nipper

There is a such a thing as "too much information" Look at a Haynes manual, that makes a pretty good translator from OE speak to Anyone else speak. Hell I get lost in the OE manuals, especially schematics for subaru as I find them tougher to read, especial a digital copy.

Just an FYI every 105,000 miles or every 8-9 years you need a timing belt and all the associated goodies.

Subaru 1997 Fuelpumps. Ask the seller for express shipping. I would NOT trust a chineese anything in a car, period.

Look here first http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/pdf/transmission/4eat.pdf Codes will be in the manaul, handshake not required. besides Subarus don't have hands

Yes. Spend twice the money and get a name brand, as these non-brands are usually Chineese. 360326327696 130466486539

Basically the fuel pumps are made by the same that make it for OE, just instead of subaru specific, they may be also for many cars.

Crossover balances the exhaust pulses but can be more omplicated to hang. When you change the cams on these engines, then you can upgrade the exhaust system to take advantage of it, but I would go with single pipe.

The only thing that may get upset is the cat, and that is if it is a constant missfire. Check to see if there is oil on the spark plug boots, if so the bucket seals (from subaru only) will have to be replaced as that oil cause a missfire as it destroys the wires. How many miles and when was the last tuneup?

OK. Watch the shipping on Rock auto, as it can be more then the part. Look at other sources, as it can be a faiirly generic part.

Rear main 99.9% of the time never leaks, do not mess with it, you will be sorry and get very good at pulling the engine.

Some pumps are very quiet. Put your hand on the fuel pump cover and see if you can feel a vibration. The mount is the side with all the wires. Since you say it starts, just wont respond, I am discounting the fuel pump (they are fairly robust and make noise bfore they fail). My money is on the fuel pressure regulator is shot, as that controls the fuel pressure vs engine load.

Define "new"

The engines are all the same in all countries, not sure about the 2.0. www.cars101.com will tell you about the engines, but it is safe to assume after 1995 they all are (even if they arent) I thikn the 2.2 was starting 1996. I think the early 1995 plus were built in the US using engines and transmissions from Japan. I don't know if they still do, but that is why they are all the same.

I blew a headlight. I like silverstars by Sylvania. Now they have a silverstar extra. Personally I think they kick but, a bit pricey, look for them ont the net. The cops here are failed equip ungry as even fixed you still get hit with a 15.00 processing fee. I have had them in for four days and three times i got flashed as if my highbeams are on (they werent) So they kick rump roast, but I have to wait now for a thaw to check the alighnment. the last time I checked they were fine. I do love them at night.

Welcome. Sounds like one problem is the resistor that softens shifts may be open. It is under the battery I do beleive, but I may be wrong. The manual will tell you where it is. How to pull codes http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81497&highlight=Transmission+codes But if i had to gues, it sounds like it may be the MAP sensor or the throttle postion sensor as they both help the tranny know when to shift. Subarus shift hard naturally, especially the 1-2 shift, thats why the trannies last the life of the car.

Then i am going with the Engine Temp sensor, though i really really do no believe in cleaning O2 sensors, I think that is the issue, but a CTS is much cheaper. Since I do not have the car in my driveway I cant tell. NO I change my mind, lets replace the front O2 sensor. They wont always throw a code if they are getting sluggish. Have you put a scanner on this to make sure it is going from open loop to closed loop?

Aproxamitly? You do the gallons purchased divded into the miles driven. We havent mentioned the obvious, my fault. Tire condition and pressure? WHat has the air temp been?

I still cant find my leggo book Everyone is shooting at flies here. Everything grounds through the tank. The light reacts much quicker then the gauge does (pump has its own circuit). The light operates by sensing the tmep of the fuel around it, in theory the fuel is colder then the air in the tank 11 months out of 12. The colder it is outside and the longer it is cold, the less acurate the light is, the inverse in summer. The sensro is a thermister so it is not just as easy as putting a ohm gaunbe on it. BTW OHM meters may be inacurate, but they are good enough for 98% of the people that use them as there is a relativly high tolerance built inot non-military specs. I would just put a jumper from the tank itself (sealed of course) to a ground and start there.

Do another highway run (pure highway) and a purely mathmatical MPG figure. Try to stay around 60-65 (over 70 the MPG really takes a dump) and let us know what you come back with. At 18mpg on the highway, you should be getting like 10 around town. You would be seeing CEL lights and smelling rotten eggs or unburnt fuel etc Since you have plenty of power I am going to discount the collapsed exhaust pipe. Hrmmm ......................... How old is your clutch?

With what?

I dont know where you are from, but it is 105,000 miles in the US. 60,000 miles is reasonable for the fronts, the rears can go twice that unless you always carry a load or tow a lot. DO NOT ask them for a definition, let them show you and ignore what they tell you. Make up your mind, a reasonble person can see when there is alot of pad left ot too little left. Actually screw it go to another shop. Non dealer.

Anytime you have zero brakes there is a danger. It is considered zero by some when they get down to the audible warning. Others consider it zero when the rotors get chewed up. Ask the delaership/shop to show you your brakes on the car to help you decide. The sooner you replace the pads less likely to damage the rotors. We all know "next week" turns into "next month" ...

Thermostat?

The spark plug bucket gaskets should be replaced with OR parts when the valve cover gaskets are replaced, just an FYI. Have you done the water spray test? Check or temporarily run a ground from near the coil pack to the battery as sometimes a bad ground may do this.

CHnage the PCV valve. You may feel it is unaceeptable, but it is well within limits. Realize you are not BURNING oil, you are consuming oil. In todays engines oil is used to cool the piston skirts and under the pistons. This oil gets vaporized (As it is desgned to do). There are quite a few things that affect this. This is why everyone chould check their oil level once a week. The one thing that really bothers me is the 1999-2000 and i think 2001 with the delayed transmission engagement. Head gaskets i can live with, that i can't as i know all transmission places are con artists, especially since it can be fixed without a total rebuild.