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Everything posted by nipper
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Vibration in drive Axle replacement Axle Replacement Joint (that was all done for the search) How in heck can it be related to brakes when stoped? If you do not want to listen to us, and ignore all the threads on this subject, feel free to throw money at your brakes. Check the tronsmission mounts. How old is that replacement axle and where did it come from. Since you have not used the search, I will explain it one more time (I wonder if this is a sticky) but not in great detail. Axles are rebuilt all at once in a factory. They tear things apart and throw them in one crate for processing. They check the dimensions without really knowing tolerances. The cages and balls are replaced at this time, and again, they do not really check tolerances. This affects the required free play to keep the engine vibrations to be transfered to the car. Why in drive? Because in drive the drivetrain is connected to the engine's torque through the transmission and transmits the engine vibration through the axle to the car. Side to side mount engines do not do this because they rotate around a axis in the drivetrain. On a subaru or anyother for-aft FWD car, the rotation of axis is 90 degrees from the driveshaft so it can not freely shake in a way that it can move freely. Some axles are better then others. Autozone uses the same rebuilder as subaru does for axles that they do not rebuild anymore. They are done in mexico but the do subaru axles aside from other axles. This does not happen in manuals or in neutral.
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Put the cat back, as that is rarely an issue, and will usually result in rattles and a loss of power. You can not clean O2 sensors, you replace them. They are not meant to last forever. The front one is OE the rear can be generic. In the future do only ONE thing at a time as it makes it tough to diagnose. The front one does all the fuel manegment the other checks the cat. Do not do a laundry list of items like listed above, that is just throwing money away. Start with a good tuneup and the O2 sensors. Use OE wires and OE recomended plugs. How old is the timing belt.
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I came close once. It wasnt moving water just drains overcome by the downpour. A chool down the block that i went to as a kid. I kept going and going and then water was over the hood, but the bow wave was keeping it just below the wir intake under the hood. Then the SOB in the freaking blazer decided to go opposing me, I wanted to kill him. Luckily I got through it with the snorkus doing its job, but never again.
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Show-off. Can you mail me one one part at a time?
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Actually there are quite a few that come with them now, and a NHTSA regulation allowing them to be installed on older cars. if you notice the links one of them had the proper documentation needed to get permission to get it done. Pick up trucks and 2 passenger vehicals have them. Quite a few other cars have them too http://www.nhtsa.gov/cars/rules/rulings/airbagqa.html
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http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=79415&highlight=Master+Cylinder+recall Use the search! It has nothing to do with power brake booster., but the master cylinder itself and only for 99 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?searchid=1174186 I know a few that have replace the barke booster to only have the issue return in a year. YOu can flush the brakes (which shold have been done anyway as a maint item)
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There comes a point that no matter how much self control you exercise you snap.. http://www.autoblog.com/2011/01/11/marchionne-jeep-is-finally-getting-a-pickup-kinda/
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Just pulled up the wiring digram (what a pain). The switches are simple pressure switches. There is a resistor is across the switch for the self test. Afterr much research look here http://www.airbagonoff.com/ This may be yout best bet. There is a form you need to fill out to get Gov't permission to do it http://www.electronix.com/universal-passenger-airbag-disable-switch-p-20433.html This is a lotus site just to show you how it is installed http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f3/installed-passenger-airbag-disable-switch-96134/ I did find one humorus but serious site on how to disbale the airbags "for racers" by setting them off! DO NOT DO THIS KIDS! http://www.ehow.com/how_7611625_disable-airbags.html
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I would ask a couple of dealers first, and ask subaru of america itself they are good at answering emails. I have a solution, but I would rather wait for other sources to answer. I would use a double pole single throw relay in the wire going to the seat sensor. If it does not have one I am out of ideas. I would wire it to disconnect bothe leads to the connector. This should reproduce the same thing as someone sitting in the seat. I would put a switch in an obvious place and a BRIGHT light in your line of vision or your line and the passengers line of site.
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You can replace the booster but the same thing may happen. It is not a Master Cylinder issue. Others cars do this too. Cars are not perfect in winter, whihc is something people forget. the easy solution is tell everyone who drive the car in below freezing weather to pump the brakes three times hard to brake the seal. After that it wont happen untill the car engine cools down again, which actually takes a while. Modern cars are air tight, which is why they are quiter, this is also why Ac comes on the defrosters. one of the few air leaks, which is needed for the operation, is the power brake booster.
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*drool* I don't like the way the big (I dont even know what to call them anymore) 4wds are getting lush. It almost defeats the purpose. They really should offer stripped down model.
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That sounds like a HG to me, as the only place for pressurized oil to be up there is the oil press switch. CLean it start it and drive for an hour or so then check. if not enough time check every day. Take pictures of before cleaning after cleaning and then when the oil starts to appera again before it puddles.
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make your 360 unsiezeable
nipper replied to 2stroketurbo's topic in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
In coatings or anything else, people think if a little is good, more is better. In coatings going to a higher temp or a longer scintering time can actually damage the coating. How did you determin the that parts reached thier required temps? I have worked with coatings many years, and they can be really finicky about temps and times. that is why these thigs are done in calibrated enviormentle ovens that keep a constant heat with zero temp swing. Before anyopne gets any crazy ideas, the coating will fail on any higher compression due to higher piston temps. Modern engines use vaporized oil to cool the pistons, so they get rather hot. Will be interesting to see how long this solves the problem for. I have a feeling it will not last as a real fix, but then again on a pleasure car it may not need to. On a dialy driver I would kepp the AAA card handy. "race engines have shown piston life imporved over two to three times normal". A race engine is torn down between races, so I can not reley comment on that as I do not have enough expierience in that area. I will keep an open mind. For anyone else, this is used in quite a few places. if the part has a gray sort of primer looking surface, that is from this. -
make your 360 unsiezeable
nipper replied to 2stroketurbo's topic in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
How did you meaasure it and how did you clean it. We shot peened them.