nipper

Another Idea, find the gear shifter/brake pedal override. use that to put the car in neutral and see what happens.

Yes yes and yes. There is a Vehical speed sensor in the spedo head. I bet the CEL is throwing a code. I wonder if the other VSS sensor is operating. In this car since I think it is a cable operated spedo when one VSS fails the other does not power the spedo. Are the gears stripped in the tranny or spedo? This will affect your fuel economy, how much fuel on 300 mile fillup? What is the temp outside? What is the avg speed/cruising speed?

Do you have another key? wigggle the key or play with moving it about slightly, it sounds like a worn key. Also wiggle the gear selector and try the same thing. Do you have AAA

I did not know it came without it

Subarus never have issues.. More Eggnog anyone?

HELL YES! I missed that as posts crossed. You may even be seeing that start to show up a little bit. a grand is on the low side depending upon damage done.

Just go with whatever subaru recomends for the car, anything more really is throwing money away on a subaru, as sometimes they can give the car indigestion. The waist spark ignition can sometimes be touchy about plugs. Dont forget the PCV valve.

I threw a rod at Dehners pass in CA a few years ago, very ugly. PO beleived in once a year oil changes. Blu had 191,000 miles at the time. Hope it all worked out.

Also check the sliders on the calipers to see if that caused the rotor warp.

When in doubt do a tuneup first, then we go on from there

Lets go to basics.. First replace the radiator cap. If that doesnt work go with an OE Thermostat Then inspect the radiator for damage at the cooling fins. have it tested for flow.

I may be feeling my midlife crises coming on. I have to do the math, but I think I am entitled to my one "Converitble" in leu of my "blond bimbo" and may be able to pull it off. I just need to see if I can afford to keep the Justy. If not it will still be Blu and me since Mom has enough problems getting into Blu, would never be able to get into a new Jeep or a new Outback.

Thats an odd mileage for a timing belt. Check to see if all the seals and idlers were done too, if not guess what else you are doing. You win need two NEW throwout bearing clips from subaru. Do not mess with the rear main seal, they almost never leak and it is always the plate.

Cool. i just like to keep my mental database going. well no pun meant cool kind of thing.

Then someplace we have failed you. We simply cant have things making sense in the last minutes of the unofficial i hate window thread time frame. It may be autocycling just to keep itself from freezing over winter. Also some cars do have the compressor come on at startup just to get the lubricant in the coolant to circulate.

Actually I havent see one specd out since the begnining of the OBDII cars. They usually are pricey to make as compared to a cheap liutlle plastic flapper door. Just iout of curiosity I would like to see a few. I also wonder if he may be having a sticking thermostat.

I should have said american (so I will clarify and not change), my mistake. As when i mean older carb'd in the US foregn cars were few and far between. Small engines (anything below a 8) didnt have any real competition till then. Also deisels (up untill the last 2 years) did not have cats, nor carbs, so they do not count either. Everyone knows of someone who has a car/widget/squeeqky that lasts way beyond what the planned life for the car/widget/squeeqky was planned, but for the moist part they were lucky if they got that far. Technically that is not a valid point either, otherwise i would be standing from the tallest rustpile exclaiming how the 1969 Rambler American was the best car ever built! HEY STOP LAUGHING AT ME! *giggle*

i have absolutly no idea what you are talking about, but that has never stopped me before. Cars stopped using "heater valves" ages ago. They now use mixing or blend doors in the HVAC system to control temp and air flow. There is coolant constantly flowing through the heater core. Maybe you can gear your question towards that. By fan I am going to assume you mean your main radiator fan? In winter you may have things run that do not normally run in hot weather unless needed. This is done to keep them from seizing over winter. Ac compressors used to do this on some cars, along with fans etc affected by cold weather.

It wasnt too much of an issue in pre-cat cars, as pre-cat cars were not expected to have engines that lasted too long anyway (60,000 miles was a milestone). Carbs and cats and winter startups with prolonged idle made for a nice warm car.... from the fire of the melting cat.

Turn key and drive is generally a bad idea at 30, very bad at 20, very very bad at 10, and dont complain to us your car has rod knock at zero.

But then it is not the magical Christmas Coal

Im just pluggingin in here to watch. I hhave a justy with a ccvt. I have read the other boards, and this one seems to be whine free.

so THATS why you walk around around your car three times in a counterclockwise direction under a full moon when it is below 30 degrees outsdie? And where is my lump of coal

Like GD said. In the field we call that increase oil consumption "Impending Doom".

Headgasket issue is not caused by outside temps, but that is another thread. Modern cars if you get in, start the car, put on your seatbelt, throw all the leftover McD's bags in the back seat you are good to go. If it is brutally cold you may want to give the car a minute before going. Drive nicely for the first 15 minutes to allow suspension parts and the transmission to warm up. The engine itself warms up fairly quickly.