nipper

Thats a first. It is listed everywhere, from FSM to parts catalogs as a seperator plate. http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-seperator-plate-explained/

Ok you may have a small shop, but there is one tool that everyone seems to forget about. The vacume gauge. It can give you so much information. http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/vac/uum.htm Lets give that a check.

On a older used car my rule of thumb is in the first year expect to put at least 50% of the purchase price back into it, so thats about right. Where is the driveshaft coming from?

As long as the system does not have a hole in it, a quick replacement of a bad valve o ring etc won't require any parts besides what is leaking. And if you are putting a gauge on it it should be a gauge set, even if you use just one gauge.

Sometimes Brute force is called for as these pipes can be a real pain in the arse no matter how good you are. Remeber the basics of mechanics... Vice Grips Torch (heat source) Big Hammer Duct tape The first two should be able to help you take things apart.

What is this speel-ing U speek of?

Illanrob, i was referring to the original post, not yours. If iI was referring to yours I would have quoted it . You are also OBDI not OBDII which is a different beast. Original post from Axgutt I got a CEL on my 95 Legacy Wagon (2.2, MT), and I'm having trouble resetting the computer (which is the first thing I usually try when I get a CEL). I disconnected the negative terminal before heading out of town for a couple of days, and reconnected it when I got back. Started it up without touching the gas, expecting it to do that thing where the RPMs go up and down for a little bit, but it just started idling normally (with CEL on). It seems like sometimes I can reset it by disconnecting the battery, and sometimes not. Is there some specific sequence I should be following? And we are still waiting for the trouble code.

Check mounts and anything else you touched. Maybe get the car up in the air (do NOT get under it), all four wheels and see if you can hear it better that way

Chevy has imported parts, the same way subaru has american parts. Yes do use him. He will be able to find the leak quickly and easily then fully recharge everything for you.

Except he is not mechanically inclined, personally i would rather he price it and get it done by someone.

And best to do that with 3 fill-ups.

Is it a pop, a thud, or a knock. When you rev the engine is it there? Does it diminsh with each upshift? Does it exist when floored in top gear? I am thinking a tranny mount

Time for the rubber hose and a friend. Put the rubber hose to the bell housing and the other to year ear. Have the friend operate the clutch and see if that is where (I suspect) the noise is coming from.

SHift linkage, hopefully outside the tranny and not a broken fork inside the tranny. I bet it is in 1st and third

No. open the hood you can see everything. If you question if the engine has to be removed to fix AC in a subaru, you should not mess with the system. About 100-150 bucks it will be fixed.

Why hasn't the trouble code been read or did i miss that part? You are blaming the ECU and the car when it is doing exactly what it is supposed to do.

Easy. Check the linkage. I was driving in first gear at about 3000 rpm on a bumpy dirt road. No prior warning or noise. I was going about 15 miles an hour and all a sudden the engine revved up as if I was down shifting from a high speed to first gear. I immediately pushed in on the clutch and at the same time the wheels locked up and the car came to a sliding stop. If the car locks up with the clutch in you have 2 gears engaged at the same time. This will always lock up everything. the biggest clue is the mileage (worn linkage) and bumpy road.

It is not a PITA, it was just done wrong. Every car this is valid for EVERY car made. Fill radiator SLOWLY. on level ground Start car up with cap off. Wait for T-stat to open (surge at radiator neck) Once that goes away, top off SLOWLY Replace cap Fill the overflow tank. Go for a short drive Let car cool down Repeat above. If you have to do it more then once something is up. BTW get a new cap. People and shops don't do this right as it takes time or they never learned how.

Leaking grease - thumping, release. Replace the cv joint. Lets get that out of the equation and look at the transmission mount and the uni joints in the driveshaft. You are at the right mileage for a driveshaft to start getting difficult.

There is a leaky O-ring. Just recharging it will be throwing money away. Since it was low to begin with I can not fault the shop.

The rear o2 sensor tells if the cat is working. The front o2 is for the ecu. First find a measured mile on the highway (signs on the side of the road are measured miles. Match that to your trip odometer. - A bad o2 sensor will give poor gas milage. - A sticking or bad Idle Control Valve (which may not throw a code) will cause bad gas mileage. - The higher thrust it takes to launch the car (yes it is measured to become thrust) will reduce gas mileage. - Improper tire pressure - The beginings of torque bind - Seized brake caliper - Stuck parking brake - Driving over 70mph, as that seems to be the tipping point from 28-29 to 25-26 or lower the faster you go. - Heavy right foot. Slow acceleration and not running out gears will help. - Timing belt acting wierd. After sitting for 2 years i would replace it and all associated parts. - A non OE thermostat. If you are starting out at 23-25 then add these it will make it lower. Add any of these together your mileage wil get dramatically lower.

All transmission shops are EVIL! I do not care if your father, or Priest (uses it to suppliment his income), or beloved Grandmother turn people evil. As soon as they have the first cup of coffee they start to go towards the dark side. The AWD unit on the tranny could have been replaced all by itself. I have my doubts on the pinion ring. A used tranny would have worked just as well, as that could not have been cheap. If they can not diagnose a wheel bearing noise that is even worse. Wheel bearing. You do know that all four tires must match, be properly inflated, and have equal wear to keep from blowing up the AWD unit.

What he said. The only worrying thing I see here is not knowing what is leaking. the fastest way to kill and engine is run low on oil

IAC valve will also make the car idle go up and down, affect gas mileage,and may idle a little rough.

Grammer please. How many miles and what year is it. Any Check Engine Light on. How much tranny fluid do you loose. Are you sure it is tranny fluid?