nipper

You would see a picture like this as an ad, with a beutiful blond hanging off the brat, in perfect condition. It would be funny to have a new take on that ad.... The car as it is in the pic above, only with a more "senoir" blond or a drag queen in a blond wig :0 ah yes vicodin good ....

http://www.enginetechnologyinternational.com/downloads/Fuji.pdf http://www.boxerdiesel.com/engineering/en/index.html

Tire rack ships them all the time, so it must be doable... Matching sizes? pairs? Thanks

Anyone have a source for 13 inch tires that do not cost a small fortune? 165/65 180/60 165/70 175/70 155/80 Sears has them new for 29.00 as their base brand. Everyone else starts at 60.00. Used are fine with me too. Somehow the sears tired end up over 150.00 . I need one but if they are cheap enough I will get 4. Nice thing is that it is 2wd so tires can be in pairs. nipper

I cant park near taxi stands or taxi dispatchers as they block the signal. I have to use the key to get in the car, and then either hit the fob or turn the car on and hit the mechanic's switch. nipper

He looks meaner in person, that is if a CVT Justy can be mean. Going to get the windows tinted. He has a nice buzzbomb sound to him, but the cause is the joint under the drivers seat so i need to get that fixed. The charcoal and blue works. Punch list: Replace Carb Service CVT (flush filter) replace a tire (or all 4 if 4 is cheaper then one) Fix sunbacked paint re-re-re-re-re paint tailgate Fix fuel sender Go to a exhaust shop and have something fabricated or fixed. I also need to find a upholstery shop that will fix the split seems on the seats. they are not torn just the stitching is dried out. I don't know if he will be on the road this year as he will NOT see roadsalt. Driving him is weird. The electric clutch, actually acts like a real clutch. You can feel it engeg just the way a clutch pedal would. Not quite sure what the brake switch does yet (prrbly engine braking). Have the car in drive no pedals they same as having the clutch disengaged. Start pressing the go pedal to make the car crawl (it will do this in Ds but not D) it feels like the same throttle/clutch response as having that third pedal. Take your foot off the gas your back in neutralish. Ds is for actually "Drive Slow". It is used in heavy traffic and for going up and down steep hills, It dramatically lower the gear ratios and allows you to beat Mustangs off the line for a good 20-30 feet

The justy got out of the driveway under its own (albeit very rich) power...

Hair drier for ancient pinstripes too?

Usually a shimmy over 60 is a wheel balance issue, and yes it can just happen. Does it go away at 70-75? Rotate the tires to see if it moves.

On a drain and fill flush i went through a case of tranny fluid, so it sounds about right for just draining the pan (I think as I never just drain the pan). One mre thing on the pan, the pan lip must be absolutly flat. Sometimes the lip gets bent by some overly frustrated wrench turners. nipper

I started the Justy today, sadly the exhaust flange still sounds like hell, but it ran! now it needs a carb

You are right, that gauge is reading way too high

YAY i painted. The first one due to the location i really screwed up. The 2nd spot, with a much larger area to work with (door) came out fairly well. Unless the light is just right you cant really tell where the old paint was and the new is! nipper

I got oil pressure on cranking today, thats a big thing, means I can start the Justy now.

I am doing base/clear. In actuality with the Justy being a small car, the body panels are most likely easier to hide the belmishes on then the roof is. The roof does have natural seems (the drip rails) except A pillars. The hatch top has no natural seems, but it bing broken from the roof may not be as scary as the curve of the hatch may help the optical illusin of the blend.

I'm going with the pickup falling off the pump. Is the oil pan dented? That can cause the issue too.

So you dont need to mask the primer either? I have a spot on the rear fender by the door about as long as a dollar bill. i have other minor spots under the hood (not painging the arear under the battery), spots where the underbelly meet the body (not getting painted), same on the other side that has gone through the first level of meatl (no one can see it) will get filled with bondo and painted to treated to protect it) and some other little spots. i did the rear liftgate. There was a natural dividing line by the rear trim. The paint almost matched perfectly (need to use a white primer). After the first clear coat it was soso. After a month i did 2 more coast and it is almost perfect. And i should lever be allowed to use a power buffer. i buffed the paint by hand it i felt much more confident. After i get this done i can slowly move up on the list of larger areas (like the roof).

This catches A LOT of people, even experts sometimes. Your belts off, check it again

Dirvers side CV joint. Stupid dumb lightbulbs which my radio shack does not have. In the justy I can't say as nothing is broken till I try to use it

Not really. As long as you get the valve timing within a tooth you are ok. One way to make toast.. get the timing belt more then a little off, but 180 is fine. Another is to get the cam synchro off and they hit each other. nipper

This is not my forte. I have done the POR-15 thing. I am going to sand and prime. The one spot that could use filler no one can see. How do you blend new paint on top of old paint. The paint all matches. IE you fix a rust spot on the side of the car, now what?

I may have too. The only thing i can't find is the clips that hold the rear trim panel on (Which has the hatch handle). Everything else is a common fastener