nipper

OK i burn but those stupid little lights. Anyone have a LED trick to replace them?

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo It hasnt even be Thanksgiving yet *covers ears* lalalalalalalalalala

In the words of Click and Clack, when was the accident.

The gasket has four holes, maybe it is for thermal expansion. i also found a few other things that were in "the valley of the lost"

You use a calibrated mamal? If you need that extra 5 lbs you send out for pizza

Not using a torque wrench is fine, as for most things I do not either. But If you are having repeated failures, it is time to make sure everything is correct and use a torque wrench.

Except he was NOT complaining about the car running poorly, loss of power, noisy valves or from a rough idle. GD you are not the only one who has rebuilt heads due to valves out of adjustment thank you, I have done quite a few of them. When somone comes in with a minor complaint and has his check book raped that is an entirely different story. He went in for what he considered a minor leak. The shop has shown its utter lack of skills by not wanting to do an oil change when changing the oil filter. Hell I even doubt they did a proper diagnostics on the valves except for the ol "while we are there" we can charge you another 400.00 dollars. Sometimes the While we are there is justifed, sometimes it is not, in this case I do not beleive it is. Personally I think they just saw easy pray and at worse they are lazy. Even if I beleived them I would not them do the work. It mat be a leaking oil filter... and it does not take two techs 20 minutes to diagnose a leaking valve cover. The first thing that should have been done if the leak was not obvious, was wash the under car and tell the customer to stop by the next day or so. This was not done. Like I said, get another opinion.

The nice thing about a diff when ti just starts making a whine (gets louder with speed), it is a very long hose to be hosed with, but never the less it is dying and needs replacement

I would actually try some stop leak for gaskets. Sometimes with these types of gaskets it does wonders. 10.00 vs 800.00 and it wont hurt anything. Also get a price from an independent shop.

Well good luck, i'll drop out of this thread.

Shock from 3 to 4th 1) Control module 2) Throttle position sensor 3) 2-4 brake duty solenoid 4) ATF temperature sensor 5) Line pressure duty solenoid 6) Control valve 7) 2-4 brake timing solenoid 8) 2-4 brake 9) ATF deterioration 10) Engine performance 11) Low clutch timing solenoid 12) Low clutch Shock occurs when accelerator pedal is released at medium speeds. 1) Control module 2) Throttle position sensor 3) ATF temperature sensor 4) Line pressure duty solenoid 5) Control valve 6) Lock-up damper 7) Engine performance 8) 2-4 brake duty solenoid 9) 2-4 brake timing solenoid 10) Low clutch timing solenoid Shift characteristics are erroneous. 1) Inhibitor switch 2) Control module 3) Vehicle speed sensor 1 (Front) 4) Vehicle speed sensor 2 (Rear) 5) Throttle position sensor 6) Control valve 7) Ground earth Now lets start with the cheap stuff. Run a new ground from the transmission to the chasis or battery (hey its cheap) Next disconnect the battery for ten minutes and take it for a drive.

That i need too.

800.00 vs 2000 dollars Just change it when in doubt. It is every 105000 miles. You can not just look at it and tell .

I need a basic so I can look it up in the FSM, what year and how many miles.

FOm Peter pan I'm flying (Flying, flying, flying) Look at me way up high, Suddenly here am I I'm flying. I'm flying (Flying, flying, flying) I can soar I can weave and what's more I'm not even trying High up, and as light as I can be. I must be a sight lovely to see. http://www.autoblog.com/2010/10/28/video-faa-certifies-missionarys-subaru-powered-flying-car/ Or maybe Chitty Chitty Bang Bang fits better?

So did I.

Thats because you only have two bolts. This causes a vacume leak. You can get the bolt in that is closest to the radiator. A mechanics trick - Use a peice of thickl paper or painters tape in the socket, gooey side to the socket. Jam the bolt in the socket, making sure you can get your scket off the bolt. The bolt does not have to be in there tightly. This will hold the bolt in untill you get it in the hole.

Hehehe I guess everyone gives up in that bolt.

Hayes will cover it.

Does the ATF light flash on startup?

Newwer cars have many computers with a very low draw;You may not have all these but here is an example: A body computer (controls everything) The ECU - (s)ubaru The TCU - S The HVAC for auto climate control - S Radio Memory - S Seat memory Auto dimming mirror with either a compass (s) Digital dash - S Digital clock Thats all I can thnk of right now. It is not unusual for the battery to run down parked. Some cars with uber thingies can kill a battery in 4-6 months Some 4-5 months, no matter how good the battery is. It is not unusal for Airport parking garages to have a portable Jumpstart (at a cost) in long term parking. Also You have to watch the battery charge in heavy stop and go, or even stoped when running everything. The Alt doesnt barely keeps up below 1800 RPM. I have seen many expensive cars on the side of the road in stopped traffic jams as they have run down the battery, It is always good to rev the engine to 2000 rpm in stopped traffic (like a road closure). You have running in summer or winter in a subaru TCU ECU Radio (maybe an amp) Fuel Injectors Spark Plugs Gauges A/c compressor Blower motor Maybe wipers Maybe deforster Maybe heated mirrors Mabe heated seats Dimming mirror fuel pump Whatever is plugged into the car. That is quite a load for just 650 RPM.

Nice try but the movement is so little that does not apply. It is just enough to make a clank or a thud. It can also stress the engine mounts and flex the coolant lines

Get a small tirckle charger. it does not have to be very big, almost the kind they use for a motorcycle. IT will keep up with the draw from the computers.

I would start with the bulbs and the contacts. Make gure they are all good and all clean. Swap bulbs from one side to the other and see if it moves. Then I would look at the charginig system

One thing we havent suggested yet. I would look into getting an oil analysis once every 3-4 months for a year. This would really help with the decision making process. I have heard from other sources on collector cars or cars that don't see winter that twice a year is best.