nipper

Does it seem to come from the seat of your pants (even though you feel it in the steering wheel). How are the wheel bearings. Does it seem to go faster or slower on turns. You are at the mileage where the universals can be suspect. Is it a heavy or annoying vibration? How are the CV joints (boots don't tell the entire story)

I agree with checking all the hoses first. Always look for the common denominator when you have multiple codes.

http://www.procarcare.com/includes/content/resourcecenter/encyclopedia/ch25/25readtirewear.html Any of those?

So no one starts with the simple stuff? Move one tire at a time to the rear and see if it moves. Rule out wheel balance first. Next i would look at is the universal joints since you do not say how many miles are on it.

As long as the lights go off with the car don't worry about it. The voltage issue can be a short in the altenator or a tired battery.

Did you flush the radiator out first? That should be the first step in any head job, otyherwise that gunk will force you to replace the radiator.

H - E - semicolon - semicolon thats a new one You need a press to get them out and in

Hrmm then my next question is was the car ever hit?

I have let the magic smoke out of one 100.00 illumination controller. I wouldnt mind if someone could cough up a controller.

Alos are you driving them in too far?

Well it goes Wrench uman cat, then the tough part, one or two squirrels.

Would 800.00 be enough fro two techs to make their boat payments?

OK i burn but those stupid little lights. Anyone have a LED trick to replace them?

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo It hasnt even be Thanksgiving yet *covers ears* lalalalalalalalalala

In the words of Click and Clack, when was the accident.

The gasket has four holes, maybe it is for thermal expansion. i also found a few other things that were in "the valley of the lost"

You use a calibrated mamal? If you need that extra 5 lbs you send out for pizza

Not using a torque wrench is fine, as for most things I do not either. But If you are having repeated failures, it is time to make sure everything is correct and use a torque wrench.

Except he was NOT complaining about the car running poorly, loss of power, noisy valves or from a rough idle. GD you are not the only one who has rebuilt heads due to valves out of adjustment thank you, I have done quite a few of them. When somone comes in with a minor complaint and has his check book raped that is an entirely different story. He went in for what he considered a minor leak. The shop has shown its utter lack of skills by not wanting to do an oil change when changing the oil filter. Hell I even doubt they did a proper diagnostics on the valves except for the ol "while we are there" we can charge you another 400.00 dollars. Sometimes the While we are there is justifed, sometimes it is not, in this case I do not beleive it is. Personally I think they just saw easy pray and at worse they are lazy. Even if I beleived them I would not them do the work. It mat be a leaking oil filter... and it does not take two techs 20 minutes to diagnose a leaking valve cover. The first thing that should have been done if the leak was not obvious, was wash the under car and tell the customer to stop by the next day or so. This was not done. Like I said, get another opinion.

The nice thing about a diff when ti just starts making a whine (gets louder with speed), it is a very long hose to be hosed with, but never the less it is dying and needs replacement

I would actually try some stop leak for gaskets. Sometimes with these types of gaskets it does wonders. 10.00 vs 800.00 and it wont hurt anything. Also get a price from an independent shop.

Well good luck, i'll drop out of this thread.

Shock from 3 to 4th 1) Control module 2) Throttle position sensor 3) 2-4 brake duty solenoid 4) ATF temperature sensor 5) Line pressure duty solenoid 6) Control valve 7) 2-4 brake timing solenoid 8) 2-4 brake 9) ATF deterioration 10) Engine performance 11) Low clutch timing solenoid 12) Low clutch Shock occurs when accelerator pedal is released at medium speeds. 1) Control module 2) Throttle position sensor 3) ATF temperature sensor 4) Line pressure duty solenoid 5) Control valve 6) Lock-up damper 7) Engine performance 8) 2-4 brake duty solenoid 9) 2-4 brake timing solenoid 10) Low clutch timing solenoid Shift characteristics are erroneous. 1) Inhibitor switch 2) Control module 3) Vehicle speed sensor 1 (Front) 4) Vehicle speed sensor 2 (Rear) 5) Throttle position sensor 6) Control valve 7) Ground earth Now lets start with the cheap stuff. Run a new ground from the transmission to the chasis or battery (hey its cheap) Next disconnect the battery for ten minutes and take it for a drive.

That i need too.

800.00 vs 2000 dollars Just change it when in doubt. It is every 105000 miles. You can not just look at it and tell .