nipper

Okies then lets check the draw when starting and Alt output.

You did not say you checked it the first time. You also need to know the voltage drop at that cold start in the morning. How old is the battery. See if you can borrow and old silver load tester, as they are the best. Test the battery cold first thing in the morning. If that all pases we will go from there. Post the results.

You need the tranny code too, as this can be many things. What is common to the ECU and TCU is the MAP sensor, RPM, and I think the speed sensor.

I would check the alt output at 1800 RPM with EVERYTHING on. The light comes on if the voltage is low, which is what I suspect may be the issue here. nipper

Ebay has Lego racks for 100.00 with shipping charges. Blu needs a rack as it leaks and feels like mud on a cold morning. My shop said it is almost 3 hrs to replace book time, but they charge actual time, whichever is less. So in reality how much time does it take. Winter is here so I can not do it myself and I do not know if it will last the winter.

you can buy the pins if they are scored. A little force is needed cometimes using a c clamp of a prybar of some kind. Use your imagination to get it out. Clean them with very fine sand paper or steel wool. I actuallu use a dremle tool. You need to clean the parts thet the pin slides in and out of too. When you think you have them clean clean them some more. Use brake grease.

Dash lights - You let the magic smoke out of the light controller. This controls the dash lights. It looks like a relay on the drivers side kick panel. Why didn't you/they use a wiring adapter, it avoids this. That is not a cheap little black box. Find it here or in a scrap yard. You need to rent a code reader, other wise we are just guessing blindly. nipper

Check to see if there is power getting to the switch. I think this has a blower relay, I am not sure.

Lets Review If it gets louder with speed it may be the diff. Rotate the tires one by one and use a stethascope(find a spot maybe the swing-arm or the rear of the bearing ub) and listen rear bearings can make noise and still feel "tight".

WOWZERS! Alternator, Alternator Impreza List Price : $691.04 Your Price : $580.48 Quantity: Alternator, Bearings FRONT, Impreza List Price : $23.60 Your Price : $16.99 Quantity: Alternator, Bearings REAR, Impreza List Price : $38.92 Your Price : $28.02 Quantity: Alternator, Brushes Impreza List Price : $4.82 Your Price : $3.47 Quantity: Alternator, Rectifier Impreza List Price : $148.22 Your Price : $106.72 Quantity: Alternator, Rotor Impreza List Price : $302.92 Your Price : $218.10 Quantity: Alternator, Stator Impreza List Price : $207.58 Your Price : $149.46 Quantity: Alternator, Voltage regulator Impreza List Price : $198.65 Your Price : $143.03 I will never understand why these alts are so expensive! Blus (1998 Outback) was 99.00 from subaru! rebuild it!

If it gets louder with speed it may be the diff. Rotate the tires one by one and use a stethascope(find a spot maybe the swing-arm or the rear of the bearing ub) and listen rear bearings can make noise and still feel "tight". Another possability are cupped tires.

Original Alt?

You just killed your own argument. His windsheild (which is what we are talking about here) is in his line of view, and it is HUGE. State doesnt calibrate feed or pay for certifiaction, that is on the back of the garage that does the inspection (unless it is a state inspector) and still someone pays for that. Being an inspector, sorry, car runs like crap it does not pass. Pre OBDII some people cheat, but if any car came in running like crap to me I would fail it as it is my rump roast on the line (When I did inspect). I never knew when it is a spot check from DMV.

Who made this so called direct fit part. I purchased "direct fit" exhaust system for my Justy, and the only thing that was right was the muffler.

The parts are incredibly expensive, it makes a rebuilt from Subaru lok like a steal. I wouldnt worry about noises when the car is cold (and the air temp is cold) as long as they go away once the car warms up. Now if it was doing it at 40 degrees or more then I would wonder about it. How many miles and what year is the car (that should always be given)

Replace the PCV valve, don't clean it as that is not much of a test anymore. Check the PCV hoses. Do a full tuneup, as the loss of power at speed can be bad wires (use OE wires). The wires can fail with heat. Also this is a classic coil failure (weak spark when hot) but lets do a tuneup first.

And dont forget the ever popular seperation plate.

I stongly disagree on all levels. A car with a rusted out subframe is dangerous, as well as bad front end parts and bad brakes. Most drivers do not notice these issues and drive the cars till things brake. Having been hit by someone who lost thier brakes in a non inspection state, I can personally attest that they are needed. And look at his crack, it is huge and dangerous. Yes it IS a double laminate, but that crack compromises the strength of the glass. It is really dnagerous to say a year of saftey is not worth the 40 bucks. The excuse of that they catch it when the car is in the shop for maintanence doesnt work either as many people use an oil change place that does not inspect the front end or brakes. Also quite a few people who do thier own oil changes never bother to inspect those parts. Now with cars that can go a year without an oil change, it is much more important to have inspections.

That crack is HUGE. I am sorry but that is a hard failure and anyone who thinks that is NOT within the drivers line of site is blind. Any crack that big anywhere in the windshield is a failure and unsafe. The windshield works with the airbags to hepl protect passengers in a crash. A HUGE crack like that compromise the strength of the windshield. In some cars the windshield is a structural part of the car too. That is not a small crack or an unreasonable failure in any stretch of the imagination. That is also a violation where you could get a ticket for failed equipment. In ten days your temp inspection sticker expires and it would be the same as driving around with an uninspected car. nipper

Clean your pullies.

No matter what pulling an engine can be messey, and this is a worse case scenario. Is the engine totally frozen or does it turn then a thunk (hollow feeling)? Is it a hard thunk or a soft thunk.

It can't hurt, but do it the easy way. With a turkey baster empty the pump. refill with fresh fluid. and your done. If you really want to be complete, do this like a tranny flush. Drain-fill-start then turn lock to lock then repeat four times (I think, usually the same amount as the capacity as it does not have to be 100%). PS fluid has a very easy life so no need to get 100%

Hrmmmm Check the condition of the oil. Is there a "thunk" when you try to move the engine by hand, or can you feela thunk? It is odd to have no warning signs, but I have seen quite a few mechanical misdeads due to inattention or the ol "Oh its been making that noise for months, since it did not get worse I did not think it was important" Or that hollow knock in the engine that seems to come and go (I myself got bit in the arse by that one). Look up Torque Converter here you may find out how to do it. Someone will chime in. The TQ is bolted to the flex plate, but basically just sits on the nose/input shaft of the transmission. You see lots of engines with the TC still connetced to them in junkyards. I just don't know off hand if this would be better done on the car or on the floor. I would think on the car as more leverage.

Replace the belt as it may be glazed. Also you need to check the belt with the engine stone cold as they belt expands as it gets warmer.

http://www.aircarecolorado.com/im240tst.htm The car must be tested on an adjustable AWD dyno OR put in FWD. All-Wheel Drive/Traction Control Vehicles Vehicles that are full-time four wheel drive, all-wheel drive or traction control are tested using specially-designed dynamometers -- one set for the front wheels and an adjustable set (adjusted based on length of wheel base) under the rear wheels. The far All-Wheel Drive/Traction Control Vehicles Vehicles that are full-time four wheel drive, all-wheel drive or traction control are tested using specially-designed dynamometers -- one set for the front wheels and an adjustable set (adjusted based on length of wheel base) under the rear wheels. The far right lane of every test station contains two sets of dynamometers and four-wheel drive vehicles are tested in this lane. Vehicles that can be shifted from four-wheel drive to two-wheel drive must be tested in two-wheel drive rather than using the four-wheel dynamometers. All-Wheel Drive/Traction Control Vehicles Vehicles that are full-time four wheel drive, all-wheel drive or traction control are tested using specially-designed dynamometers -- one set for the front wheels and an adjustable set (adjusted based on length of wheel base) under the rear wheels. The far right lane of every test station contains two sets of dynamometers and four-wheel drive vehicles are tested in this lane. Vehicles that can be shifted from four-wheel drive to two-wheel drive must be tested in two-wheel drive rather than using the four-wheel dynamometers. right lane of every test station contains two sets of dynamometers and four-wheel drive vehicles are tested in this lane. Vehicles that can be shifted from four-wheel drive to two-wheel drive must be tested in two-wheel drive rather than using the four-wheel dynamometers. Tirerack lists the tire size as either a 14 or 15 inch tire. Anything below 17 is NOT supposed to be on the dyno. Tires that are smaller than 17 inches or larger than 34 inches cannot be safely tested on the dynamometer. Only vehicles with manufacturer-equipped undersized or oversized tires that do not fit safely on the dynamometer will be authorized by the state to undergo an idle test instead of a dynamometer test. Vehicles with tires larger or smaller than original equipment that do not fit safely on the dynamometer must be returned to stock condition for testing. Vehicles with non-original undersized or oversized tires will not receive authorization from the state for an idle test. If this applies to you it should not have been on the Dyno. The light should reset after the next drive if the issue went away. The TCU will stop the AWD at about 50 mph if it senses a problem, What they did was DANGEROUS and should be reported to whatever agency controls the inspection station. Write doiwn what they did, print out a copy of the link, and hold onto it if the problem does not clear up. Without seeing the car I think they damaged it. PS, in New york any AWD vehical are exempt from the dyno tests.