nipper

Check out this engine completely. Remove timing covers, make sure all the pistons are there (no joke). That is juts too good a price. DO a leakdown test if you can.

The Convertable?

I curse this belt.

I think ( I might be wrong ) DOHC use the MAF sensor for this duty. Turbos have them, not too sure about SOHC engines, I think it depends upon the year. Not all cars have IAT sensors. You THINK you saw it, I think you may have not.

Well i did not want to suggest using a carbon based fuel source for anything drastic other then heating the wires. Goodness knows how those things can easily get out of control

the yellow harness and plugs are the air bag wires. If it is in your way unplug it. if in doubt unplug it. The only nthing I would do because I am paranoid is cover the connector with electrical tape.

For giggles... have an extra ECU around?

4. Main Harness A: REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION 1) Turn ignition switch off. 2) Disconnect ground cable from battery and wait for at least 20 seconds before starting work. i can meail you the SRS section. This is for a 1998 but they are all the same I checked

Power Steering Rack

Electricity is an evil and confusing God ... it has to be spun in the car to really check it and read the AC pulse. Glad it is fixed.

You don't know what else is powered when the radio light is on. There could be a few lights that are very dim. Unplug the radio for a week, live with a ipod, and see what happens. Another possability is a crap Alt. there are quite a fe really poor rebuilds (read China again or Mexico) and that may have a short in it. Can you fully charge the battery, disconect the Alt at the Alt and let it sit for a week to see what happens? After that we will suggest the next step.

My better LED christmas lights sometimes flicker too. I wonder if they are seeing the cycles in the electrical generation.

a 2nd for Rock Auto

Yes. The new ones used LED's but these are just normal everyday edison based lightbulbs

We all missed the obvious place to check first, the exhaust hangers. Blu bangs alot, but due to the lift and the trailer hitch, I had to loose an exhaust hanger to clear everything. And don't rule out the axles yet. How is the idle is it smooth?

Do not get me wrong, but when you have a major leak or problem, there is NOTHING wrong with trying a single dose of additive to try to fix it or at least slow it down untill it can be fixed. I will ALWAYS stand by that rule as it is a solid suggestion.

OE thermostat ONLY. Cheap aftermarket ones are too small for flow and dont have the jiggle valve which lets air through or any foam/bubbles from turbulance.

The additive is just stop leak. I would use Barrs. ONLY use one bottle at a time! Two bottles might (and has to some people) clog the radiator (especially in the future when exposed to air - thats how it works). it can also clog the heater core.

Is this a manual? Either way get a second opinion. A diff doesnt knock it usually wines, but if the output shaft is bad it may knock. Other possabilites tranny mount or driveshaft. The car has the right mileag for the mount, but low for the driveshaft. Look at the dipstick to see if there is material on it.

From Subaru Thank you for contacting Subaru of America, Inc. We appreciate your interest in this publication. I am in the midst of trying to obtain some information for you. Are you aware of our Technical Website? As I am typing my response to you, I was thinking maybe it is out there? Regardless, as soon as I hear back, I will let you know. The offices are closed on Friday so if I don't hear back from my contact person by tomorrow, I hope you have a Happy New Year! : ) Sincerely, Kelly Shinault Subaru of America, Inc.

Water pump, idlers tensioners and cam seals. anaerobic sealer = "The Right Stuff" made by Permatex; Loctite 518 to name two. It is commonly called gasket maker and it will be a thick red paste. You can also buy it from EVINRUDE as GEL SEAL as it is also used for sealing engine case halves in outboard motors. It is a sealer basically used where tolerances are critical and a silicone can't be used due to torsional flexing of the parts.

This may be like replacing the engine because of a fouled plug. how many miles? When does the knock happen? Is it a knock or a bang?

Nevermind ... in the process of posting someone answered my point

The long heading is if someone does a search on this they can find it. The plate itself can get hardspots and no one machines them. Those little fingers are called a bleville spring and do get exposed to heat. They actually apply more force halfway through the disc's life. After that point they loose the clamping force. Towards the end of the discs life they will start to slip (before you can tell) and heat up. When you can finally tell they get rather hot. They also need to be a matched set as they are balanced together. You can just replace the disc if there is very little mileage on it (ie a failed oil seal). Clutch Assembly 101. http://books.google.com/books?id=U4TBoJB2zgsC&pg=PA905&lpg=PA905&dq=belleville+spring+pressure+plate&source=bl&ots=MUSQVrNIqh&sig=US2FieCeupO1W9tM-8RcRGFcn3o&hl=en&ei=jTQaTYA2goLyBt30zKQD&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=9&ved=0CFEQ6AEwCA#v=onepage&q=belleville%20spring%20pressure%20plate&f=false Start at page 900 .