nipper

There is the ol rubber hose method. use a hose as a stethascope and listen to all four injectors. if they all sound the same we need to chase this down some more. Check the grounds, clean them, maybe run a new one from the block to the body. Check the MAF sensor as may also cause a miss. Are you using the same coil pack?

Engine Temp Sensor. It can not tell how cold the engine is so it is flooding the engine. This will not throw a code.

Slight correction. This is telling you there was an electrical fault in the transmission in the last operation of the car. 98% of the time it is the Duty C solenoid. Alos look up Torque bind and enjoy lots of reading

Did you ever replace the O2 sensor or check for a clogged cat converter? What parts did you swap over from the other engine. The miss is always on #3? Did you use new OE wires? Are you sure this is an ignition miss and not a fuel injector miss?

yes it sounds like a mismatched diff. It is easy to tell on a lift. Start the on the lift raised only high enough to get the tires off the ground. Mark the other 2 wheels with chaulk in matching spots. Since these are open diffs have 2 people san use 2x4's to stop the ine side from spinning. On the side with the marks the tires should stay in synch. Since Autos transfer a minimum of 10% of power to the rear, they will spin.

Swap washers see if it pumps. Just because the motor spins it may have enough omph to do anything.

The rear has its own pump in front tank. the pump died. you can use a universal pump kit. You may think about replacing the front pump too, as I had them quit 1 month apart.

OK im perplexed.

A cracked knock sensor may not throw a code. Physically inspect it. I would prefer to use the thing sticking out of the flor to do the same thing I do that lots as it is, and will drive the car manually on occasion.

Thats typical Japanese 4 cyl cruise conrol calibration. If you are in a loit of rolling hills use Drive 3, it will really make the car much happier.You just shut it off and drive uphill, it is not a bug as much as a silly design feature. Do the vac gauge like I suggested and post the results here. There is no such thing as too much data for those of us who do not have the car infront of us. If your code reader wil do it can you give us the % of load at idle, 30mph and 60 mph on level ground (or the avg load). Hrmm the decelration only happening above 40, i think we may have a clue. It should happen all the way down to where the car will max out if allowed to creep at idle. Some cars will get up to 15mph due to tranny calibration. How is your wheel alignment? Have you tried better fuel? Forgive me if I am repeating myself as this thread has gotten long, but was the knock sensor replaced. Is the egr functioning. Do you have a scangauge so that you can read these things on the go and get a real MPG reading? Is your cat clogged? I sort of wish we had data and not information on what you checked as that would give us more information.

It's back with the CVT and stick.

I could have gotten you a source for one almost 1/2 that price. http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/?gclid=CJWX9bujtqECFcRM5QodjSGF_g

www.cars101.com The hill holdr on your car is that stick between the seats below the shifter

Thats a first. It is listed everywhere, from FSM to parts catalogs as a seperator plate. http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-seperator-plate-explained/

Ok you may have a small shop, but there is one tool that everyone seems to forget about. The vacume gauge. It can give you so much information. http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/vac/uum.htm Lets give that a check.

On a older used car my rule of thumb is in the first year expect to put at least 50% of the purchase price back into it, so thats about right. Where is the driveshaft coming from?

As long as the system does not have a hole in it, a quick replacement of a bad valve o ring etc won't require any parts besides what is leaking. And if you are putting a gauge on it it should be a gauge set, even if you use just one gauge.

Sometimes Brute force is called for as these pipes can be a real pain in the arse no matter how good you are. Remeber the basics of mechanics... Vice Grips Torch (heat source) Big Hammer Duct tape The first two should be able to help you take things apart.

What is this speel-ing U speek of?

Illanrob, i was referring to the original post, not yours. If iI was referring to yours I would have quoted it . You are also OBDI not OBDII which is a different beast. Original post from Axgutt I got a CEL on my 95 Legacy Wagon (2.2, MT), and I'm having trouble resetting the computer (which is the first thing I usually try when I get a CEL). I disconnected the negative terminal before heading out of town for a couple of days, and reconnected it when I got back. Started it up without touching the gas, expecting it to do that thing where the RPMs go up and down for a little bit, but it just started idling normally (with CEL on). It seems like sometimes I can reset it by disconnecting the battery, and sometimes not. Is there some specific sequence I should be following? And we are still waiting for the trouble code.

Check mounts and anything else you touched. Maybe get the car up in the air (do NOT get under it), all four wheels and see if you can hear it better that way

Chevy has imported parts, the same way subaru has american parts. Yes do use him. He will be able to find the leak quickly and easily then fully recharge everything for you.

Except he is not mechanically inclined, personally i would rather he price it and get it done by someone.

And best to do that with 3 fill-ups.

Is it a pop, a thud, or a knock. When you rev the engine is it there? Does it diminsh with each upshift? Does it exist when floored in top gear? I am thinking a tranny mount