nipper

Happy people never complain, and there are more happier people then *itchy ones.

Its a frozen caliper. You will need new pds as these may be glazed. You need to remove the calipers (do both sides the same way). Clean the sliders and lubricate them with brake grease.

or when the cop pulls us over :-\

NSS is called an inhibitor swich and located on the side of the transmission. This is the switch to check. It has a harness coming off it as it tells the puters what gear the car is in.

That alt voltage is meaningless. Get the engine up to 1800 rpm. Since you have an issue we will do this a little differently then usual. The goal is to have EVERYTING on in the car and have someone read the voltages. STart with the Stereo, then record the voltage, then the blower, then the AC compressor, the rear defroster, the wipers on high, then the lights, parking first, then headlights last. Normal test is to get everything on rev the engine to 1800 rpm and look at the output. It sounds like a borderline alt to me.

!- bad bead sela or porous wheels. A shop can test this in a water bath, it is a common issue with these kinds of wheels with all mfg's. i have it too and it is annoying. Some shops have a few tricks to try. 2-Why not wait and make your tranny last longer. It is most likely your rear tranny mount. 3- Heater cores work greta and are almost bulitproof in these cars. The drain to your HVAC may be clogged. Unclog it. Spray it with lysol via the air intake under the hood and run the HVAC through all the selections. This is just plain old mildew. Nothing to get excited about here.

WHy do you want to stop the fuel pump?

Ok thats one thing off the list. Another no money fix so to speak. Run a new ground from the coils to the car. Sometimes a bad ground can make things flaky

There is open loop and closed loop. Open loop is used till the engine warms up. in open loop the car operates on pre-programed settings. Once the car is warm it switches to closed loop where all the sensors talk to the ECU and the ECU controls everything in real time.

Some errors herer which are part of the issue or will be soon. Plug wires should be OE, the better quality makes a huge difference. the price vs how long they last make them very cheap. Is there any oil in the spark plug holes. If there is that will cause it. In the evening take a spray bottle and spray the wires and the oils with water. Watch for sparklies. If you see any this may be the cause of your problem.

Generally anytime you work on a car ALWAYS roll down a window

Yes you can have issues without thoring a code if it is still working but just getting lazy. It is almost sounding like it is flooding when cold. Where did you soure parts from. You may have to get a good scan tool for the day and read it and freeze the data when it does it to see what is going on.

Cant be as bad as some of them that say "replace crankshaft"

This leads back to the old observation, if it was fine before the work was done, and now it is not, it is the work taht was done that is suspect. The true test is go out and buy a 19.00 vacum gauge and put it on the car and see what it is reading. http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/vac/uum.htm Just telling someone to replace a part (which BTW is prbbly old enough to be replaced) without checking the original work is foolish. Cam to crank ratios are 2 to 1, so it is very possible to have one of the three cogs off and the car run where it seems to be running well, but if it dumped the mpg it is not running well.

The fix for steering wheel shake in 2011, this can not be cheap for subaru. http://pipecluboflondon.com/Subaru_Outback/SubaruTSB06-48-10R.pdf

4. inspected pan and saw a dent it took a really hard hit of some kind. this car was not loved. i wonder what else is broken.

And here i was trying to be nice...

There has been more then one that has gone down this path before. Hopefully it is just a fuseable link since the battery was weak.

With that kind of mileage on that engine, i would not put any more money into it. The failed headgasket may be ebcasue of an issue on the block and not the head. i would just find another used engine.

If ypou can get a hand on a FSM from the net you can find it. You just have to trace down where the connector is. Usually these things are in the center of gravity of the car, inder the console usually, but I can be wrong. I don't have a imp FSM on my hardrive, so there should be one out there someplace.

Yes.

This is how i got my justy. Bring a can of gas. Expect the car not to idle (if it does that is great). I had to drain out all the gas and rebuild my carb. The motor oil may have gone back to the original dinosaurs and plants it came from. The justy had the most putrid gas i have ever smelled in my life. I siphoned it out, replaced the fuel filter (twice) added a bottle of fuel conditioner, replaced the carb and that was good. I had to replace the front calipers and rotors since they were fused together. It was amazing that the car moved at all. I rebuilt the rear brakes just due to age. I added fresh radiator fluid then all was good. I was surprised from him sitting for so long there were no other issues. Pretty much the fuel system will be clogged and the brakes untrustworthy.

The light flashes 16 times to indicate that there was an electrical fault in the previous operation of the car. It is not uncommon to have a wire get crushed when servicing them.

You wont find out anything without driving it. I wonder if the Duty C is flaky too. I suspect this tranny and car were slightly abused.

Head gasket. remove the radiator and flush that out first, as that gunk when it hits the air can clog the Rad. Do a compression test 1st. This will tell you if there is any internal damage. Do a wet and dry test. This will check to see if the piston walls are scored. Heads will have to go to a machine shop to be checked for flatness and have the surface finish restored.