nipper

One other mantra on awd ALL TIRES MUST MATCH!

I think dodge Neons along with quite a few others are far more effecient at overheating then subarus are. You NEVER keep driving in an overheat unless you are in a dangerous place to pull over, then you keep going. A car is cheaper then a human...though i know a few who may not be worth that much

NO. I know quite a few 2.5 that are just running fine with the original HG thank you. you do not pverheat aluminum engines as a rule. you may get away with it once, but if you cook the engine you will warp the heads and cook the oil. Running low on oil on modern engines is a bad idea as they do not have large pans anymore. SUbarus tend to get very unhappy if down more then 1 qt and even 1 qt is pushing it. nipper

Seized caliper is letting your pads thunk.

What kind of axle was used?

Check your brakes again, it could be a rubbing backing plate. Spray rubber parts with wd 40 and see if the noise goes away to rule out bushings.

Really need to get him finished the next two weeks Check list Finish power door locks Finish alarm (yes an insurance break and operates doors) finish cruise control (low priority) May do timing belt myself, may be more effecient to farm it out then set the carb and timing Have an exhaust system built Tires Low priority Fuel sender, it works but full is 1/4 of tank Roof paint Window Tint (no ac) Would LOVE a subaru weatherband cd player, just watching ebay for it. He is getting close, better be with 4.15 gas.

http://www.autoblog.com/2011/04/28/subaru-predicts-50-sales-hike-for-2012-impreza/ Photos http://www.autoblog.com/photos/2012-subaru-impreza-new-york-2011/full/#4074495 Larger and more main stream

There is this word that comes to mind.... it strikes pure horror in some people. other people just look in awe, others wish it could be them, and yet others are non-plused by the word. Live not in fear, as it can be comforting ... NORMAL! 20-25 In Hg is normal for a healthy engine at idle.

And I am om a blackberry with a small screen. Either tell me what it is doong or ill answer it tomorrow when I can see it.

still did not answer the question, what was the reading and no it wont cause too high a reading.

Lets back up a bit. You can only get as much vacume as there is barometric reading, but thats almost impossible on an engine at idle. http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/vac/uum.htm Now what is "too high" and at what condition. And no the PB system can not make you read too much vacume.

No idea if this belongs here, but it is on a 89 Justy .... There is not a lot of glass on this thing. i will not be doing the tailgate, just the sides. Should I tackle this myself or just pay someone to do it.

Ouch. Thats what usually gets you, not the mechanicals themselves but things that are made of plastic or rubber.

There is a group called subaruvanagon on yahoo. They have a wealth of information in the group files. Tread lightly when you post there as they can get really snobish (read pita) if you talk about anything else besides conversions. I would dig into the files first befor asking them a question.

Clean the plug to the wiper. I had this on the justy and it was a poor ground from the motor to the car body. This happening when it is cold more then hot tells me that it could be the contacts in the wiper motor are worn. Contacts shrink in the cold and expand when warmer.

ON a subaru 99% of the time an ABS light is just a bad wheel sensor or tone ring. The sensor has to be a perfect cylinder shape. They can erode and that will throw a code too.

Ask and ye shall receive

If you have one. Under the hood, passenger side, near the firewall is where it usually is.

Never said they dont have skirts, just that are extreemly short as are most modern engines compared with older pistons. And another cause http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypereutectic_piston

Rod knocks are sort of always there. Are you the original owner?

Excessive piston slap is not always harmless. What is happening is that the piston skirt is knocking aournd in the sylinder walls (short explination), Usually it goes away in a 5-10 minutes depending upon how cold it is outside.'Slap lasting longer then that may be scoring the pistons and the cylinder walls. But the question is is it lifters pumping up just (an FYI example), a connecting rod bearing, wrist pins, carboned psiton rings or actual slap. The wrist pin or small end or gudgeon pin knock is very distinctive. It is a double knock in time with revs. It may or may not go away as the engine warms up. A bad lifter makes a single knock in time with revs. I would use seafoam first and see if it is a carbon issue. Time how long the noise lasts and what the temp is outside. Another FYI I wold check (and make sue) the idlers are replaced with the timing belt, but since GD did the belt, I am sure they were. A tensioner can sound like slap too.

How many miles. Usually the 2.5 have it more then the 2.2. Sometimes playing with different oils helps. PS that lsats this lonmg is not a good thing.

What they all said

I wont be able to donate till July as that is a spare cash month for me.