nipper

These are (realtivly) cheap gauges, so they not mounted on a free standing pin. You need a specisl tool to remove and reinstall a needle ((and a gentle touch). ALso you need some sort of calibration comaprison. Just easier to replace things

GD, But where does the mustard go ?

The clusters in these cars are amazingly simple to take out and take apart. Inside they are all modular. There are everal plug in harnesses. There will be one small but tough one in the center(ish) of the cluster which is for the spedo, otherwise everything else is obvious.

The wheel bearing and it is probably chewing up the hub too. Do not drive this untill it is fixed, as from this point on it will just cost more to fix.

Best to do it in the fall past peak tourist ($$) season. Also not all of us have AC The justy should be on the road in a few weeks

Tire cupping, the most likely issue on a car with 100K on it is a bad strut. Wheel alignment will not cause this issue. What is happening is that the tire is bouncing up and down on the road. This can not be seen as it is just chainging the load on the tire. Random cupping will be a strut. Cupping in the same spots will be a wheel balance issue. This is easy enough to diagnose as only a few things cause it. A bad wheel bearing will not. Make sure the tries are mounted in the proper direction. This sounds silly b ut most tires are directional now. Cheap tires can cause it too.

Some soobys have cold start issues and emissions issues that are fixed by a reflash. Not a biggy.

Thats great, i get 19 - 21. I think we have more stop signs per square mile then a stopsign factory.

I will say this then take my ;eave as these posts are confusing. There is no such thing as doing half a rebuild on a auto tranny. You have hard parts damage. Torque bind can either lock up the driveline or "go away" because the clutches are glazed. rebuilding an auto is different from a manual, however as I always say, it is your money.

ALWAYS replace one part at a time, if that does not solve the issue, put the original part back on, otherwise it can make it impossible to diagnose properly. Go back and unplug then plug all the connectors in again. Do you have the VSS operating properly and the MAP sensor working?

Cross your fingers you are blessed. The lockups sound like everytime the car wanted to shift, there was not enough fluid to sequence everything. When two gears are engaged at the same time clunk and lockup occures and the car will not move. Check linkages. but..... If nothing wrong linkage wise and no reverse tranny is busticated.

Moderate gas pedal allowing the transmission to upshift quickly, otherwise realise it is an AWD car and will have good to rotten around town mpg depending on how many stop signs there are..... like here

Depends if it is a manual or auto on what happens when it goes poof. Gegerally differentials whine before they fail or clunk whne cainging direction. On a LSD missmatched tires will make it fail, on a sooby all 4 tires have to match. More then that search.

HOw long since the cam seals been replaced

I did say rare not never, and a 93 is a different beats then a 98. I will stick by my statement and am still curios about the inhibitor switch.

Have any freinds? Have someone move the wheel back and forth while you listen for the noise. Jack up the car and wiggle a wheel back and forth to see if you hear the noise. Usually subaru racks fail by leaking, not by mechanical failure.

The brown dust is normal on an older subaru clutch. Why did you not go to the very first thing to check and not the very last. KISS (keep it simple -----) You are low on refrigerant, as you have a leak someplace. The AC has two pressure switches, one low and one high. They both have to see normal pressures to operate. You have low refirgerant. The refrigerant is liquid at first, as it gets hotter it expands and will not become liquid again due to a lack of refrigerant. If it was a clutch issue they usually don't engage at all. The fact your does (especially for 20 minutes) says it is fine.

Im still leaning towards the inhibitor switch as it is rare for the ignition switch to go bad. Find the pins on the inhibitor switch thsat are there for the starter circuit and jump thme to see what it does

I am going with it being related, but we all agree the evap is a fluke.

Catalyst can be reading unburnt fuel or incomplet combustion and will throw a code as it can not correct the issue. Do not rely on marks on belts as they may mean nothing.

Synchros like some drag. I did not see that you were using synthetic.

If the cam and crank sensors do not synch the way the puter thinks they should it will throw those codes sometimes. It will throw them for a big TB jump. Timing chains and belts if tired will usually jump under sudden unloading, like chainging throttle position dramatically or shutting the car off. Dont try to start it anymore as you have jumped more then a tooth.

Oil passages run from bearings to bearings and dont really run dry. In a few cranks of the starter before the car runs it will fill the passages. And a drainback valve isn't really needed on sooby engines, but nice to have. For the record i use Mobil One filters.

Finally someone who makes sense! Never go by the belt marks, go by the timing notches.

There is nothing wrong with taking things apart for the heck of it. You may see something obvious right off the bat. An AC compressor rebuild may be hard to comebuy. You may need hardparts and not the gaskets and seals. For now do an autopsy.