nipper

replace the radiator cap too while you are at it.

Your master cylinder is leaking into the Power Brake booster while the car is running. Check your master cylinder at the piston seal.

What he said, you already have a cold air induction system that wont suck in water, And what he said for everything else.

Newer subarus do not shift hard, older ones do, as i had a 98 and a 97 that does. the 97 has 281,000 miles on the original tranny so i do not worry about it. Everything you described may be fixable by a tuneup and a service. Worn belts would make me wonder if the timing belt was changed, as those belts get changed at the same time. Sunroof is an expensive fix, as stated above. I would walk away from just the sunroof issue, as who knows when the rest of the mechanisim will let go, and a suspicous timing belt.

The torque converter is always locking and unlocking once you are out of 1st gear. this is optimized for max MPG and the damage you can do to your driveline really is not worth the 1/2 mpg you will gain. You will get besides before you do any mod you have to find out why you have a fault light. Did you ever think that the trouble light can be telling you the fault is keeping your TC from locking up like it should? When was the last time the fluid was changed, as that can affect it, as well as a few other sensors. There realy is no lockup mod for subarus because of the way it works, but as i say, your car your money.

I get the box of paper rags from Bi's. Cloth @nds here (shop rags) are pricey and going up, as everything else will be shortly. Got to get tires for the justy sooner then later before they go up too.

i keep forgetting about those gaskets... i can be a dope at times.

Ah okay. Well this goes under the heading ... you can't busticate it any more then it already is. I am going with a crack of some kind as even most HG failures will not loose water that quickly, but a crack of some kind will. A recent overheat and a seized waterpump, I wouldnt even bother with a daignoses and just start with a used engine.

This is no blown HG, this is more like a non-existant HG. Usually what happens (and I havent heard of it happening in ages) is putting cold water in an overheated raditor (if you can remove the cap without the 3rd degree burns) and splitting the radiator. Everything is usually so hot that it just becomes steam. It sounds like to me ... and just a guess here. The #1 cylinder hydrolocked with such force it may have stripped the threads for a head bolt. It would fit the external leak, the sudden filling, the ocasional coolant in oil.

I would change the fluid. I got a car like that that wasnt exactly parked. It was driven once in a while around the block to give it a run. hehehe It had a bad shimmey in the front the seller said "gee that is new" (unloved car great price). Got it home. It never ceases to amaze me how bad something can be and still sort of operate. Left front brake was basically a huge mass of metal. No telling where the rotor began and the caliper bracket ended. the "operating" brake had left an imprint where the pads were. Sometimes you luck out, sometimes you don't. Also do a quick onceover on all teh rubber parts to make sure they are all good.

The fuel tank tank access cover is under the floor behind the rear seat. you wont be hurting anything as it is desned to be serviced, just dont loose any bolts as they are tiny.

Install a volt meter, and maybe a amp meter.

And each car make has their own tips and tricks. I sdometimes blindly ask people when was thier last oil change (it is a game i have i steer the converstaion that way) and it is surprsing how many times i hear, "when I remeber to do it"

Where did you get the thermostat from. Was the car due for a water pump change? Have you replaced the radiator cap yet (not check it out but replace it) Did you properly fill the cooling system?

What is everything you have done and how many miles.

Happy people never complain, and there are more happier people then *itchy ones.

Its a frozen caliper. You will need new pds as these may be glazed. You need to remove the calipers (do both sides the same way). Clean the sliders and lubricate them with brake grease.

or when the cop pulls us over :-\

NSS is called an inhibitor swich and located on the side of the transmission. This is the switch to check. It has a harness coming off it as it tells the puters what gear the car is in.

That alt voltage is meaningless. Get the engine up to 1800 rpm. Since you have an issue we will do this a little differently then usual. The goal is to have EVERYTING on in the car and have someone read the voltages. STart with the Stereo, then record the voltage, then the blower, then the AC compressor, the rear defroster, the wipers on high, then the lights, parking first, then headlights last. Normal test is to get everything on rev the engine to 1800 rpm and look at the output. It sounds like a borderline alt to me.

!- bad bead sela or porous wheels. A shop can test this in a water bath, it is a common issue with these kinds of wheels with all mfg's. i have it too and it is annoying. Some shops have a few tricks to try. 2-Why not wait and make your tranny last longer. It is most likely your rear tranny mount. 3- Heater cores work greta and are almost bulitproof in these cars. The drain to your HVAC may be clogged. Unclog it. Spray it with lysol via the air intake under the hood and run the HVAC through all the selections. This is just plain old mildew. Nothing to get excited about here.

WHy do you want to stop the fuel pump?

Ok thats one thing off the list. Another no money fix so to speak. Run a new ground from the coils to the car. Sometimes a bad ground can make things flaky

There is open loop and closed loop. Open loop is used till the engine warms up. in open loop the car operates on pre-programed settings. Once the car is warm it switches to closed loop where all the sensors talk to the ECU and the ECU controls everything in real time.

Some errors herer which are part of the issue or will be soon. Plug wires should be OE, the better quality makes a huge difference. the price vs how long they last make them very cheap. Is there any oil in the spark plug holes. If there is that will cause it. In the evening take a spray bottle and spray the wires and the oils with water. Watch for sparklies. If you see any this may be the cause of your problem.