from your description as a threaded rod, I assumed the head was gone... so you may not need a new bolt... this thread here hasa link to the correct tool you need... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=62912&highlight=stle100

that "threaded rod" is the E10 bolt that holds the stub in. sounds like the head is fully busted off the bolt. I've had this happen before. You'll just need to get a bolt from another diff. Open and clutch LSD (RX) all use the same bolts. the VLSD from the early turbo legs, uses a c-clip.

I needed to replace the clutch so I'm now running a XT6 pressure plate and my flywheel was turned to xt6 specs, with a new clutch disc. yeah, it's aluminum hardline (slightly flexible of course) the hardest part, was finding the proper fitting that would work with the stock sender. I found a couple, but this one worked the best.... I only ran it a little while last night in the garage, and no leaks.

the DL's came with a dummy light switch that goes into a hole in the block right to the left of the pump. the plug that's in mine, will not budge, otherwise, I'd be using it for a rollover protection switch for my fuel pump I took the plug out of the end of the pump, but decided not to do anything with it, as it wasn't "just a plug" as there was a spring inside....

well, I got my Brat running again tonight... I had the engine out to do a clutch job, and decided to put in my 155 mains. then along with that, I finally figured out my wiring to run my MSD6A multi-spark ignition... WOW! just running it in the garage, feels/sounds way better....

I needed a change after busting my oil sender off the last 2 times out. (modified Gen1 large skid plate, but with a 5" lift.... just flexible enough to hit it when I tried to move a rock with the skid plate....) This is what I came up with to still retain the stock sender and gauge... and it even works!!!

good thought. stickedy, you could swap the rear struts side to side, and see if the problem moves with it...

Ed Dahl does the gen1 brat stripes too, in single color. not sure which style again... dahled@aol.com

as long as the donor has the same type of tranny, it should be fine. there are aftermarket kits available.... I have a aftermarket cruise kit that came with a turbo brat I used to have, but it was never installed, and I sold the brat.... thinking about putting it on my 86 Brat.... or my hatch....

Here's most of the wheels that will fit your t-brat... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/wheels2/wheels.html if you do find a set of of the 15" pugs with recessed spokes, I offer a replacement decal set for them... there's another guy on the board who does OEM turbo brat horizon/targa stripe repros too. (DahlEd)

yeah, definitely not Morgan's old one... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=64051

is the center console switch too far to reach for the passenger the control unit on the last soob I parted was right with the Fuel pump control unit right above the hood release....

since there's no window frame on the door this is an option... take a long solid rod, and provided you can "pull" the top of the window out enough to get you hand and rod in, you can swin the rod and hit the lock to unlock it... at least that's how I did it in a Legacy at a junkyard....

the GL-10 refers to the top of the line trim model. in the ea81 series, it meant cloth door panels instead of vinyl. matching cloth seats. maybe the black-out option, where some of the normal chrome trim was blacked out... sunroof, alloys... like this one...

I have a aftermarket pump on my red brat, solely because it sat for maybe 13 years before I got it.... the pump I got is already at the correct pressure for the weber. I have used a higher pressure pump in the past with a seperate regulator (dial type, supposedly high failure rate). but there was no difference in performance... again, I only used it because of a dead stock pump....

it's not the pressure you need to change, it's the size of the jets. the "standard" weber set-up for soobs has 140 mains. I have run 155's before, and it worked well. Never came up short of fuel. too much fuel, and you'll have to rev too high to keep the engine going... (my little Holley 600 cfm experiment).

any more contestants?

are you just about ready? I just got my new xt6 pressure plate and flywheel turned to xt6 specs, and new clutch disc. hopefully will get it in this weekend, along with my welded diff again....

thanks Jim. I copied this to the USRM....

http://www.eshopafrica.com/gallery/coffins/coffingallery.html