nipper

Define "pullies"

I'm on the opposit end. Replacements are hard to move by hand. At that mileage, since you can do your own work, get them off ebay and replace them.

WD 40 is not what you want. You want some liquid wrench, and let it soak, then re apply, then soak, then try.

He may have put some stress on the parking pawl, but I doubt any damage was done.

Not for the 20 feet to move the car.

No damage to engine. That is where you look when you have checked everything else. Nothing left after that.

the seal is leaking due to engine vacume. It is leaking into the booster and the engine is burning it. You never rebuild a MC you just replace it.

YAY we love simple issues. Still replace the cap just because. Get one at parts store unless the dealers is cheap.

Google it and find out.

A tail wind, a sail, going down a steep mountain all help with performance. If you want to remove the engine and and make a hot engine, then the sky and your wallet are the limits. There is quite a lot out there for the 2.22, as the 2.5 is built (DOHC) right to the edge of the power they can support.

replace the radiator cap too while you are at it.

Your master cylinder is leaking into the Power Brake booster while the car is running. Check your master cylinder at the piston seal.

What he said, you already have a cold air induction system that wont suck in water, And what he said for everything else.

Newer subarus do not shift hard, older ones do, as i had a 98 and a 97 that does. the 97 has 281,000 miles on the original tranny so i do not worry about it. Everything you described may be fixable by a tuneup and a service. Worn belts would make me wonder if the timing belt was changed, as those belts get changed at the same time. Sunroof is an expensive fix, as stated above. I would walk away from just the sunroof issue, as who knows when the rest of the mechanisim will let go, and a suspicous timing belt.

The torque converter is always locking and unlocking once you are out of 1st gear. this is optimized for max MPG and the damage you can do to your driveline really is not worth the 1/2 mpg you will gain. You will get besides before you do any mod you have to find out why you have a fault light. Did you ever think that the trouble light can be telling you the fault is keeping your TC from locking up like it should? When was the last time the fluid was changed, as that can affect it, as well as a few other sensors. There realy is no lockup mod for subarus because of the way it works, but as i say, your car your money.

I get the box of paper rags from Bi's. Cloth @nds here (shop rags) are pricey and going up, as everything else will be shortly. Got to get tires for the justy sooner then later before they go up too.

i keep forgetting about those gaskets... i can be a dope at times.

Ah okay. Well this goes under the heading ... you can't busticate it any more then it already is. I am going with a crack of some kind as even most HG failures will not loose water that quickly, but a crack of some kind will. A recent overheat and a seized waterpump, I wouldnt even bother with a daignoses and just start with a used engine.

This is no blown HG, this is more like a non-existant HG. Usually what happens (and I havent heard of it happening in ages) is putting cold water in an overheated raditor (if you can remove the cap without the 3rd degree burns) and splitting the radiator. Everything is usually so hot that it just becomes steam. It sounds like to me ... and just a guess here. The #1 cylinder hydrolocked with such force it may have stripped the threads for a head bolt. It would fit the external leak, the sudden filling, the ocasional coolant in oil.

I would change the fluid. I got a car like that that wasnt exactly parked. It was driven once in a while around the block to give it a run. hehehe It had a bad shimmey in the front the seller said "gee that is new" (unloved car great price). Got it home. It never ceases to amaze me how bad something can be and still sort of operate. Left front brake was basically a huge mass of metal. No telling where the rotor began and the caliper bracket ended. the "operating" brake had left an imprint where the pads were. Sometimes you luck out, sometimes you don't. Also do a quick onceover on all teh rubber parts to make sure they are all good.

The fuel tank tank access cover is under the floor behind the rear seat. you wont be hurting anything as it is desned to be serviced, just dont loose any bolts as they are tiny.

Install a volt meter, and maybe a amp meter.

And each car make has their own tips and tricks. I sdometimes blindly ask people when was thier last oil change (it is a game i have i steer the converstaion that way) and it is surprsing how many times i hear, "when I remeber to do it"

Where did you get the thermostat from. Was the car due for a water pump change? Have you replaced the radiator cap yet (not check it out but replace it) Did you properly fill the cooling system?

What is everything you have done and how many miles.