nipper

If there is oil on the sparkplug boots, this may make it come and go too. The valve cover buckets are leaking and will cause the voltage leak to come and go in the right conditions.

Dash gauges have been made less sensitve then when electric cooling fans first came out. I had a datsun and a honda where you could watch the temp gaughe go up and down with the fans. People thought there was something wrong and driving dealers nuts ( iworked for a VW dealer at the time and got tired of telling owners them it was normal) OE (all of them) made the "normal" less senative to 175-215 swings (normal range). to save time and costs on customers complaining. Below t and above those temps they are close enough for the driver (if they even look at the dash) to let them know something is wrong.

The original subaru CVT was killed by drivers who drove like... drivers. They do not fully stop when chaining direction, that tore up the drums. They also never used Ds for heavy traffic or hills that burned out the electric clutches. As long as there is lubricant or some sort of lubricating properties ( the metal gears may look dry but they have properties in the metal that allow them to operate without lube in some applications) they will be fine. You can never design for the idiots. You design for the majority of the end useres, not the dummies (to which most are when it comes to cars). The CVT is an ancient technology. Subaru has had them since the 60's just not here. They have extensive knowledge on how it works. one day they just didnt decide to poop one out. The only issue subaru has had so far with them is that they had torecalibrate the reverse gear "ratio" as it was too steep and in someconditions the car would not move uphill backwards. I have heard of only one being replaced due to a failure, and that is about par for any new car where 10.000's are made. People have been getting way over the rated highway MPG with them, and are very happy with them. There is always the ones who complain about automatics. There are quite a few CVTs that work like sooby, and others that use cones. They are hitting over 100K now with no issues.

Say, how old is your thermostat? The gauge may look Ok but the car can be running cool.

Nathan all I want is SOMEBODY to go out and try the same thing to see if it was my imagination. Aparently this request may be impossible. As far as the Justy saftey Issue, I was pointing out that subaru has been building safe cars (using the smallest as a baseline) for quite sometime.

Well it is a pretty well known thing that it is much better to start off and stop in 2nd gear in very slick conditions as it reduces weell spin and lockup. Yes I could look up the diagram but not in the mood and it is in the car with a blizzard outside. @nd gaer (well any gear in a 4eat) changes the dynamics of the awd, Engine braking does assist in service brakes. The ABS does use other inputs other then the wheel speed sensor and brake pedal.

115 K That is just a child! With care the drivetrain major parts the sky can be the limit as far as life of the drivetrain

Sooys are always top rated for saftey. Heck my 1989 Justy passed those crashtests with flying colors!

Crankcase sensor?

170-180 in BITTER cold as the heater core is enough to cool the engine (10 degrees) Normally 180-210. I have had it as high as 218 which is fine, at 100 degrees outside and AC on in traffic. Transmission temp is normally 100 degrees over ambiant temp.

Maual is one since it has a more basic AWD system. Did I miss it being a manual?

Nope. Get an original key made by a dealer using the Vin number. Cops can wear faster then OE.

If you have a head wind it will knock it down as Outbacks/Leggy are not all that aerodynaic. Last time for a tuneup?

I just accidently did an experiment that I need someone else to try (in late 90's soobys) (and sorry but people that complain about it I personally think are overdriving conditions) In really bad conditions I use D2 to strat and stop. With enough distance D2 will reasonably get you down to 5mph. I treid some hard stops from 25 mph on the same section of road. In D or D1 the abs (STANDING on the brake pedal) did its thing working hard. I tried it with a reasonable stop for the conditions and it was active but only at the very end of the stop. In D2 (which of course everone uses in bad weather for better starts without wheel spin and better braking and AWd control ) It really seemed to calm down the ABS action. The wheels actually locked up a few times (conditions frozen snow over 2" of powder). Also the ABS did not kick in for a reasonable stop. Standing on the brake pedal it seemed to cycle less with a shorter stop. Can someone try this w/o traction control? I want to see if I discovered something.

Blown spedos are 1999 so no they shouldn't for this car. You lost both VSS sensors. I would chek the cables. Usually when one dies the other takes over running the spedo, just you loose AWD.

Manually move the doors and see what happens. I dont know which sooby you have I could make other suggestion

25 is not too bad in winter. Blu gets between 16 in winter and 25- 26 highway. Normally it is 19-21 and 27-30

What no antlers?

Touching http://video.nytimes.com/video/2010/12/24/nyregion/1248069482199/miracle-on-22nd-street.html

:lol:

Those are the pins that the calipers slide on. The calipers are basically giant clamps. Rotors warp either because of hard spots in mfg, sudden cooling after being EXTREEMLY hot (like a dragging caliper), or a dragging caliper. You may not notice a dragging caliper when you change the pads. Always clean and lubricate the sliders at every pad change. Use brake grease, it comes with the better pads. Dragging caliper can heat the rotor too much.

The VSS the car can not tell how fast it is going so it may be going into open loop mode and that is generally inneffecient. This mode uses pre-programmed parimieters instead closed loop which constantly adjusts the F/A ratio. It sounds like the other Vss sensor may have issues too. YOu will not have AWD at high speeds since the AWD can not tell the speed differential between front and rear of the car when the CEL is on.

Make that the 1st project of that list. You are at where some idlers may start failing.

Almost all engine now are interference, especially with multi-valves. They have been interference since the DOHC came out, and i think the 2.2 (just an fyi) since 97.

Thats the way we roll!