nipper

I replaced the handle, license plate light barcket (which the handle mounts too) and all new bolts and screws. Everything was so rusted I couldnt get the lights out. It was about 35.00

Starter contacts.

Just go by the timing marks. Tooth count is useless, as how do you use 0.8, 0.7, 0.5 inch teeth.

Well the (1989 31,000 miles original) Starts and moves under its own power. It is running rich, but with the rebuilt carb the fuel mixture is not adjusted yet. The oddness now is that the cooling fan short cycles all the time. The cooling system is full. The heater puts out hot air at 138 degrees F but it seems like the radiator never really gets hot. I am suspecting (mumble) a stuck thermostat. This would have been so much easier with the carb off. This better not be one of those step one remove carb. That was a bioth to do. I can not figure out the constant fan short cycling. It does it no matter how long the engine has been running. Any thoughts?

i replaced the entire assembly myself. can we see a pic?

IT IS ALIVE ! I started the Justy (with the rebuilt carb). Granted it started at full throttle so I have to address that, but at least it started.

WTF STOP EVERYTHING! What the hell are they replacing for 1620 ?!?!?! Do they have to make a late boat payment? Post a list of "everything" they plan on replacing, as something sounds really fishy.

SHops here in NY run from 85-110 an hour. The highest non dealer price i hhve seen is 110 and thats what they get for reading codes too! My mechanic charges by actual time spent on the job, not book time.

www.northursalia.com/techdocs/pdf/transmission/4eat.pdf enjoy. That is the subaru official description even though it is an austrailian site. It has been translated since it was upside down.

Thhrrrptttt no pity here. Check tire pressures. CHeck the fuel rail hoses to the injectors. Did you replace the plugs? Smell of fuel is usually a leaky hose, most likely to a fuel injector.

Your fine. If it is an exteranl filter change it. If it is an internal filter leave it be as it is only a screen.

A nice shiney Carberator. Thsy had caps on odd ports which screwed me up for over an hour. None of the drawings or manuals refernced this one diaphram, ecept for an itsy bitsy tinsey wiency pic in the FSM showing it capped. i lost all the pictures i tool of the vac hose routing, and the sticker on the hood is useless, but i will figure it out.

It is the heater core, and those fumes are not the best thing to be breathing in. Put a can of Barrs stop leak to see if that stops the leak. It may fix it or boy you some time.

You may be overdue for a timing belt. You have 114,000 miles. It is due at 105,000 miles or 105 months. I would have it changed. Also at the same time you change the front cam seals, main seal, idlers tensioners water pump and thermostat. CHeck your valve covers and spark plug wire ends for oil. You need to wash the bottom of the engine using a engine cleaner and a high pressure wash. Drive the car for a day or three, and look where the leak is coming from. on a subaru it is hard to see the source of leaks. The speration plate may be the source. Then the engine has to come out. If that is the source, then have the plugs, vlave cover gaskets replaced too. They are MUCH easier out of the car.

HIgh pitched noise is most likely the Airbox (where the filter is ) is not seated properly. How many miles and when was the iming belt last replaced. Replace the PCV valve as that will take pressure off the seals. Seperator plate is a good possability as these cars almost never have a bad rear seal.

98 does not have a cable. I am going with either theclutch or Master and Slave cylinders. (replace them as a pair). 06 on the clutch is almost 5 years, so a bit soon for it but you never know.

Er um, no. The only time the fuse works is when the car is on. Also there are still spinning parts in the tail shaft of the transmission, where if the tow is long enough can cause the fluid to get hot.

Actually it will, and it is also an expnsive fine, awarded to the person who witnesses it. CFCs in the atmosphere Chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) were invented by Thomas Midgley, Jr. in the 1920s. They were used in air conditioning/cooling units, as aerosol spray propellants prior to the 1980s, and in the cleaning processes of delicate electronic equipment. They also occur as by-products of some chemical processes. No significant natural sources have ever been identified for these compounds — their presence in the atmosphere is due almost entirely to human manufacture. As mentioned in the ozone cycle overview above, when such ozone-depleting chemicals reach the stratosphere, they are dissociated by ultraviolet light to release chlorine atoms. The chlorine atoms act as a catalyst, and each can break down tens of thousands of ozone molecules before being removed from the stratosphere. Given the longevity of CFC molecules, recovery times are measured in decades. It is calculated that a CFC molecule takes an average of 15 years to go from the ground level up to the upper atmosphere, and it can stay there for about a century, destroying up to one hundred thousand ozone molecules during that time.[

Roof mounted?

Well lets make sure. Take chaulk or tape etc. Run the mark on all four tires 90 degrees from the ground (Across the sidewall) to the ground. Using one tire as a reference travel (push is better, more control and no bind) the car so that one tire makes three full revolutions. Have a friend let you know when the tire has done this. Now look at all four tires. They should all end up where they started. If they do not you have one tire more worn then the others.

Is this binding in a straight line? Do all your tires match in diameter?

But we may be

But thats not true, you need the AC. Newer cars are air tight, while older cars leaked like a sieve as far as air flow. This is true with most cars (One of the reasons AC became standard, along with everyone ordering it anyway) Without AC in a post 1990 subaru, windows (all of them) will always fog up. Cracking a window doesn't help either. The AC will pretty much keep all the windows defogged, including the rear to a degree. It gets worse with more people in the car, or when the snow on your boots start to melt.

Some cars use an electronic circuit to blink the blinkers. Each bulb acts a reisistor in the circuit. Every resistor removed causes the circuit to go faster. The blink noise is more of a sound effect from a tiny relay then anything else. Others have the older-then-dirt bi-metalic spring. The "spring" is heated by voltage flowing through X number of bulbs. Having a bulb burned out is enough to keep the spring from heating up enough to spring (or make the blink blink noise). And of course when all else failes there is the turning the signal on and off really fast

This does not bode well, but before i become Dr doom... Did you use a Subaru t-stat? If not go get one and install it. replace the radiator cap as it is old enough to be replaced. refill cooling system. remove cap start car slowly pour in coolant with car running stop when full. wait for car to warm up When the water surges out the radiator, that is the T-stat opening. Wait till it settles down and add more coolant put cap on Fill overflow tank take a short drive. let car cool down check fluid levels If needs more coolant repeat. This is the proper way to fill any cooling system. If you still have the same issue, well, we will cover that later.